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Help Identify Changer Part

2Biz

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OK...Went to the wash this evening. Opened the changer/bill holder. A cap/resistor was lodged between a $1 and $5 dollar bill in the holder. It had to have fallen out of the top part of the bill holder somewhere??? Odd thing is the changer works as usual....Or will it????

Maybe someone could help a newb out....Picture attached:

 
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mac

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Would help if you told us what the make and model is. It looks like a capacitor with a resistor in series. Many times those are put in as preventative pieces for things like voltage spikes, so it could work fine till you retire the machine. I have gotten into a recent habit of removing pieces from machines that should not have been there to start with. I can remove two 5 gallon buckets worth of parts from a GinSan RO system and have it work just fine.
 

2Biz

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Sorry bout that...Its a Hamilton, Model #36-0036..Thats whats on the bill holder. The computor is a Model 12, s/n 711-4319-7382322...

Thats all I have written down at the moment. I didn't take the whole changer out of the enclosure to get more part numbers. According to the PO, it was rebuilt last year.
 

Randy

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#36-0036 is the part number for a Stacker. The parts pictured are from the inside of the stacker. I'm surprized it works with out them. You can run the changer without the Stacker by plugging in the stacker Bypass plug that's cable tried to the end of the stacker harness. Stackers aren't worth repairing.
 

2Biz

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I did some searching last night and found a schematic on Hamiltons website for the single stacker that I have. (Give me time to learn the buzz words!) The part in question is the Stacker Snubber kit. Maybe someone will know what it does??? Looks like it is soldered inline with the motor. Should be an easy fix now that I have the schematic...
 

MEP001

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It probably serves as a "soft start" for the motor, maybe so the contacts in the controller aren't overloaded.
 

1carwash1

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This circuit attenuates any A/C spikes from the motor. The motor is an inductive device which tends to generates spikes, especially when it is turned off. The capacitor blocks any DC current from flowing and the resistor limits the current flow. This is an important device because any A/C spikes bleeding back to the controller can cause intermittent operation and/or possibly damage the semiconductor P-N junctions. It needs to be replaced ASAP.
 

2Biz

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I took the stacker out last night and compared it to the Manual I found on Hamiltons website. I could only find one “Single Stacker” manual. Problem is, Mine has a cube-relay mounted under the (6) pin Molex connector that is not shown on the schematic. After taking the stacker apart, I couldn’t see where this cap/resistor was soldered in at. My Stacker wiring doesn’t match the schematic exactly, that’s why I’m on here again. Who knows how long the cap/resistor has NOT been doing its job, but I’d like to get it fixed anyway.

I’ve attached a .pdf of the schematic I found. My question, would I be safe in cutting into the Blue and White wire right off the Molex connector and solering in the cap/resistor the way its pictured? Since I don’t have an exact schematic to what I have, I’m hesitant, don’t want to fry my controller. Then again, maybe the cap/resistor was soldered into the exit side of the Molex and the broken connections are covered in shrinkwrap. Might need to look at it closer.

Another problem, my stacker doesn’t have a by-pass plug attached to the wiring like pictured in the manual. Am I missing something? Or maybe my s/n unit didn’t have that feature?

Again Hamilton Stacker Model 36-0036 s/n 608-0878

Maybe someone has an exact schematic. Maybe its not needed? Thanks for all the input up to now. It’s starting to make sense. Just need correct schematic or helps from experts.

Link to .PDF file:

http://bcoweb.com/photos/stacker_schematic.pdf

OR Link to complete manual I found on Hamiltons website:

http://hamiltonmfg2.site.aplus.net/pdf/101-0008.pdf
 
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I.B. Washincars

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Before you spend a ton of time and money screwing around with that thing, used stackers are a dime a dozen. Look around for one and just swap it out. 25 bucks would be a big price for one. So many have been yanked out to upgrade to a good validator they should be lying around in eq. rooms everywhere.
 

Jeff_L

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FWIW - make sure you have a spare before you do any cutting, soldering, etc.. I think I have a spare for nearly every component in my wash. Not because I'm smart, but because I tend to screw things up when I dig into things, so I've learned my lesson.
 

2Biz

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Thanks, I'll take you up on that! PM sent...

I pullled the validator and I have an XE version 3.02 (P) p/n 46-4001
s/n 0303-06440 Rebuilt less than a year ago by Hamilton....

I looked for the bypass plug and its not there. Maybe the PO has it stashed somewhere. I'll have to give him a call....

I totally agree with your comments. I was going to do exactly as your suggestions. Thats why I buttoned it back up when I found the schematic didn't match my wiring. I'm not afraid to tackle anything, just like to be smart about it. I'll cut into mine when I have a spare. Thanks... ;)
 

MEP001

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The bypass plug should be zip-tied to the cable that plugs into the stacker. It's a single socket with one purple wire that loops to two terminals.
 

2Biz

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I looked and the bypass plug is not attached to the incoming cable to the stacker. Someone has taken it off for some reason. I went thru all the drawers in the ER last night looking for it, but turned up nothing. I will call the PO to see if he knows what it is or if he has it. Otherwise I'll try to source elsewhere. Thanks for explaining how it works, Mep...It would be easy to make if I knew which wires were looped....And IF I could find the exact Molex connector....Would be easier to buy the plug! ;)
 

MEP001

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It should be easy enough to order from Hamilton or maybe even Kleen-Rite. If they try to charge you some ridiculous amount, let me know and I'll make you one and drop it in the mail. I have all the parts and tools.
 

Randy

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The Stacker Bypass plug is part #48-0033A costs $5.25. If you want to make up your own jumper plug you need to jumper the White wire with the Black tracer too the Brown wire on the harness plug. I might have a Bypass plug floating around here.

I bought a Stacker on Ebay awhile back for One Penny with Free Shipping. The guy was ****ed that no one else bid on it and he had to send it to me for a Penny.
 

2Biz

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I had found the P/N on Hamiltons website this morning...I was going to give them a call and order it since it is so reasonable. No need to worry about making it.

Thanks for all the help on this minor issue. Definately a confidence builder on my part. Its helping me to get a DB started on where all these CW parts are located. I'm feeling a little better than I did 2 weeks ago. ;)
 
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