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Did the flow stay good directly after the solenoid without any other plumbing attached? Did you try this valve in another razor? One test would be to remove the guts out of the solenoid and manually turn the water on and off to see if you get the same results. Disconnect the coil if you do...

Coil hoses are a pain, we only use them when we absolutely have to - ie no boom. we prefer the straight hoses when a boom is available

If you have a boom, highly recommend NOT to get the coil hoses.

I want to be your distributor if this is your solution for problems! 😂 Disclaimer - I am not a distributor, but can start a distributorship just for a customer like you hahaha

KR has add on boxes for dixmor display timers and credit card readers. Display timers are a must in this day and age, customers expect them. Just my 2 cents

If someone comes back to this thread later, never figured this out, problem kinda went away, and was forgotten about. Whole pump was replaced with a new one. hopefully that fixes it for good.

Quick update if anyone comes back to this thread in the future, had to replace the pump 1.5 years after rebuild. Motor started over-amping and pump was not putting out correct pressure. As I stated before, I would have just replaced with new originally, if I had known then what I know now.

How long are these doors going to take to go up and down for every wash with those openers?

Can't help on where to get it or manufacturer, but if you don't find it, probably can get it 3d printed by a local company if you can't find it

Those revenues don't line up for a small town wash, be very cautious about verifying those numbers.

Don't fire the I.T. guy without having a suitable replacement available - learned this the hard way in my retail days

$711 usd at kleen rite

What do you consider a scam artist and making more than what he should have? As you are experiencing, knowledge of these systems costs time and money

I can check my wiring tomorrow, but pretty sure I just used the microcoin directions and it worked. Black to pin 10, blue and yellow to pin 9, and green to pin 2

Blue and green are the relay wires, hooking both to same pin won't do anything. Your original wiring should have been correct according to microcoin instructions I posted above. You can try blue with the black and green on #2

Dixmor timers only: Connect black wire to 24 VAC. Connect yellow and a blue or green wire to Neutral. Connect the other blue or green wire to timer coin pulse.

There are threads with this info on this forum. But basically you need a low level relay from Amazon and you will be sending pulses down the coin acceptor line to the timer in count down mode as you want it setup. Someone had even posted a diagram on here somewhere. I use a ac/dc converter to...

Depends heavily on customer demographics if you can go cc only

LED modules are available from digikey - replace all modules at the same time, makes a huge difference if your leds are old and faded or dead pixels. The led modules are also available for the smaller GT200 IDX timers - same thing, replace all at the same time. Big Timer - Kingbright...

I believe it is needed, because it is a voltage change between nayax and coin acceptor/timer pulse circuits. I have setup all our vacs this way and it works. Even if they weren't needed, I would still wire this way to protect the nayax from stray voltage/short circuits. Same reason I like to use...