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Motor replacement

S

slash007

Well-known member
When replacing a motor, there are many specs listed. What spec tells me the spacing of the bolts? I want to make sure whatever replacement I get will fit in the exact same space. What other specs do I have to match up if I am getting a different model #?
 
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If you're referring to the bolt pattern of the mount base, ordering a motor of the same frame size will guarantee the same layout.
 
MEP001 said:
If you're referring to the bolt pattern of the mount base, ordering a motor of the same frame size will guarantee the same layout.
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Good info. I did mean the bolt pattern, just slipped my mind when I was typing the post. Are there any other specs that matter if I am replacing a 5hp 3 phase motor with another that is 5hp 3 phase?
 
RPM's
Also....should either have (or not have) thermal overload. It sounds like a pump stand motor to me. Usually, the motor contactor will provide the overcurrent protectection....so you probably will NOT need a motor with thermal protection.
 
slash007 said:
Good info. I did mean the bolt pattern, just slipped my mind when I was typing the post. Are there any other specs that matter if I am replacing a 5hp 3 phase motor with another that is 5hp 3 phase?
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If you're referring to only the bolt pattern, then yes, the frame size between different brands will always bolt up exactly the same. Frame size includes the shaft size. All other specs need to match up separately: RPM, horsepower, enclosure type, voltage, etc. You can usually find a cross-reference match to a different brand from the model number of the one you have, but it's easier to shop by matching up the specs, for example if you have a TEFC and can get by with an open dripproof, it would be a lot cheaper.
 
MEP001 said:
If you're referring to only the bolt pattern, then yes, the frame size between different brands will always bolt up exactly the same. Frame size includes the shaft size. All other specs need to match up separately: RPM, horsepower, enclosure type, voltage, etc. You can usually find a cross-reference match to a different brand from the model number of the one you have, but it's easier to shop by matching up the specs, for example if you have a TEFC and can get by with an open dripproof, it would be a lot cheaper.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at a motor of the same brand. Frames match up, but wasn't sure if there were minimums I needed to get regarding RPM etc to ensure it will work as a good replacement for a pump stand.
 
anything in the 1700-1800 rpm range is the same as far as the rpm's. They're all 4 pole motors. If you are just needing bearings just mark the end bells with a sharpie so you get the motor put back like it was and start taking out bolts. It is simple really, if the motor still runs and does not trip the overloads it probably just needs bearings. Sometimes that bearing type is on the tag and sometimes it's not. Either way it's on the bearings themselves. Sometimes a little heat then you can get them off with a hammer and punch and sometimes you need a puller. Just take it apart and if you are having trouble go to your local napa store and they will have a puller and have the replacement bearings. They are just standard bearings. Don't get to hung up on the details of the brand bearings etc. If it fits it will be fine. Personally i put in sealed bearings and plug off the grease zerk holes. Keep in your mind that in this type of 3 phase motor there are no moving parts and nothing at all to screw up in there except bearings. They are 10-30 dollars per bearing.
 
slash007 said:
I'm looking at a motor of the same brand. Frames match up, but wasn't sure if there were minimums I needed to get regarding RPM etc to ensure it will work as a good replacement for a pump stand.
Click to expand...

As long as it's the same frame, voltage, and RPM range it should work OK
 
I know a guy who's got a bunch of the Baldor motor that are prefect for the car wash. I think they are 5 hp.
 
MEP001 said:
You want a sealed, permanently lubricated bearing. They use the cheapest ones when they build the motor.
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Are sealed bearings all permanently lubricated since they are sealed? Also, because of my ignorance regarding greasing motors and asking the wrong people, I put way too much grease in all of my motors. What is my best/worst case scenario now? 2 already have a loud whining noise and need bearings, but 2-3 others have a knocking noise that sounds like something is loose in the motor.
 
Etowah
A sealed and permanently lubricated bearing won't have a way to be re-greased. There are sealed bearings that allow excess grease to leak out, but you don't want that. Motors with greaseable bearings have a plug in the bottom that you remove to allow the excess grease to purge, which the small Baldor motors don't have.

If you attempt to replace bearings, you'll want to clean the excess grease out of it while you have it apart.

If the motor is knocking and it's not the bearings, it's beyond repair.
 
Is there a way to attach an audio file? I wanted to upload a file of the noise a couple motors are making. Sounds more like something loose rattling than a knocking sound.
 
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