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I just started the floor heat this week. Flawless as usual! Its hard to believe its been 11 years already!! Pretty simple when you think about it and how it works! As for purging...I put fill and test ports on both the primary and secondary plumbing lines. Makes it easier to use a sump pump in...

Good idea. Something I didn't get when I bought in 2011. All I got was keys at the closing! Offering that might make it look more enticing to a new potential buyer! I turned 62 in May and retired from 43 years of Manufacturing/Engineering! Part of my exit strategy from the 6am-4:30pm day job...

You might try renting one first? I've often wondered the same thing about using one...My PVC walls are about due again!

All good information for the new owner! I know it can be over whelming at first, but if you'd like to learn more about floor heat and what alternatives there are to the old systems, you can do some reading on a thread I started over 11 years ago. It was me after my first winter!!! Dependiing on...

I agree with your post about not running the floor heat "output" of 140°. But if you look at the diagram above, the way its plumbed allows for some of the boiler output to recirculate back into the boiler. There may be another bypass valve missing in the diagram that allows some of the return to...

The biggest thing people overlook with a "non Condensing" boiler, which I am assuming is what you have, is the boiler itself needs to run above 140° to keep from condensing. If run below 140°, the condesate that drips from the coils is extremely acidic and will damage the heat exchanger in a...

Open 365 days a year!

Check Supplyhouse.com and compare to Amazon and Zoro. You won't find a better stat for less....

CWdummy said rinse works properly in his first post, he only gets pressure loss and cavitation when selecting soap and wax. If this is the case, I would think it rules out pump seals...

Do you have "Zero Pressure" regulators installed for the city pressure water to your pumps as you stated? If you do and even if you're soap and wax lines are plugged, the pump should not cavitate. In my opinion, air is getting into the system when either soap or wax solenoids open and could be...

Also going to add to the conversation...With the newer wall mount demand heaters, the heat exchanger has "Very Tiny" passage ways to get the efficiency. I wonder if "Fix-A-Leak" will block off or damage the heat exchanger in these heaters?

Sooo many ways to skin a cat! First time I've ever heard of using circulated PS to heat the trough! I can only imagine the problems that created!

I don't know if this helps, but it is how I have my pumpstand plumbed....Hot and Cold gravity tanks feed "Erie" 2 way motorized valves with 1/2" poly hose to each pump. I use heated water for soap and wax, easy to wire....Heated water plumbed to the NO inlet of the valves so if they fail, they...

An After Thought In the Heat of the Moment! :D

I use a bungee strap to hold the trigger and to secure the wand to the wand holder....I tried a tennis ball once! That was fun trying to chase down the gun once it blew out of the holder!

I agree to a point, but you and a few others are 99.9% "Not" the norm in this business OR someone looking to buy! I have three PLC's running washer fluid winterizing systems and my lighting system that interacts with bay timers. I will want to sell the CW one of these years. Is it going to be...

I would keep the solenoids on the air lines to the flojets...They are basically a fail safe in case a chemical solenoid fails open and drains a bucket of chemicals when you're not there! I use relays instead of a multiplexer to control the air solenoids...

My point exactly! Feeding an RO System with anything other than typical softened water will cost cost you no matter how you do it! I read where you use a lot more Potassium to soften water v/s using salt in comparrison. And like the PO explained, the cost per bag of Potassium is $36, about 6x...

How do you run a SFR system without a softener if you have hard water?

I might add, instead of installing a "Well" type t-stat probe for the return glycol temperature, it would be a lot more simple to just strap on the temp probe to the copper pipe and insulate it. Gets rid of a solder joint and would be just as effective!