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ds 5000 stuck at bottom of arch

A

aca carwash 2

Member
I have a ds 5000 that went down in front and a passenger claims it hit their car, therefore they had to pull off the treadle. the gantry doesn't appear to be hit by looking at it. I hit reset button, nothing. I put on manual override it wont move. it has hydrolic fluid. any idea?
 
1. hydraulic low level switch fail or haudraulic level low.
2. hydraulic pump contactor overload tripped.
3. hydraulic breaker tripped
4. stop button fail in closed position
5. manual run switch fail
Many other I/O failures possible or pump problems or solenoid problems or sensor problems could cause it as described. Your description is missing way to much information to be of any further assistance. Like, for instance, does the pump turn on when the switch is put in manual mode? Your description just says 'won't move'. And 'has hydraulic fluid' I'm guessing means that you verified there is enough to satisfy the low level switch?
 
Pump comes on in manual override and stay on, just nothing moves when I cover the eye. When I hit the push stop button initially nothing. I car moved the cone while I was inside and the cw came on while gantry was down in front but didn't move.
JGinther said:
1. hydraulic low level switch fail or haudraulic level low.
2. hydraulic pump contactor overload tripped.
3. hydraulic breaker tripped
4. stop button fail in closed position
5. manual run switch fail
Many other I/O failures possible or pump problems or solenoid problems or sensor problems could cause it as described. Your description is missing way to much information to be of any further assistance. Like, for instance, does the pump turn on when the switch is put in manual mode? Your description just says 'won't move'. And 'has hydraulic fluid' I'm guessing means that you verified there is enough to satisfy the low level switch?
Click to expand...
 
There has been a solenoid inside the cabinet that's been leaking, actually there are two solenoid on the bottom inside of cabinet. Could that be anything. How do you know if the the eyes are bad?
 
Do you have the manual? Look up the inputs on the PLC and make sure the ones that are supposed to be lit up are. That will help confirm if there's an issue with the photo eyes or cable.

Is the solenoid leaking in the cabinet? The wiring to the solenoids on the hydraulic unit might have corroded. Fix stuff like that immediately.

The hydraulic unit gauge should be reading some pressure. Are the oscillator nozzles moving with the hydraulic unit running?
 
thanks for the replies guys. I spent all day Sunday fixing a Ds that had lost a screw on the shaft and come off track (first time in 13 years) finally got it up and going again.
Back to the one the young lady ran into Saturday.......I cannot put my hands on the manual. today after not touching since Sunday I put my hand on the eye and the gantry went to home. I did repair some wiring in the cord on Sunday but no luck then with the gantry moving. today on the pc in manual override on the in side, 0,4,5,27,10,11 are lit up. on the out side only 1 is lit up. after the gantry returned to hope I took off manual override and numbers 11 went out on the in side and 22 lite on the out and 1 is no longer lit. the gauge is reading about 400 psi on manual and the oscillator nozzles are moving. im perplexed. haven't run it yet.
 
I tried to run the car wash today, makes two passes of presoak fine, when pwerblast starts at rear of car it kinda skips, gantry moved to front of car on the point of descending arch and the blowers come on. I go inside and on the inlet side, 0,4,5,27, and 10 are lit. on he out side 26,27 are lit and 16 is blinking. when I hit reset, gantry goes to bottom of arch in front of car. could 16 relay be bad? its to the gantry......
 
Outputs are pretty meaningless when diagnosing. The 16 blinking is just flashing the exit sign.

If it "kinda skips," it needs the chain tightened or replaced.
 
Sounds like a counting prox problem causing the machine to get 'lost'. Could be a prox problem itself, adjustment, cable problem, or chain problem as suggested.
 
That's a possibility - the confirmation would be that before it gets to the end where it shuts down it will stop high on the rail on the opposite side, then it will bury itself in the springs and shut down for a stopped carriage.
 
The chain on the gantry was replaced 2 months ago and it was running like a dream. It's defenitsly a counting issue but I don't know where to start. As I mentioned in a previous post it all started about a week ago when it made two passes of presoak and the power blast came on in the rear, the gantry went to the front of the car at the bottom of the arch and began the tri gloss cycle and proceeded to move through all the cycles as the gantry never moved. Then the blowers came on while the gantry remained down in front of the car. Recently it's going through the pre soak function then the gantry moves to the front of the car and the blowers come on. It's seems like a timing issues. Anything I can try??
 
I would try checking the things mentioned first... Start with the prox: verify the light comes on every time metal gets in close proximity to the face of the sensor. Then check that the light on the input of the PLC is coming on and off at the same time. If the sensor seems fine, then the distance may need to set from the count wheel. If that is correct, you might have a wiring problem like a corroded wire junction. Lastly, if your control cable that connects the gantry to the wall has been damaged or caught, or if you have ever spliced anything in it, I would just replace it. You will be chasing around 'ghosts' forever, and be chasing off any good customers in the meantime. Also, 2 months on a new chain would mean its probably time to check/adjust it.
 
Next thought.... Thinking back about how you couldn't get the machine to move earlier, I bet you have a DC hot or DC common problem in the wiring to the gantry. This would explain both the sensor count problem and the eye input problem not lifting the machine back to home. I'm betting you have a damaged cable that you haven't told us about.
 
Thank you for the detailed reply, although I lost my key maintenance guy I'm trying my best to fix a lot of these things on my own, I'm not sure where the prox switches are to ck and when you say cable are you referring to the main electrical cord ? I have fixed all pumps, regulators and 35 washers and dryers in the laundry that were out of service when I took back over in January. It's very exciting that I have learned to fix things with help from this forum and google. The proxs are a little over my head and I did splice and repair 2 wires in the cord , I think they were ok but I repaired anyway. Can you give a little more detail, my ds distributor in my area went out of business 2 years ago. Thanks again
 
Where and why did you repair two wires in the cable? If the cable snagged on the bottom of the machine and you repaired it there or anywhere between the wall and the gantry, you should replace it. I have a technique to make the job fast and easy with a clean result if you're interested.
 
I think you should replace the cable first, then ask for more details... No sense wasting time... You can get some basic info on that stuff from the manual.
 
Guys, for the record it was two problems. The counting prox switch in the gantry was bad along with the sensors that measures up to the plate in the rear of the gantry. I replaced them both......the first three runs it did not run correctly on the rails, I think it had some history in the computer from the past 3-4 incorrect runs. On the fourth try it cleared out and has been running fine. Thanks for all your replies. Jginther, looks like you were on it.........
 
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