General Pump CW1541--metal shavings

[raisetheprice]

10 year old General finally gave up. The pressure is low and pulsating and the dipstick has metal shavings on it. Any idea for the best option for LW4000? Looks pretty simple to either rebuild or replace.

 

[MEP001]

Unless you can find a used crankcase in good condition you'd be better off replacing the pump rather than trying to fix it

The Cat 3535 is about $2,000 less than the CW1541.

 

[Randy]

You might to consider looking at the Arimitsu pumps. They are a lot less expensive than a Cat 3535. www.arimitsupumps.com
Contact James or Greg, they?ll be happy to help you.

 

[MEP001]

I don't see an Arimitsu that comes close to the requirements of a Laser 4000.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

They have a replacement for a 3535 Cat. Shouldn't that do the job or do you have to use that pump with two inlets?

 

[raisetheprice]

I found this General on sale it looks like...

http://www.shopetsonline.com/Car-Wash-Pumps-s/1021.htm

or

http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-4215-cat-pump-3535-36-gpm-1200-psi-300-max-hp.aspx

If I switch to the CAT, are there any modifications?

OR

My distributor has a rebuilt CAT 3535 for $900

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Windtrax has the General for $2957. They've been a forum supporter for years.

 

[MEP001]

Windtrax has the General for $2957.

That's an amazing price. Last time I priced one for resale it was $6,500.

 

[raisetheprice]

Windtrax has the General for $2957. They've been a forum supporter for years.

Pulled the trigger on the one from Windtrax...thanks for the lead. Hopefully it's ready to be drop shipped from General today...waiting on confirmation.

I've never put one in before...it looks simple enough. But is there anything I need to do before firing it up other than making sure the oil is at full level?

 

[MEP001]

But is there anything I need to do before firing it up other than making sure the oil is at full level?

Other than changing the original oil at 50 hours of operation, there's nothing special about changing or starting a new pump. The large tank above it should make for no problems with it priming easily.

 

[mac]

When you swar it out, see if there is a ball valve to shut off the water supply. If not, this would be the time to put one in. Makes future service work much easier.

 

[raisetheprice]

When you swar it out, see if there is a ball valve to shut off the water supply. If not, this would be the time to put one in. Makes future service work much easier.

Uhh...can you elaborate a little more. I'm not following what, why or where a ball valve should go...

If you're talking about the supply to the main and aux tanks, there are 2 valves for the main tank (1 from reject tank and 1 for main) and one for the aux tank. These valves are all on the wall behind the tanks.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

He's talking about between the pump and the tank. This would prevent draining (actually spilling) the water from the tank.

BTW, when can I expect my $100 finders fee to appear in my mailbox ?

 

[phred113]

I don't see an Arimitsu that comes close to the requirements of a Laser 4000.

Arimitsu introduced Model 3612 at the Orlando show and it was very popular based upon all the people I saw in their booth. It is not on their website for some reason. It is a 36 gpm pump with a standard SS head and simple seal system from what I am told. I'd call Greg if you want more info and tell them to put up on their site.

 

[mac]

IB Washin is correct on the shutoff valve placement. There are times when it is real nice to inspect the valves in the pump head, and it's a pain if you have to drain the tank to do it. If nothing else, it will impress other operators when you show it to them.

 

[MEP001]

The Vectors don't have shut-offs, and yeah, it's a pain to service anything without it. You have to get wet first. I installed a PVC ball-valve with a built-in union the first time I had to work on it.

 

[raisetheprice]

Pump pulley

I borrowed a puller from advanced auto parts to pull the pulley off the old pump. Is there a press of some sort to get the pulley on the new pump? I see that the shaft is threaded inside, is that where the press screws in? I've got the pump in place and just need to get the pulley and belts back on. Don't really want to call my distributor to finish since I've got it this far.

 

[MEP001]

I think you just use a bolt in the threads in the shaft to draw the pulley on, but you should be able to get it on without that much effort. You may need to sand the inside of the sheave. Is it a two-piece pulley? If so, just remove the insert completely and use a screwdriver to pry it bigger.

 

[raisetheprice]

Yes, it is a 2 piece pulley. It has 3 bolts that I removed and used those bolts with the puller to get it off. It's very very tight and it took some muscle to get the pulley off of the old pump even with the puller. There was no bolt holding the pulley on the old pump via the threaded shaft. I'll call my distributor, they'll tell me what to do for free.

 

[MEP001]

The proper way to remove such a pulley is to run the three bolts into the threaded holes on the sheave and force the pulley off of it, then the sheave slides off the shaft. You reassemble the parts loosely, slide the pulley assembly over the new pump shaft and tighten the three bolts. The pulley will shift over a little, so you'll have to compensate when aligning the belts.

If you don't loosen the three sheave bolts, you'll never get the pulley on the new pump without damaging something.