Arch Spacing

[TEEBOX]

All,

Prior to the Final Rain Arch I have the Dry Aid and Clearcoat Sealant both on the same Arch.

I have acquired a new arch that I would like to separate them so each has a dedicated Arch.

I would like to put Clearcoat Sealant followed by Dry Aid then Final Rinse Arch.

How far spacing should I have them apart?

 

[Washmee]

There really isn't any need to apply drying agent in addition to clearcoat sealant.

 

[Earl Weiss]

For effectiveness, spacing is interrelated to line speed. I have no scientific info but I think an installer once recomended 12" spacing minimum with 18" being beter to avoid dumping one producy just on top of the other instead of on the surface.

Having said that, while tastes differ I prefer less to more. Meaning that less arches gives a feeling of openness. You can accomplish the spacing for 3 applications with a single arch using 2 foot struts. One application on the lead edge of the strut, one in the middlem and one at the exit end.

The other side of the coin is if you somehow use the arch to mount lights / signage.

 

[TEEBOX]

There really isn't any need to apply drying agent in addition to clearcoat sealant.

Hi, I just want to follow up with your feedback on this subject. You do not apply dry aid when applying clearcoat?

That would save a ton! Out of curiousity which manufacturer do yo use?

 

[rph9168]

As Earl has mentioned dwell time (the time between application and rinse) is critical to get the full benefit of the clear coat sealant while coverage is also a secondary concern. Drying agent after a good clear coat protectant should not be necessary.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Hi, I just want to follow up with your feedback on this subject. You do not apply dry aid when applying clearcoat?

That would save a ton! Out of curiousity which manufacturer do yo use?

The best answer to your question will be obtained if you try it. Turn off the DA for a car (or 10) that gets CC and see what happens. All sorts of factor can impact how it works at any given location.

 

[mrfixit]

The type of chemicals would make a difference in quality. But yeah a clear coat is a drying agent in most brands.

Try to turn the DA off and see how the beading looks on the final rinse compared to how it does with the DA also. A close up pic of the beads on the car will help in comparing.

I also assume your using an RO rinse?

If the clear coat doesn't produce significant beading becuase its not good maybe another chemical is in order.
Our Wash was set up with 3 drying type agents... we had more wax going on the car than soap! Do you have a tri foam wax going on too?

Is the drying agent a sheeting agent or beading agent? It may have a benifit for your location specifically. I've been interested in the sheeting types but have no idea how it would work in conjunction. I Think I'd rather have it sheet off than bead actually.

You can use extra arch for a new revenue creating option like a rainx type surface sealant for top packages or something and get a few more dollars.

 

[TEEBOX]

The type of chemicals would make a difference in quality. But yeah a clear coat is a drying agent in most brands.

Try to turn the DA off and see how the beading looks on the final rinse compared to how it does with the DA also. A close up pic of the beads on the car will help in comparing.

I also assume your using an RO rinse?

If the clear coat doesn't produce significant beading becuase its not good maybe another chemical is in order.
Our Wash was set up with 3 drying type agents... we had more wax going on the car than soap! Do you have a tri foam wax going on too?

Is the drying agent a sheeting agent or beading agent? It may have a benifit for your location specifically. I've been interested in the sheeting types but have no idea how it would work in conjunction. I Think I'd rather have it sheet off than bead actually.

You can use extra arch for a new revenue creating option like a rainx type surface sealant for top packages or something and get a few more dollars.

I turned off the Drying Aid (DA) and just use the Clearcoat (CC) that get the extra service. My cars do not sheet but beed which I prefer. A personal preference.

I do not use RO at my wash. Maybe at a later date.

I also turned off the CC when I apply Rain-X with my top package and it drys great.

 

[mrfixit]

So are you using soft water for the final rinse? I take it you don't have any spotting problems from the final rinse with the That may be why they run a da

For me the cc only cost about 3-4¢ a car so cost isn't a concern.

 

[rph9168]

Hard water rinses much better than soft or RO because there is increased surface tension assisting in the beading. Drying agents/sealants that create sheeting action are normally used in self service more than automatics or conveyors. Sheeting action is much harder for blowers to remove from the surface than beading actions.

 

[washnshine]

Hard water rinses much better than soft or RO because there is increased surface tension assisting in the beading. Drying agents/sealants that create sheeting action are normally used in self service more than automatics or conveyors. Sheeting action is much harder for blowers to remove from the surface than beading actions.

100% correct. Sheeting type drying agents will just ripple up on the surface of the car when going through the blower. The water is never pushed off the surface as it is when it beads. The sheeting action makes the blower just spread the water around.

 

[TEEBOX]

Ok, results from turning of drying aid when clear coat is applied. Water beads the off car great!

Results from turning off drying aid and clear coat when applying Rain-X, water beads fall off the car too!

In both wash packages the car came out very dry!

As the weather changes and more variables are involved, I'll keep a sharp eye on the drying process!

As of now I'm convinced that I have been wasting a lot off chemical for the last 10 plus years!

Thanks to this forum with your meaningful insights!