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80 psi should be more than enough pressure on the liquid line. Try cutting the air completely off and see what psi your pump is producing without the air.
I only have 2, 2.0 machines, and they have foam generators on them but they were added along with flow control valves on each side to fine tune the spray. We have 16 1.0's with individual foam generators on each color. It's a completely different setup on the 1.0. I don't see how it will ever...
definitely a bad check valve on the supply line for the pump under the rinse tank. I believe its a 3/4" check valve. They will erode away after a while and you will more than likely have issues from the others very soon. I bet you have issues with the holding tank eventually overflowing when...
I spoke with Hydraflex support today and they suggested my injectors were too small based on the pump size and suggested I replace them with a larger size orifice injector. The theory being that currently we are forcing the pump to bypass because the orifice size is too small making it work...
I am waiting to hear back from the company before I do anything, but something is going to have to be done with the bypass like you suggested. I am wondering if I could run it to a holding tank and gravity feed the pump... Thanks for the replies and I will keep you posted on what I find out...
I think it's just a very bad design and the company does not want to admit it publicly. No matter what you do, the water is going to get hot due to the excessive amount of bypass on busy days.
Is anybody that's using the Hydra-Flex chemical dispensing system having issues with the booster pump overheating on very busy days? We have the setup with a spare booster pump with the quick connect fittings to switch pumps quickly, but we had to switch over the pumps seven times in the span...
I agree on the JetScan iFX. Bought one a few years ago and regained my sanity. I was hand counting currency from 9 locations. Needless to say, I got pretty good at it.
You are getting the Home Prox Needs to Be Replaced Error because the home prox is not on during the first second of the wash, (Right after you hit the reset button and a wash is probably in que). I don't think you issue is going to be either of the prox switches but more likely an issue with...
That's the brand Name of the boom tilt solenoid valve. The valve that opens and allows air through to tilt the boom and then exhausts the air when boom tilt is released.
I am also converting some water wizard 1.0's to the hydroflex nozzles. I was told by the manufacturer that the pressure cannot exceed 1000 psi on any nozzle at any point, thus you have to set your regulator to 1000 psi when just the top boom is spraying since that is the fewest amount of...
I assume it has done this as long as we have had it. Does you boom release tilt without hitting the gantry while in manual mode? These are the only 2.0 machines we have. I mainly have 1.0's, thus I don't have much to compare to.
It has a brand new ARO air valve on it and exhausts just fine. I think it's in the programming of the machine. It's nots getting the signal to release the tilt until after the boom hits the body of the gantry. In manual mode, I can tilt the boom after it comes down like 6", which is still up...
Anybody have any ideas as to why my boom hits the gantry when traveling back up inside the gantry? There is no boom tilt Prox on the 2.0 and I have been told the count is factory set and can't be changed. The boom tilt solenoid is fine and the boom does not stick when I tilt the boom in manual...
Does anybody know any tricks to removing tar from the walls and concrete floor of a self serve bay? Not sure what material the bay walls have on them as far as the covering. Its some type of textured plastic...
If you still have the old style vfd's installed, you can change the setting for parameter n53 to 10.0 and it will help. Little late now but might come in handy in the future. Regardless, its a sign of a gear box getting weak. Also you must make sure the 4 rubber stops are in place.