Water running back into holding tank

[slash007]

I have a JC super saver and noticed this morning that it was overflowing. It is doing it slowly, so I am guessing that the weep water is somehow running back into the tank. It is probably easy to figure out, but I can't seem to process it. What is the likely cause? It is the hot water holding tank that is used for soap/wax/presoak. I figure maybe it's a check valve, but the only ones connected to the HP line are the spot free and tire cleaner. I checked the SF lines and no water is running in them, and if the TC was the issue, wouldn't the water run back into the TC tank? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Randy]

You more than likely have a bad check somewhere in the weep system. This is the only check valve we use https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1766-fluid-controls-14-telfon-hp.aspx I can't remember when we had to replace one. The brass ones seem to fail after a few years.

 

[slash007]

Those are what I have been buying, I already ordered 22 more for my other wash. The only check valves that I see for the weep are where the weep lines plug into the pumps. But those are to prevent the HP wash from running back in to the weep. Where else would there be a cv?

 

[soapy]

In certain locations that use a hard 3/8 Of tube I use John Guest push lock check valves with good luck.

 

[DiamondWash]

Have you checked your float valve for the hot water holding tank for leakage, I just had that same issue wasn't much but it caused my tank to overflow.

 

[2Biz]

Surely there is a CV between the weep CV and the HP pump? If not there should be.

 

[slash007]

Surely there is a CV between the weep CV and the HP pump? If not there should be.

there is, but that is so HP water doesn't run back into the weep. I haven't checked my float valve, just assumed is was the weep since the valve is only 3 weeks old and the issue started when the weep kicked on. Could be a coincidence, I'll try to check it. It's a Hudson valve, so hard to check.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Slash, the weep is probably running back through the pump and into the holding tank. You need a check valve after the HP regulator and before where the weep tees in.

 

[2Biz]

Rihht....you need 2 checks. 1 on weep and one on hp to keep weep from backfeeding weep through the pump.

 

[MEP001]

The check valve that keeps the weep from backing up into the tank is under the tank. There's a manifold for each bay with soap, wax and rinse all coming together under the check valve. I have had to replace a check valve there, and rather than shut most of the wash down and disassemble four bays worth of plumbing I just cut the nipple at the check valve and put it back together with a union.

 

[slash007]

The check valve that keeps the weep from backing up into the tank is under the tank. There's a manifold for each bay with soap, wax and rinse all coming together under the check valve. I have had to replace a check valve there, and rather than shut most of the wash down and disassemble four bays worth of plumbing I just cut the nipple at the check valve and put it back together with a union.

I totally forgot about that check valve. Has to be one of them that is bad. When I left, the tank had held stead for a bit, so the leak must be very minor. I will just keep an eye on it for now.

Thanks everyone that chimed in.

 

[pgrzes]

The check valve that keeps the weep from backing up into the tank is under the tank. There's a manifold for each bay with soap, wax and rinse all coming together under the check valve. I have had to replace a check valve there, and rather than shut most of the wash down and disassemble four bays worth of plumbing I just cut the nipple at the check valve and put it back together with a union.

I like that idea!! I dont understand why Coleman puts them together the way they do? They should come from factory with either a union or a non working swivel in there somewhere! I have been lucky not having any real issues with mine YET! But my idea when I do have to do something with it was to put a swivel in. I will heed the advice to get out the sawzall and hack away. Thanks.

 

[2Biz]

I don't understand why Coleman puts them together the way they do?

Sometimes I wonder if "ANY" of the manufacturers actually run what they sell! Sounds like the Coleman Pump Stands are like the Old Mark VII stands! Almost impossible to work on and so complex, it takes years to understand how they work! Maybe that's the intent... They had Service Contracts in mind!

It took me awhile in the beginning to figure out why my float tanks were over-flowing with the weep running...Who would have guessed my back-flow CV was embedded inside the Giant Unloader!

 

[2Biz]

Sometimes we need to simplify things when the original equipment becomes an issue and is very hard to service. Like the Giant Unloaders on the Mark VII pump stand...They are such a pain in the A$$ to work on...Here's my solution when the next one fails...2 serviceable 3/8" CV's and an easy to service regulator!

 

[cwguy.com]

Sounds like the Coleman Pump Stands are like the Old Mark VII stands!

LOL.... No.... The Coleman pump stand is nothing like the Mark 7 stand. The Mark 7 stands are unique.... they are over engineered. BTW I also have both stands.

 

[cwguy.com]

I like that idea!! I dont understand why Coleman puts them together the way they do? They should come from factory with either a union or a non working swivel in there somewhere! I have been lucky not having any real issues with mine YET! But my idea when I do have to do something with it was to put a swivel in. I will heed the advice to get out the sawzall and hack away. Thanks.

This repair is not that time consuming.... But you do need to dismantle the parts to remove the valve. I also agree a non working swivel would help.... But it would probably not work in 10+ years when the valve needs to be replaced again? I also did not drain the water and just screwed the new valve on.

An annoying repair would be fixing the city water manifold.

 

[MEP001]

This repair is not that time consuming.... But you do need to dismantle the parts to remove the valve. I also agree a non working swivel would help.... But it would probably not work in 10+ years when the valve needs to be replaced again? I also did not drain the water and just screwed the new valve on.

An annoying repair would be fixing the city water manifold.

You don't need to dismantle the parts to remove the valve if you cut the nipple above the valve. I've done it several times with a cheap plastic hacksaw blade older, it takes a half a minute to get through it. Just cut below the hex above the check valve and you can remove the remainder of the fitting from the ball valve, and the remainder will get thrown out with the bad check valve..

I've never had a brass union like this not want to unscrew 20 or 30 years later.

 

[cwguy.com]

I've never had a brass union like this not want to unscrew 20 or 30 years later.

I agree I have never had a brass union go bad either? (But they are usually expensive.... That is why someone already suggested a non-working swivel. Which will probably not last 10+ years.)

But to be honest.... that brass check valve should probably last the 15-20 maybe 30 years also?

To clarify.... There are only 2 additional fittings to remove to remove the valve. Instead of cutting the nipple.

 

[MEP001]

To clarify.... There are only 2 additional fittings to remove to remove the valve. Instead of cutting the nipple.

The one I've worked on had 7 bays, so the manifolds were so close together there wasn't even enough room to unscrew the cross with the three tubing lines on the bay with a bad check valve, so I would have needed to disassemble and remove four manifolds. It didn't help that it was the middle of summer on a 100+ degree day and they had their 700,000 BTU boiler running with no vent to outside, so I wanted to get it done as fast as I could.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

You can get the non-working swivels in stainless steel. I have one spot on my Mark VII auto where it is worth it's weight in gold. I think I got them from Dultmeier.