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I don't know what the LAI "puck" locks are made of, but I really like the Cobra locks. They're hardened steel and can be ordered with a Medeco insert. They aren't 100% entry-proof, but they're a million times better than MasterLock or American 2000, both of which can be opened with a comb pick...

At least he's with a paying forum sponsor company.

Some machines add soap to the high pressure pass, but IMO it's just for show. The amount of soap you'd need to do any cleaning on a high pressure touchless pass would be insane.

Part of why I like the check valve I linked is because it has thicker walls so it doesn't expand, helps prevent this problem.

What's on the walls that makes it not-so-fresh looking?

Never assume that because it's new it's 100% good. I will not use those check valves because of its many possible failure points. No, that's just how it's assembled or can be repaired with a new o-ring. It's definitely possible.

What kind of work are you looking for? I'm in Texas but I may be flying out there at the end of October.

It could be. There are always variables. He could be lying about the income, there could be another wash about to be build across the road, there could be a problem with the land like gas tanks buried that will need to be dug up that could cost a couple million if they've been leaking.

You can't. The machines that take $2 or $3 are completely different. They don't make the retrofit to electronic anymore either.

I have so many tools in my "carry" toolbox that I can barely lift it, so I made a couple of the old-fashioned tool boxes out of plywood , one to throw the parts I need into, the other for the tools I'm going to need. I have at least six #2 Phillips screwdrivers in my toolbox, most of which have...

Looking at the check valve, it's entirely possible the nipple is screwed so far into it that the poppet is opening against the nipple and blocking the flow. I've seen that happen more than once. I use these check valves and have never had them fail...

I have the original Super Tool, it's better than no screwdriver but it's very awkward to use.

I don't rely on weep anymore. I go through the washes, turn on air and squeeze all the triggers until all the water is gone, then shut everything down. If there's a threat of an extended hard freeze like during the Snowpocalypse I drain all the tanks and plumbing in the room.

I've used my Leatherman screwdriver to save the trip out to the vehicle and I regret the decision every time.

I use this one: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-5205-hamel-438sff-blue-ss-rubber-coated-blue-foam-gun.aspx The tube inside is stainless. The steel ones rust really fast and fall off the hose. I order 2540 1/8" tips with it.

Home Depot's pricing is so weird. This item is $15 for one, $20 for two. I use the Husky standard screwdrivers and lose one about once a year. It's actually cheaper to get the two-pack slotted and Phillips than to buy either one separately.

I run a Procon on a 3/4 motor for delivery to the bays, assuming that's what you're asking. It can run 250 PSI and has no trouble running 4 bays at once at that pressure.

Let me get this straight... you're thinking that he's right that he'd never build a car wash out of wood? I just want to be sure I understand what you're saying.

It counts by denomination but doesn't sort.

A lot of coastal car washes here are made of wood frames to prevent rust.