Help removing coil from manifold

[slash007]

The wax in one of my bays is not coming out and I assume it's the coil on the manifold. Normally I would justswap it, but I have been unable to remove it. It's a JC system and when I turn the nut on top of the stem, the whole stem turns. You would think that after a few turns the stem would just come out of the block and I could work on getting it out of the black cube, but no matter how many times I turn it, the stem just stays in. Any advice on how to remove it? I don't want to break it out and then not be able to screw in another stem due to possible damage to the manifold. Thanks.

 

[New Washdog]

I'm not familiar with JC, but can you cut the nut off using a die grinder or dremel?

 

[slash007]

It's in a very tight spot, but that's the plan unless someone here has a better idea.

 

[OurTown]

Carefully cut a slot in the top of the stem with a Dremel for a slotted screwdriver to keep it from spinning.

 

[MEP001]

Carefully cut a slot in the top of the stem with a Dremel for a slotted screwdriver to keep it from spinning.

Have you done that, and it's safe to do so without cutting through?

 

[OurTown]

Have you done that, and it's safe to do so without cutting through?

I have done that on a small triple CFA manifold block. All three nuts were stuck and I was able to save all the stems. I don't know how deep other stems can be cut without getting into the hollow part though because it is the only time I did that. Maybe these small CFA valve stems are solid further down than other valve stems.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-30181-replacement-solenoid-valve.aspx

 

[MEP001]

As long as they aren't like the ones D&S uses - theirs are just a tube with the top as thin as the sides.

 

[slash007]

I wondered how deep I would be able to cut and get a good grip still with a screwdriver. I'm thinking using a dremel and cutting it right under the coil then removing what's left of the stem might be safer.

 

[OurTown]

I wondered how deep I would be able to cut and get a good grip still with a screwdriver. I'm thinking using a dremel and cutting it right under the coil then removing what's left of the stem might be safer.

If you have a spare then you might be able to measure how deep the hollow area of the stem is to get an idea of how thick the top is. What kind of valve is it?

 

[MEP001]

I wondered how deep I would be able to cut and get a good grip still with a screwdriver. I'm thinking using a dremel and cutting it right under the coil then removing what's left of the stem might be safer.

Maybe just cut the nut in half.

 

[Randy]

This is one of the prime reasons we don't use the manifold blocks. We build our manifolds using KIP solenoid valves.

 

[Earl Weiss]

With Manifold blocks I sometimes remove the coil on both sides of the one I need to remove. Deep socket or box wrench has never filed me when I do this.

 

[slash007]

This one is the beginning of the block, so there is room on top. I guess cutting the nut off would probably be the easiest. If the stem is just spinning in place, shouldn't it be leaking? Or I guess if it's staying closed, then maybe it's doing it's job.

 

[Waxman]

Post a picture if you can. That might help.

 

[MEP001]

It's probably that the stem has an o-ring seal in the base nut and isn't permanently bonded as one piece, so the stem can turn once the nut breaks loose.

 

[Waxman]

The wax in one of my bays is not coming out and I assume it's the coil on the manifold. Normally I would justswap it, but I have been unable to remove it. It's a JC system and when I turn the nut on top of the stem, the whole stem turns. You would think that after a few turns the stem would just come out of the block and I could work on getting it out of the black cube, but no matter how many times I turn it, the stem just stays in. Any advice on how to remove it? I don't want to break it out and then not be able to screw in another stem due to possible damage to the manifold. Thanks.

WAIT. Before you start destroying parts, troubleshoot this thing properly. Start at one end ( wax source ) and work inward, toward spray gun. At each point when you find something in 'ok' status, move to the next thing.

I.E.; is there wax in the tank? is the screen plugged that lets the wax out? is there plenty of waxy water before solenoid valve? is it there after solenoid valve, and so forth.

 

[MEP001]

WAIT. Before you start destroying parts, troubleshoot this thing properly. Start at one end ( wax source ) and work inward, toward spray gun. At each point when you find something in 'ok' status, move to the next thing.

No wax on one bay on Coleman equipment is 99.9% the solenoid coil or a stuck plunger. The coils commonly fail.

 

[slash007]

Gave up and went nuclear with a dremel. Finally got the nut off, but then coil wouldn't come off of stem. Stem finally broke off right above the threaded area where the base is. Replaced everything and good to go now. Like MEP said, with Coleman it's almost always the coil when it's one bay. Haven't had many fail, but that's all that has gone wrong. No check valve for the was to go bad so there wasn't much else unless a wire was bad, which was unlikely. Appreciate all the suggestions.

Btw, my other wash had no working presoak when I bought it. Tried so many things to get it to work and no luck, but never checked the coils since it was no presoak at all in any of the bays. Finally a couple of weeks later I figured out that all 5 coils were bad.

 

[Randy]

Has anyone ever had to replace the coil of a KIP solenoid valve? I've never had to.

 

[slash007]

8 years since I changed that bank of 5 and haven't had one fail since. I think he had a bad leak there that was never fixed. At this location, I bought the pump stand used after it sat outside for over a year. When I first put in in about 4 years ago, I had to replace about 7 of them when I started it up. This is the first one to fail since.