What's new

Am I wasting salt?

APW

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
864
Reaction score
390
Points
63
Location
South
I am going through salt like crazy at my new location. Right now everything is on soft water. Using soft water for high pressure rinse, am I cleaning cars better, making my pump last longer, or any other benefits? Or do I need to plumb non softened water to my pump stand for rinse. Every wash is followed by a spot free rinse. My hardness is 14.
 
Last edited:

rph9168

Carwashguy
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
2,663
Reaction score
11
Points
38
Location
Atlanta
Hard water actually rinses much better than soft. You should use soft water to mix your detergents but not for sealants or drying agents.
 

chaz

Active member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
919
Reaction score
110
Points
43
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Is your regeneration set incorrectly, Resulting in waisting softened water
 

APW

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
864
Reaction score
390
Points
63
Location
South
I had a guy that specializes in Fleck Valves help me set it up. I am just washing a lot of cars at this location compared to my other one.
 

PaulLovesJamie

rural 5 bay SS
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
1,320
Reaction score
229
Points
63
Location
Kutztown PA
I had a guy that specializes in Fleck Valves help me set it up.
When I first bought my wash many moons ago, I had a softener company come in to do a repair on my softener. I can still recall him saying "oh this cant be right!" and he 'adjusted' my fleck valve settings, resulting in almost doubling my salt usage. A year or so later I re-adjusted (with hardness tests every week until I knew I had it right.) Funny thing, the correct setting actually used less salt than it originally used.
Hopefully the guy who helped you was good, but I suppose Reagan had it about right. "Trust but verify."
 

Waxman

Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
6,046
Reaction score
1,685
Points
113
Location
Orange, MA
i use hot softened water to apply soaps. cold city water for rinse.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,665
Reaction score
3,946
Points
113
Location
Texas
FWIW I used to work with a guy that "specialized in Fleck softeners," and he didn't know the first thing about diagnosing or setting them up, he'd just throw parts at it until it worked, two that I know of he actually plumbed backwards and flooded the equipment with resin and gravel.

There's a tag on the brine valve and a number on the fitting that goes to the drain - if you can post those two numbers and the height/diameter of the tank I can tell you how much salt you should be using per regeneration.
 

Car_Wash_Guy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
1,175
Reaction score
347
Points
83
Location
out west
I'm not sure I ever dealt with in my life group of guys that I felt were a more knowledgeable about the product they sold than as those at Pacific Water Softeners in Salt Lake City. They've walked me through a few issues I've had with my Fleck heads and water softener system with ease. I recommend them with confidence.
 

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
4,388
Reaction score
2,167
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
When I first installed a softener at a 4/2 wash I bought ten years ago, I softened everything. Salt was less than $3/bag then. Going through 20-25 bags a month wasn't a big deal. But now the price of salt has doubled. On top of that it is a hassle to load the brine tank.

Like many others here I have tried to get more efficient in operations. I just recently re-plumbed my high pressure autos to use hard water rinse. I still use soft water on all chemicals and the SS. The only reason I am using it on SS is there is no quick way to replumb. With the autos on hard rinse, salt usage is down probably 75%. I can not tell a difference in wash quality. You can argue that I may have more scale and hardness build up on the walls and equipment, but IMO for the cost savings it is worth it. If you are plumbed for hard water rise I would try it.

You can also check your softeners and see if you can extend the regeneration time. I assume you do regenerate based on flow. Go in and check hardness just before the softener generates and see if the water is still soft. If so, take a grain of hardness off the programming. In other words adjust your input water feed from (I assume from your post)14 to 13 grains. This will increase the volume of water between regenerations about eight percent. When it gets ready to regenerate again, repeat the procedure. Continue this procedure until you finally check it and it is hard just prior to regeneration. When that happens go back "up" one grain on your programming.

There are other things you can do to minimize salt usage. Frequent regeneration is supposedly more efficient if you make the necessary adjustments in the settings to reduce brine usage, but I just usually leave that set to default. I've never tried it so can't comment. You may want to look into that.
 

APW

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
864
Reaction score
390
Points
63
Location
South
FWIW I used to work with a guy that "specialized in Fleck softeners," and he didn't know the first thing about diagnosing or setting them up, he'd just throw parts at it until it worked, two that I know of he actually plumbed backwards and flooded the equipment with resin and gravel.

There's a tag on the brine valve and a number on the fitting that goes to the drain - if you can post those two numbers and the height/diameter of the tank I can tell you how much salt you should be using per regeneration.
One tank has a 0, the other tank has 00. The two tanks are 16x65.
 

HCW

Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
201
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Kansas
When I first installed a softener at a 4/2 wash I bought ten years ago, I softened everything. Salt was less than $3/bag then. Going through 20-25 bags a month wasn't a big deal. But now the price of salt has doubled. On top of that it is a hassle to load the brine tank.

Like many others here I have tried to get more efficient in operations. I just recently re-plumbed my high pressure autos to use hard water rinse. I still use soft water on all chemicals and the SS. The only reason I am using it on SS is there is no quick way to replumb. With the autos on hard rinse, salt usage is down probably 75%. I can not tell a difference in wash quality. You can argue that I may have more scale and hardness build up on the walls and equipment, but IMO for the cost savings it is worth it. If you are plumbed for hard water rise I would try it.

You can also check your softeners and see if you can extend the regeneration time. I assume you do regenerate based on flow. Go in and check hardness just before the softener generates and see if the water is still soft. If so, take a grain of hardness off the programming. In other words adjust your input water feed from (I assume from your post)14 to 13 grains. This will increase the volume of water between regenerations about eight percent. When it gets ready to regenerate again, repeat the procedure. Continue this procedure until you finally check it and it is hard just prior to regeneration. When that happens go back "up" one grain on your programming.

There are other things you can do to minimize salt usage. Frequent regeneration is supposedly more efficient if you make the necessary adjustments in the settings to reduce brine usage, but I just usually leave that set to default. I've never tried it so can't comment. You may want to look into that.
Is 14 grain too hard for hp wax and rinse? How hard is your water?
 

rph9168

Carwashguy
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
2,663
Reaction score
11
Points
38
Location
Atlanta
Probably okay for the hp wax and for sure for the rinse. Soft water (5 grains or less) is much more important for cleaners and foaming products.
 
Top