D&S 5000 Stopping

[cleaning up mud]

I know its been discussed, but why does this unit quit in front of the car? I have to go 20 miles to this location to reset it!! Just dumb, if the wash sees something in the rear it works right, high pressure comes on and the gantry goes home. Any fix to this????? Also is there anyway to get the wash to tell the unitec ac that the was is down so it doesnt take peoples money????

Thanks

 

[cleaning up mud]

D&s 5000

SURELY SOMEONE KNOWS, why this machine quits in front and does not go home and does not send a signal to the AC that the carwash is out of service!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any ideas???????????????/

 

[borumrm]

SURELY SOMEONE KNOWS, why this machine quits in front and does not go home and does not send a signal to the AC that the carwash is out of service!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any ideas???????????????/

How often does this happen? I have had it happen but usually it is something obvious ... sounds like this is NOT an obvious reason so here are a couple of things to check...

The first thing I would check would be a problem with the unbilical cord that supplies power to the eyes, prox switch etc. If one of the wires in that cable is worn or broken you might see this. I find that I have to either replace or trace a wire in the cable about every two or three years. For my money that might be the first thing. Next you might check the prox counter switch and make sure it does not need adjusting...it can get loose and lose count...if it was this I would think you might see it drifting from the home position over time ... it might not stop exactly where it should after the wash not necessarily the down in front position. Another thing that could be one of the eyes that detect when it is down...it senses the flag perhaps that eye is going bad. You might try calling D&S directly and see if they can help I have actually had good luck with that in the past. I still am betting on the umbilical cable...... Good Luck

 

[Red Baron]

Check for shorts in the umbilical cord by turning on your manual hydraulics then shaking the umbilical cord in the bay. I've been told that if the gantry moves, you have a short.

 

[borumrm]

Check for shorts in the umbilical cord by turning on your manual hydraulics then shaking the umbilical cord in the bay. I've been told that if the gantry moves, you have a short.

Hey Baron that might work....I had not thought of that...next time I have a problem with this I'll give that a try......

 

[robblackburn]

also check coil on hydrolic pack

I agree with posts about umbillical cord.... I have had that happen before. Also could be the coil on top of the hydrolic unit. There are two coils and one does reverse and one does forward. After it has washed a few cars feel the coils and if one is hot to the touch then that is probably the issue. The coils will also sometimes pop breaker and it will need to be reset.

Rob

 

[borumrm]

Regarding the coils you can find out if it is that by placing the machine in manual mode and then covering the eye closest to the ground (assuming the gantry is in the down position) if the gantry moves then the coil is good. The other thing that I forgot to mention and it might even be more plausible than the umbilical cable is the prox sensor cable or the sensor itself.....that is the yellow (at least mine are yellow) magnetic sensor that detects the metal flag ... there is one on the passenger side...the cable there could be bad or the eye sensor eye itself may need to be replaced. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[robblackburn]

Regarding the coils you can find out if it is that by placing the machine in manual mode and then covering the eye closest to the ground (assuming the gantry is in the down position) if the gantry moves then the coil is good. The other thing that I forgot to mention and it might even be more plausible than the umbilical cable is the proxy sensor cable or the sensor itself.....that is the yellow (at least mine are yellow) magnetic sensor that detects the metal flag ... there is one on the passenger side...the cable there could be bad or the eye sensor eye itself may need to be replaced. Let us know how it turns out.

I would still check the coils carefully. Just because the work once in manual mode does not mean that one of them does not heat up after running many cars back to back. I had the same problem and it would only happen on the busiest days after several hours of continuous use. If the coil is getting hot to the touch then replace. It is a cheap and easy thing to do then you can at least rule this out. Good luck.