Two-step Presoaks

[copperglobe]

Have touchless automatics and we currently use only one-step/high ph presoak. If we were to modify and start using two-step presoaks (low ph then high ph) what would we notice as a result? Would it clean the windshield glass better by removing the eyebrows/masking/up around the edges? How about chrome? How about those black, dark blue, dark brown cars that haven't washed in several storms? How about the film that is quite often left on surfaces in a touchless automatic? Using the low ph would there be premature wearing of the calcium in the concrete?

Thanks,

 

[kentadel]

I have washes using a single high ph and washes using a 2 step low/high. Soils/hardness/rural/customer base are all factors in cleaning vehicles. As a rule from my experience you should see a better result with a 2 step process. Window mask is tough on any wash, even friction. My suggestion is to mix a recommended dilution of sample products in a spray bottle and simulate a presoak application, with a dwell time, rinse and check results.

 

[sparkey]

I tried 2 step with a couple different soap manufactures. I thought the vehicles looked worse than a double pass of hi ph. I quit using the 2 step. I thought the low PH made stuff in the bay rust more though.

 

[Jeff_L]

I use two step, wouldn't do anything different as the customers enjoy the outcome. Concerning the film, that's just plain tough to get off in a touch less. Usually I ask the customer when the last time they washed it by hand was, usually the answer is that they can't remember. I then explain the regiment that I recommend, hand wash today, then the next 2-3 washes use the automatic, then hand wash, etc. this seems to keep the buildup of film from occurring.

 

[MEP001]

I tried 2 step with a couple different soap manufactures. I thought the vehicles looked worse than a double pass of hi ph. I quit using the 2 step. I thought the low PH made stuff in the bay rust more though.

You should be able to get a car clean with a 2-step process. The problems are doing it safely and at an acceptable cost. Yes, low pH will corrode or rust anything faster that will corrode or rust in water anyway.

 

[carwashireland]

After operating for 6 x years on 1 x step pre soak I tried 2 x step. Low first then high. Now I have converted all my iba's to 2 step. I now dont think any touchless wash should be single step. If you get the right products, right strengths and right dwell times you will get a fantastic clean.

 

[wash12]

After operating for 6 x years on 1 x step pre soak I tried 2 x step. Low first then high. Now I have converted all my iba's to 2 step. I now dont think any touchless wash should be single step. If you get the right products, right strengths and right dwell times you will get a fantastic clean.

What product have you found to be the best for touchless pre soaks? I am having trouble getting the cars cleans especially bugs off the windows, any help would be great and also how much dwell time are you using and do you dwell inbetween low and high pre soaks?

 

[carwashireland]

What product have you found to be the best for touchless pre soaks? I am having trouble getting the cars cleans especially bugs off the windows, any help would be great and also how much dwell time are you using and do you dwell inbetween low and high pre soaks?

I am using all Whiting Systems products. First is smart brite low pH on pass 1 with an 8 second dwell time, then Tornado Extreme for high pH with a 15 second dwell before washing. The smart brite is about half the strength of the tornado when I titrate it.
I have also added a 55 gal drum at the wash entrance with some weak soap and a brush for customers to prep bugs if they want. Lastly I added a self serve bug prep (from tss signs) which customers can use to pre spray bugs if they want (chemical for this is brilliance). Not many actually bother using the brush and prespray though and we get a great clean! Before you try these products though, make sure you titrate your soap you are currently using so you know how strong it needs to be to get clean cars. Then when you set up the new products, change the tips until you get a similar titration! Otherwise you are just testing blindly!

 

[robert roman]

When removing dirt, its best to first match the type of cleaner to the cleaning task.

For example, dirt in the Rocky Mountain Region comes mostly from metamorphic rock and sedimentary rocks formed by deposition (i.e. limestone).

So, what works well for touch-less in another state like Ohio or Missouri may not work well in Rocky Mountains area.

The last time I was in Colorado, I got to spend time at several touch-less tunnels in Denver. They were heavily into acidic cleaners.

I know because I got dermatitis on parts of my face just from spending time in wash bays and mechanical rooms.

Cleaned great but tough on vehicle paint and significant corrosion damage to concrete and equipment.

Although it might take a couple of years, continual cleaning with aggressive touch-less (acidic or alkaline) will breakdown the clearcoat finish.

Under a paint magnifier, the damage looks like microscopic paint chips. When it gets real bad, the paint will have a faded look and wax won’t help much.

So, I would hook up with authorized dealer and/or chemical rep that have the experience and skill sets to match the type of cleaner to the cleaning task.