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Spot Free System Maintenance

washregal

Member
I have had in recent months customer complaints on my spot free system.

the spot Free is not spot free. I am not that familiar with these types of systems. How often does the membrane need to be replaced or cleaned?

If there are filters.. how often do they need to be adjusted or replaced.
If these are replaced would this typically clear up these issues of spotting?
 
I was told to change out my filters about once a year. I wouldn't rely on that too heavily though. I would buy a water test kit and check my TDS and make sure they are within range. That is what I do. I haven't had any complaints yet.
 
With most systems, there is a carbon tank (to remove the chlorine) a prefilter to stop any large particles, then the membrane. A bad prefilter won't affect the quality, it will only get clogged and stop flow. The activated carbon gets depleted over time, and chlorine will destroy the typical TFC membrane.

First, check your softener. RO quality is affected somewhat with the quality of the supply, and hard water will usually raise the TDS (Total dissolved solids) in the RO product.

Second, test the RO product quality. You can get a TDS meter from Kleen-Rite for about $50. Most will say 50 ppm is too much; my opinion is 30. Make sure to test the product straight from the system, then test the water in the tank or at a bay. You may have a failed check valve letting soap flow back to contaminate it.

If you determine the membrane is bad, test the carbon filter. The best way is to get a sample from the RO reject, since it will concentrate the chlorine and make it show more easily. You can use a pool and spa test kit or strips you can get from any home improvement store. I prefer to replace the carbon whenever I replace a menbrane, but you should at least check to see if chlorine was the cause of the membrane failing.
 
Bubbles Galore said:
I was told to change out my filters about once a year.
I've had manufacturers say the prefilter should be changed once a month. Most of the better quality systems have two gauges on the prefilter so you can read a pressure drop as it gets clogged. I just changed ours for the first time in five years because it took that long to show a drop. Prefilters aren't like air filters in a car - performance isn't affected as the filter slowly clogs, and filtration is improved as particles fill the flow cavities and the pathways are made smaller.
 
I'm not sure if this is the recommended method or not, but I rent mine from Culligan. It's a three tank system (one of them is charcoal) that has a little light in the output line. If it's lit, conductivity is good, when it goes out, it's time to change out the tanks.
 
You have a DI system, not RO. It doesn't produce the same quality as an RO system with a good TFC membrane, and in the long run it will cost you more to operate than owning an RO system.
 
Jeff L, if you are dealing with Culligan you are paying at least twice as much as most suppliers. You are also trapped with Culligan equipment, much of which is proprietary for parts and service. I would tell them to come get their stuff and buy a reverse osmosis setup.
 
mac said:
You are also trapped with Culligan equipment, much of which is proprietary for parts and service.
There is nothing to a Culligan DI system but some tanks which are not in any way proprietary. For what they charge to rent their systems and change out the tanks, you could not do it yourself in the same manner.
 
MEP001, I my have posted too quickly. My experience with Culligan here in FL if that they like to set up customers on a 5 year lease. By the time the lease is up, the customer has pais about 2 to 3 times what he could have bought a system for. Jeff L, how much are you paying for the rent/lease and is there a minimum time you are locked in for? One of my customers got into a 5 year lease and spent slightly over $5,000 for a softener during that time. He has a 5 bay self serve. I sell softeners for those site at around $1,200.
 
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