I have done a little expirementing with 2 step presoak verses a double pass of Hi PH presoak and from what I can tell I don't think I clean any better with 2 step Hi/Lo PH presoak. I wanted to get others opinion of what they have found. From what I understand the Hi PH reacting with the Lo PH presoak is suppose to create some heat to help clean the vehicle. Doesn't mixing the two also neutralize the cleaning ability of the other?
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Does 2 step presoak clean better ?
- Thread starter sparkey
- Start date
2 passes of a high pH detergent gives you twice the dwell and twice the available chemical to handle the soil load. A pass of low pH only will help if you have mineral deposits or need a little more shine on metallic surfaces. When the two react, neutralization may give a little heat, but not much of any significance if the chemicals are already hot. You are right about the products neutralizing eachother. Your second product should titrate higher than your first if putting each on consecutively, or your second product is a waste.
robert roman
Bob Roman
Generally speaking, two-stage chemical application works better than one stage for “touch-less” wash process. However, this doesn’t necessarily apply to friction tunnels.
Last time I was in Denver (whoa, Seahawks), I found high-volume, touch-less tunnels using prep guns with acid (high-pressure) followed by alkaline arch, then acidic arch.
Here in Florida, many touch-less IBA at gas sites use one-stage alkaline to save money.
Last time I was in Denver (whoa, Seahawks), I found high-volume, touch-less tunnels using prep guns with acid (high-pressure) followed by alkaline arch, then acidic arch.
Here in Florida, many touch-less IBA at gas sites use one-stage alkaline to save money.
rph9168
Carwashguy
Two step will clean better when applied properly. How well a one step does or doesn't work in an area depends on what cleaning conditions exist. I have found in dryer, warm climates one steps tend to do better than in more humid, moderate or cold climates. I have seen two steps work in lo/hi or high/lo setups. Most use lo/hi. Some say that when bugs are an issue a hi/lo works best due to the fact that high pH products tend to work better on bugs than low pH ones so applying the high first and allowing it a little extra dwell time helps remove the bug residue. Some use the hi/lo setup in the warmer months and the lo/hi the remaining months while most seem to stick to one setup throughout the year.
There is no real heat conversion and there will always be a little neutralization occurring. For cleaning purposes a lot depends on the ambient temperature of the vehicle's surface, temperature of the solution, concentrations used and the dwell time. The key to getting the vehicle dry however is to make sure the surface of the vehicle is either on the acidic side or neutral when the drying agent is applied so it is important that you balance a two step accurately both for purposes of cleaning and drying. I don't believe there is only one way to achieve optimum results so I would recommend trying several different setups to see what works best for your equipment and area.
There is no real heat conversion and there will always be a little neutralization occurring. For cleaning purposes a lot depends on the ambient temperature of the vehicle's surface, temperature of the solution, concentrations used and the dwell time. The key to getting the vehicle dry however is to make sure the surface of the vehicle is either on the acidic side or neutral when the drying agent is applied so it is important that you balance a two step accurately both for purposes of cleaning and drying. I don't believe there is only one way to achieve optimum results so I would recommend trying several different setups to see what works best for your equipment and area.
