Superior Fan Removal

[washtubman]

One of my 15 HP motors went out today on my Superior Spirit dryer. My question is: How does the fan come off the motor? If someone has performed this task, I sure would like to know the procedure. Also, did someone take over Superior? Thanks.

 

[MEP001]

It probably has a hub bushing like most of them. If you can see an individual metal hub with three bolts in it and three threaded holes with no bolts, just remove the bolts from where they are and tighten them into the threaded holes. That will push the fan off the hub. Be sure to go around and around tightening the bolts evenly as you drive the fan off the bearing and spray it with some penetrating lube.

 

[Buzzie8]

It's funny just last week I tried to remove a fan from the motor on Jim Coleman. I followed the instructions from the previous post (and also used a propane torch to heat). All three bolt heads broke off. I ended up taking down to my motor shop and they said three things, use new bolts for the removal, use heat, and also that my "key" had a set screw that holds it in that needed loosened first. I told them that was the fourth time I tried and the fourth time I broke the bolts. I never knew about the set screw. This doesn't mean that yours has one but you should check.

 

[Tom Thumb]

Be sure to get some grade 8# bolts for removing the hub or they will break have been through that several times.
The previous owners of superior have started a new company will try to get name and let you know.

 

[Tom Thumb]

New superior company is Dryer Pros.

 

[MEP001]

They probably used stainless screws so they wouldn't rust. Yes, they're too soft to push the fan off.

The set-screw holds the bushing on the shaft, not the fan on the bushing. Yes, you need to loosen it to get the bushing off the motor, if it was tightened when the fan was installed.

 

[RykoPro]

Best to soak it all down with liquid wrench and then chase the threads before trying to remove the taperlock bushing.

 

[mac]

This is another case wher if the manufacturer had put 20 cents worth on Never Sieze on it, it would be a non issue. But no one does this.

 

[Washmee]

This is another case wher if the manufacturer had put 20 cents worth on Never Sieze on it, it would be a non issue. But no one does this.

Wrong, wrong, wrong! Do not use never sieze on a taper-lock bushing. It creates a hydraulic lock and makes things worse! Thats the reason its never done!

 

[washtubman]

Got the new motor on today and dryer is again working! Thanks to everyone for their help. Also, called Dryer Pros about a couple items; they were very helpful and glad to help. Sure wouldn't want to buy those motors very often!!

 

[MEP001]

Any idea why it failed?

To make sure the motor is getting good voltage, the connections should be lugs and not wire nuts. A weak connection on one leg can cause the windings to overheat when it starts.

 

[washtubman]

Not sure why it failed. The connections looked good, but it smelled burnt and kept tripping the breaker when it tried to start. It is a Baldor about 10 years old. First problem in that time, so maybe lucky?? The connections are wire nuts; so maybe I should do the lugs. The Ford dealership let me borrow their motor lift for the install and that made it easier (not easy, but easier!).

 

[Tom Thumb]

If this is first problem in 10 years I would feel good about that.

I have my motors rebuilt by local shop for about $ 275.00.

 

[MEP001]

If the motor is burned, it probably needs to be rewound, and that's not really worth doing (It usually costs almost as much as a new motor). You can replace a noisy bearing and get good life out of a motor, but that's as far as I'd go.

 

[BayWatch]

If you use the bolts to remove the taper lock / hub it also helps to clean the other set of threads first. I use a tap and some fluid to get the rust and gunk out so the bolts aren't having to fight threw. This will help from breaking the bolts. Also, and I know everyone won't have access to this, but I do and is why I tried it in the first place, a jackhammer is very effective at separating the impeller from the hub. If I'm lucky, I can lay the jackhammer on top of a ladder and after removing the bolts, a few quick knocks from the jackhammer will separate the two. I then can use a gear puller to remove the hub from the motor shaft. And I have a few extra hands for safety. It is a lot easier if you can lower the blower and housing to the ground first. This may be overkill for some, but we have seven tunnels with at least 6-9 motors per store. We also have a forklift, but if you rented a lift and jackhammer, the cost is worth the time saved, labor saved and headache avoided.