Search results

And yet you continue to make recommendations that you know you shouldn't and don't have any real-world experience to formulate a truthful or factual comment.

No, I will continue to call you out in public. If that's a problem for you, I suggest you stop posting.

You don't own any car wash of any kind, nor are you a service tech with any familiarity. You promised you'd be forthcoming when making any comments like this.

It should have a weep system, and it's easy to add one if it doesn't. It should also have electric heat pads to keep the photo eyes from icing over, and you can pump warm water through the rails to melt any ice that builds up.

This is a kid with zero real-world car wash experience.

On what experience do you base this statement?

Except that with automatics that are tire-driven, the center of the tire is at a fixed distance from the rail. More tire pressure expands the tire and puts more grip on the rail.

It could be my eyes, my right one was injured badly by a tennis ball, but wall packs glare. Light from above doesn't.

My bet would be they used Shallco switches which orient with "STOP" at the bottom.

I've been told that Kleen-Rite branded chemicals are made by Simoniz. They are not rebranded products, they are made to Kleen-Rite's specifications.

No, part of the ladder program is a delay to prevent that. I've done five seconds. Why is stop at the bottom? I always put it at the top and arrange the functions in a recommended use so they can just work around the dial.

I'm not familiar with Nayax, but others have said there are external wires to do this. I've done it with Cryptopay and Hamilton D.A.N. systems. The ladder relay method uses the second layer of the rotary switch, one wire from the layer that controls the motor and another wire from all the...

The best thing I've done was use a programmable relay to end the transaction when "STOP" is selected on the rotary switch. No sign will solve the problem when people are so stupid they press "STOP" on the label for the rotary switch. Someone has said changing the label to "OFF" helps.

If neither soap nor wax were working and now they are, you might have a check valve on those lines that was stuck closed, and the suction on the line pulled it open. It will probably stick again.

I'd say 8000 each. I would go with ceiling fixtures instead of wall packs in the bays.

The D&S 5000 is a pretty good machine. Be prepared for a shock if you need any parts. Most of them that aren't off-the-shelf can be fabricated, like the main shaft that used to be $3500 from them I had made for $1100. I'd call them to see if you can still get parts like the drive wheels. I'm...

It would be very hard to change the adjustment. Your "employee" either got something misaligned or damaged it.

Sometimes depending on the plumbing you have to close the feed from the holding tank to make the pump draw soap and wax. It's most often a problem when the supply line is 3/4" hose. With the trigger pulled, close the valve until you hear the pump cavitating, then open it just far enough that...

It's the motor. I just replaced one for the same reason.

Bumping an old thread is bad forum etiquette. So is asking the same question multiple times.