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Air Shammee 1 vs 2

Roz

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Anyone test the experience and difference between the Air Shammee 1 vs Super Shammee 2? I know the 1 is the three motor version and the 2 is the large single motor version. Can you feel or see a difference?
 

Mchas

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I have both. If the single motor three phase is an option, do that for sure. The three small motors is a giant pain. Literally today I was climbing on the roof to replace one of the motors. I have 5 bays so that’s 15 motors and I seem to have to replace one every month or so. I change the motor brushes too and they still fail. I’ve had the three phase ones at least 6-7 years now and never had a single problem with those. I don’t notice much pressure difference but I do know the single phase versions are very unreliable.
 

Kar B Kleen

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I have both for 2 + years and no problems with either. As far as pressure difference, it's minimal if any. They will pay for their self in a year or less. If 3 phase is available, I would go with the single motor.
 

Greg Pack

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I have both. If the single motor three phase is an option, do that for sure. The three small motors is a giant pain. Literally today I was climbing on the roof to replace one of the motors. I have 5 bays so that’s 15 motors and I seem to have to replace one every month or so. I change the motor brushes too and they still fail. I’ve had the three phase ones at least 6-7 years now and never had a single problem with those. I don’t notice much pressure difference but I do know the single phase versions are very unreliable.

Do you use the diskin trigger gun? I found that they overamp the 3 phase motor pretty badly when allowed to run with the trigger not pulled. I'm wondering if that could cause premature failure.
 

Roz

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Totally agree. After triple foam the dryers get a lot of use.

We have the three motor 220v attic system. Only complaint is that the motors are in the attic so a chore to climb into the attic for servicing.

The only thing we have to do a few times a year is reattach the 2” vac style hose to the motor coupling in the attic. I am experimenting with a solution for the hose challenge, a 2” Wide by 12” long PVC pipe to have a better c clamp connection to the motor unit. We shall see.
 

Roz

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Do you use the diskin trigger gun? I found that they overamp the 3 phase motor pretty badly when allowed to run with the trigger not pulled. I'm wondering if that could cause premature failure.
We moved away from the trigger nozzles to the single piece nozzle as the triggers break and that nozzle is two pieces held together by rivets. The non trigger nozzle is a single molded handle and seems to improve the air volume thru the nozzle.
 

Mchas

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Do you use the diskin trigger gun? I found that they overamp the 3 phase motor pretty badly when allowed to run with the trigger not pulled. I'm wondering if that could cause premature failure.
Yes I do use their guns, mainly because I bought a bunch and still have some left. Once they run out though I plan to switch to the air logic nozzles. Haven’t had a problem with any of the 3 phase motors at all.
 

Earl Weiss

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I put a standard Vac claw on a nozzle to see how it worked (Worked Great) Left it on fpr several weeks waiting for negative feedback - got none.
 

OurTown

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The only thing we have to do a few times a year is reattach the 2” vac style hose to the motor coupling in the attic. I am experimenting with a solution for the hose challenge, a 2” Wide by 12” long PVC pipe to have a better c clamp connection to the motor unit. We shall see.
Are you using the Air Shammee wall booms? I would like to see this solution although we rarely have any hose blow off issues after switching to T-bolt clamps.
 

Roz

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Are you using the Air Shammee wall booms? I would like to see this solution although we rarely have any hose blow off issues after switching to T-bolt clamps.
Issue is not with the boom connection. Issue is in the attic where the hose connects to the motors.
 

Blanco

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Issue is not with the boom connection. Issue is in the attic where the hose connects to the motors.
Very simple fix. All you need to do is put two screws up there through the coupling and hose before the hose clamp. Have not had one come off in over 8 years and your not restricting any swivel motion since its a fixed mount coupling anyway.
 

OurTown

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Issue is not with the boom connection. Issue is in the attic where the hose connects to the motors.

I understood which connection was the issue but just trying to picture the pipe. Does it go through the ceiling and then connect to the hose going to the boom? The boom of course can't have a rigid connection because it does not swivel on the center axis of it's hose connection. On a side note that connection is an issue. Can't use a threaded rod, washer and nut there as it prevents the boom from laying all the way against the wall. It will even hit a bolt head and put it in a slight bind. We didn't have the issue before moving the motors to the attic and flipping the booms over and connecting the hose inlet to the top.
 

STXCW

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We install our single motor units in the equipment room and run 2" PVC out to the bays. The difference in the pressure from the unit closest to the room or 5 bays away is not noticeable enough to do it any other way.
 

Roz

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We install our single motor units in the equipment room and run 2" PVC out to the bays. The difference in the pressure from the unit closest to the room or 5 bays away is not noticeable enough to do it any other way.
Clever idea! Not certain if my ears could deal with the noise in the ER if all 5 bays ran the dryers at the same time.
 
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