Trough Heat With Water Heater

[sparkey]

How do you plumb up trough heat with a water heater. I have a 30 gallon water heater and a circulation pump. I am not sure how to plumb it up so I can fill it and get the air out. I currently have my trough heat on my floor heat but would like to change it.

 

[MEP001]

If you're using small tubing (1/4 or 3/8") you won't have an issue with air in the lines. You should be able to add a valve to the outlet to let the tank fill and purge and keep city pressure on the inlet so it can heat effectively.

 

[car washing systems inc]

I would remove the drain on the tank and install the pump there, then i would install the expansion tank on the top of the tank marked hot, then i would bring thye return back to the tank marked cold, install a boiler drain on the return line and one in front of the pump and fill at the pump and purge back into a pail from the return line, install a t-stat to controll the pump. If you have to buy a heater you dont need a 30 gal tank we use a 6 gal 6kw heater and it works great.

 

[Buzzie8]

I just finished my project three days ago. I segregated my trough heat from my floor heat. I plumbed it a bit differently though. I put the expansion tank on the cold inlet side (this is what the hot water heater manual said to do). I used a 6 gallon tank and Johnson A419 temperature control for a thermostat because you can run a lead up far into the trough unlike most bulb type thermostats. I plumbed a faucet fixture and after filling the tank with a 50-50 anti freeze, I put a hose on the faucet fixture and turned the water on. I am still unclear if I have air in the line but I have been able to get the trough above freezing. Sure would like to know if it is running as efficient as it should be. I might breakdown and buy an air water separator from grainger to ensure no air. You should read the previous posts from last week.

 

[Bill Manke]

Mine is just plumbed from my hot water heater for my wash. I just use a circulating pump and pump the water through the lines back into the main water tank. Only problem would be if the power went out and froze it but it is all rubber hose.

 

[Earl Weiss]

I have an 8 Bay. 2 on one side of the equip room and 6 on the other. There is a T on the exit side of the water heater with one loop to each side with the returns joining at the supply side of the water heater in fron of the circulating pump on the supply side so the circulating pump sucks from the pays and pushes into the heater.

Circulating pump is connected to a thermostat in the trough.

Below the pump, but before the water heater is another T which connects to an expansion tank. Perhaps with fewer bays one is not needed.

Above the pump, but below the supply returns there is another T with a valve and then the 1/2 valve is increased to a 4 inch PVC fitting sitting verticaly. This is used for the fill. With the pump running I fill from this fitting. The pump will suck it in and if any air returns it will gurgle out thru there. I keep filling until itwon't suck any more. Then shut the valve.

I use 50/50 AF.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

BM, why don't you add a NO solenoid to save you if the power fails?