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Led 6 timer

O

Ontario Car Wash

Member
Showed up today
How rinse running in bay
All the functions run with no money
Open timer not sure what it is but square piece burnt
There r two small square things side by side
The one is fried
?????
Scared to put another one in roasted two thus far same square tab
Took bad one to another bay and all functions work with no money

Thanks
 
If the magic smoke came out of 2 timers, same bay, I'd start with checking the voltage of the transformer. From there make sure you don't have a solenoid coil shorted out. Or possibly wiring shorted out....You can disconnect each solenoid and bring them back online one at a time. If you don't know how to use a multimeter and ohm meter, you'll be using your timer as a Pawn, but it will point you to the problem.
 
It's probably not the transformer, but it's the place to start.

Add a 1 amp fuse off the transformer and check each function until it blows the fuse.
 
All my bays are chained to one transformer
I have 24v to orange wire
I noticed the three ground wire pigtail had green death I cleaned that up.
The led 6 keeps blowing that black tab thing on board there's two side by side
If I just plug led ,6 in it's ok till I go to hpsoap or rinse and pow.
Would the dial cause this
 
Etowah
Those are probably capacitors or diodes. You have a short or something wired wrong. It sounds like you are getting 120v.(or more) being feed to the timer.
 
If all bays are wired to a single transformer put a 1 amp fuse between the hot wire of the problem bay and the transformer. At least this will help you identify the problem without blowing another timer. Disconnect rinse and soap and see if the fuse blows switching to all other functions. Then hook rinse up, then soap, etc... Fuses are a lot cheaper to replace than timers.

If you find either rinse or soap as the issue, you can disconnect the soap and rinse wires from the switch and control panel in the er, and check continuity of each wire to ground, this might also help find the issue.
 
My guess would be the motor contactor coil is shorted or more likely hooked up wrong if it was just changed, since it's the only thing soap and rinse have in common.

It's probably not the switch since just grounding the hot side shouldn't be enough to burn the timer up, although I could be wrong there. A large transformer like that might have enough current to do that. I'm accustomed to each bay having its own 100 VA transformer, and grounding the hot side just makes the timer display go out.

The "black tab thing" is probably the triac - it's the transistor relay that switches the output. Dixmor can repair the damaged timers very cheap.
 
Every time I have had a Dixmor timer do that was because of a bad solenoid coil. I had it happen when a hp soap solenoid coil shorted and once when I had taken the coil off the rinse solenoid to do some troubleshooting. Lesson learned there, don’t take coil off solenoid and energize it.
 
Been thinking all day retracing my steps
I think I took the coin mechanism out in the ground is under that held under that with a little screwed maybe I ran it and didn't put that ground down to see if it would work when I went in the office and grabbed another coin mechanism and put it in because I thought to myself oh I'm brilliant much for the coian excepter
Then I ran it that day with the LED 6 already being fried obviously not having a grounded in the Box because some sort of chaos wouldn't
And running it all day with LED 6 fried the burn up my Transformer
Any thoughts
Waiting for it to slow down start probing
 
It wouldn't be any ground issue with the coin acceptor, not if it's burning up the timer when you select soap or rinse.

You clearly have a short in something, or something miswired. Did you try suggestions such as checking the solenoids or adding a 1 amp fuse? Have you changed the motor contactor recently?
 
If the timer is burned up to where it’s always on and you burned up your 24 volt transformer, there is definitely a short on the 24 vac side of the system. The ground you are talking about shouldn’t be the issue. I would get a meter set to ohms and start checking solenoid coils after they are disconnected. If one has little or no resistance compared to the others, it is suspect. Make sure none are loose on the stems either. If you were messing with the wiring before this happened, it may be that you inadvertently created a short. If not, it is probably a shorted solenoid coil.
 
How do i check solenoid please...I got a bunch lying around plus I need to check the one in question
Thanks
I'm sure I did something stupid
I know I was messing with harness and connections in a hurry that day. I'm sure I bumped a wire running back and forth in a panic. All my connections read 24, I'm certain solenoid is ok. Could u blow something by touching probes on tester to something backwards. I was touching everything with those things.
I'll try the fuse hopefully this am
 
So here it is
In The Hectic mess that day when I took the LED 6 is apart I put the cap on backwards therefore the harness went on backwards therefore pop crack boom
So I tried your 1:00 amp fuse trick today thank you
And when I went to soak brush blew it change the soap brush solenoid good
Move to high pressure soap boom booster high pressure wax boom
How do I bench test a solenoid
So in all my haste and I put the harness on backwards none-the-less I fried a couple of things
 
Okay talk to the guys at dixmor he believes the foam brush solenoids what was frying it so I told him put a 3 amp fuse in there for the high-pressure options and where it go solenoids are good just was drawn more than one amp high pressure but the phome brusht solenoid was
definitely Fried
And that wire in the Box was green death plus I'm sure I bumped it again something at some point in time or maybe just the solenoid decided to fry
Anyways thanks much for the help off to divide and conquer
 
Ontario Car Wash said:
Okay talk to the guys at dixmor he believes the foam brush solenoids what was frying it so I told him put a 3 amp fuse in there for the high-pressure options and where it go solenoids are good just was drawn more than one amp high pressure but the phome brusht solenoid was
definitely Fried
And that wire in the Box was green death plus I'm sure I bumped it again something at some point in time or maybe just the solenoid decided to fry
Anyways thanks much for the help off to divide and conquer
Click to expand...

What in the heck are you talking about?
 
You can do an ohm test, but you have to know what the solenoid should read. You can take a known good one and check the ohms, then check the potentially bad one.

You can also use a multimeter with an amperage setting and a small 24v transformer. When you "short" the circuit closed with the meter probes (Make sure the coil is on a complete solenoid) you should read a very low amperage, not 5 or 10 or 20.

If you're just using a voltmeter, it's not likely you'd blow something unless you dead-short something with one of the probes. That wouldn't cause a solenoid to fail, that was likely your problem all along.

I suggested a 1 amp fuse so you wouldn't accidentally fry another timer with a bad solenoid. 3 to 5 amp is usually fine.
 
I talked to the guy at dixmor he suggested going to a 3 amp fuse because the hp options may use a bit more than 1amp
the solenoids were ok on hpwax and hpsoap but the foam brush was fried
in the meter box my ground had green death but i also think maybe in my haste i crossed the foam brush wire and maybe fried the solenoid
as mep001 said i think i fried it when i was trying to be an electrician and probing everything
sorry talk to text
 
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