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Questions about dual port Hydrominder

OurTown

Well-known member
We have this kit on our presoak Hydrominder that JBS installed about two years ago.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-39346-e-gap-dual-port-35gpm-kit.aspx

Throughout most times of the year we are using purple tips on both our booster and presoak. In spring we use an Auqua tip on the presoak. If the presoak tip gets partially clogged then could it pull in more booster than it normally would making the ratio incorrect but still titrate correctly? The reason I ask is that sometimes the color in the tank varies a fair bit. After two years could the eductor need replacing? It looks like they only sell it in this $75 kit.
 
This can get confusing. Color isn't a good indicator of correct dilution. Having stocked and sold many brands over the years I've noticed that at times the manufacturers simply change colors. Doing surfactant flow tests and titration are the only rel way to tell. And my guess on a dual injector is that if one clogs up it should not make the other change. With injectors like you have the water pressure will change it all the time. On a Saturday when everyone is home doing dishes, washing cars in the driveway, and laundry, the city pressure drops. Sometimes lot.
 
This can get confusing. Color isn't a good indicator of correct dilution. Having stocked and sold many brands over the years I've noticed that at times the manufacturers simply change colors. Doing surfactant flow tests and titration are the only rel way to tell. And my guess on a dual injector is that if one clogs up it should not make the other change. With injectors like you have the water pressure will change it all the time. On a Saturday when everyone is home doing dishes, washing cars in the driveway, and laundry, the city pressure drops. Sometimes lot.


Good points. The color can change sometimes while on the same bucket though. Our pressure does drop a lot when our Cat 3535 kicks on so that could be part of the issue. How do you perform a surfactant flow test?
 
In the early days of the hyper-concentrates I used to run a 600:1 foam brush dual tip "system" that was nothing more than a bunch of plastic fittings cobbled together with an extra Hydrominder stub and tip in it to draw mostly from the already diluted stock rather than to have to dilute by hand, and it worked perfectly. I would do that with a dual chemical setup before spending some $80 on a kit.
 
In the early days of the hyper-concentrates I used to run a 600:1 foam brush dual tip "system" that was nothing more than a bunch of plastic fittings cobbled together with an extra Hydrominder stub and tip in it to draw mostly from the already diluted stock rather than to have to dilute by hand, and it worked perfectly. I would do that with a dual chemical setup before spending some $80 on a kit.


I understand the idea but can't picture it in practice. Where did you install the extra stub/tip in this system?
 
The Hydro kit's yellow eductor is an e-gap type. Is that just you don't have to cut an anti-siphon hole in the discharge tube?
 
I understand the idea but can't picture it in practice. Where did you install the extra stub/tip in this system?
This was for a standard 507 Hydrominder, it was just a couple of nipples, a tee and an elbow, the tee had the extra stub that pulled from the mixed stock and the concentrate pulled from the stub at the end. Scotch Plaid has a sheet that details it but I couldn't find it.
 
This was for a standard 507 Hydrominder, it was just a couple of nipples, a tee and an elbow, the tee had the extra stub that pulled from the mixed stock and the concentrate pulled from the stub at the end. Scotch Plaid has a sheet that details it but I couldn't find it.


So it sounds like basically you are teeing off the chemical concentrate input on the eductor to have two stubs/tips. Is that correct?
 
We are doing something similar with injecting scent with our JBS Shine Time. (should not have to do this with any chemical in my opinion) The 1/4" tubing from the Hydrominder (with no tip in the stub) has a tee splitting the hoses with one going to the scent and the other going to the wax. Near the tee on each side there are push in tips just shoved in the tubing.
 
Good points. The color can change sometimes while on the same bucket though. Our pressure does drop a lot when our Cat 3535 kicks on so that could be part of the issue. How do you perform a surfactant flow test?
Fairly easy. First get a graduated cylinder like you used in high school chemistry. Pour some of your concentrate into it and record the level. Next give a little tug on the float to insure the tank is full. Then turn off the water supply to the unit and siphon out one or two gallons. Two is better if the tank holds it. Next put the chemical suction hose with foot valve into the cylinder. Turn the water back on and let the tank fill. Then note the level of the cylinder. Then simple math to get dilution ratio.
 
Fairly easy. First get a graduated cylinder like you used in high school chemistry. Pour some of your concentrate into it and record the level. Next give a little tug on the float to insure the tank is full. Then turn off the water supply to the unit and siphon out one or two gallons. Two is better if the tank holds it. Next put the chemical suction hose with foot valve into the cylinder. Turn the water back on and let the tank fill. Then note the level of the cylinder. Then simple math to get dilution ratio.


That's a great way to check the ratios and would be really good to check both at the same time if dual injecting. What size cylinder do you use? It looks like some might be too small to get the foot valve down into. Would it be as accurate if you took the foot valves off and drained the lines first?
 
That's a great way to check the ratios and would be really good to check both at the same time if dual injecting. What size cylinder do you use? It looks like some might be too small to get the foot valve down into. Would it be as accurate if you took the foot valves off and drained the lines first?
You can find them online easily. I use ones that are about 2” wide and 12” tall. Most are graduated in ml. There’s roughly 30 ml to the ounce.
 
You can find them online easily. I use ones that are about 2” wide and 12” tall. Most are graduated in ml. There’s roughly 30 ml to the ounce.


Sounds about the size of a 250ml and initially I thought they looked large but it is probably a good size and plenty accurate.
 
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