Water Wizard 1.0 Clear Coat Protectant Problem

[Buzzie8]

I am having problems with getting enough wax on the car from my clear coat protectant tank. I tried adjusting with the small float valve attached to the side of the pump stand but the ball does not move up or down when I turn the knob either way. It stays at around 20 no matter what. I also noticed that very little of the chemical is used when I toggle it on in the test screen. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance for you help.

 

[Tom Thumb]

In bottom of chemical tank is a filter on the outlet pipe, remove it and clean or better replace with new. If you don't mind putting or hand in the wax tank you can get to this without removing the was solution.
The filter screws off counterclock-wise.
Hope this helps.

 

[Buzzie8]

Went to the wash pulled the filter and cleaned it still can't get much above 20 GPH on the meter. I don't think that it was obstructed or needed a new filter. Any other ideas. Also, how do you decide on the setting. I am assuming you are looking at the sheeting of the wax on the car. Maybe it's time to get a local chemical guy.

 

[Greg Pack]

Slightly close the ball valve on the main water inlet. This will create a little suction and suck more wax through. If it changes the sound of the pump, you have closed it too much.

Another alternative is to strengthen your wax solution so that 20 oz/minute is enough to give the desired effect.

 

[Tom Thumb]

You can adjust the pressure by removing the acorn nut on the procon pump and turning the screw inside.

the installation manual should tell you what the setting should be, keep in mind they are recommending turtle wax products so you might have to adjust for the product you are using.

Good luck

 

[Tom Thumb]

Buzzie8,
Please disregard the previous message, when I was at wash today I relized there is no procon on the HP wax, it uses a slenoid mounted below the tank in rear. You should be able to remove the output side hose and trigger the slenoid on by going to the test cycle on the red lion. If the slenoid is operating then it must be a matter of working with the tips in the hyrominders to get the results you want.
hope this helps.

 

[MEP001]

Slightly close the ball valve on the main water inlet. This will create a little suction and suck more wax through. If it changes the sound of the pump, you have closed it too much.

A Water Wizard is a touchless automatic. Restricting flow to any of the pumps will only shorten the life of the pump.

 

[robtl]

I am with Mep on restricting the flow to a pump of this nature,,,,a cat 3535 should never be starved or suction blocked or reduced in any way,,

one thing to look for on the wax solenoid is the quick push lock fitting on bottom that adapts the 3/8 od poly tube will leak air on the suction of the pump and not let a lot of wax enter the pump,
also some of the solenoids have a needle valve built into them, check and see if there is one and open it up to get more flow to the pump.

 

[Buzzie8]

Thanks for all the input so far. I have already opened up the tips but still think I have a problem because the tank is not emptying (or even moving for that matter) when I toggle the HP Wax on. It seems to be the same on both washes maybe that is a coincidence. I'm assuming that this tank doesn't empty as quickly as the tri foam. I will mess with the solenoid tomorrow.

 

[robtl]

You will not see the tank level drop while running the wax function, it only uses very small amount of mix out of the tank. it is not like the tri foam wax where you can see the liquid level drop while turned on.

 

[pitzerwm]

flow meters are the only true way to know how much is being used, it allows you to set the wax/whatever perfectly.

 

[Greg Pack]

I agree that a free flowing suction is best for the pump, but short of adding a pressurized wax that will be the only way I know of to get a higher volume of wax solution through. The trick is not to over do it. I've had several and never even replaced a seal kit on one. One had 75K cars on it when I sold it. The gantry tends to wear out long before the pump station does.

 

[Buzzie8]

I have flow meter that has a ball that floats that came with the wash. Should I be using a different one and if so, what steps do I follow to get a good "sheeting" effect.

 

[Buzzie8]

I agree that a free flowing suction is best for the pump, but short of adding a pressurized wax that will be the only way I know of to get a higher volume of wax solution through. The trick is not to over do it. I've had several and never even replaced a seal kit on one. One had 75K cars on it when I sold it. The gantry tends to wear out long before the pump station does.

cfcw,
I am revisiting this problem because I am still not getting enough clear coat on the car. In your earlier post are you agreeing that you should starve the CAT pump to get better wax flow? I was told my distributor to starve the pump until you start to hear it cavitating then back it off a bit until it sounds normal. Do you agree with this?
Thanks,
Buzzie

 

[Greg Pack]

Pretty much......

 

[dclark3344]

I also have 2 of the 1.0 and that is the only way to get the wax to flow is adjusting the ball valve. I also have an eight bay Super Saver and that is what you have to do to get the wax, clearcoat, and the soap to flow is adjust the ball valves on the bottom of the water holding tank. I have 40,000 washes on each and never had a problem with the Cat 3535 pump or motor

 

[vinh]

I am having weak high pressure clear coat protection on my 1.0. Very minimum usage of my wax even with blue tip. Saw this thread. So is the consensus for the owners to shut the 1 1/4 inch ball valve under the tank about 1/3 way?

 

[robblackburn]

I agree that a free flowing suction is best for the pump, but short of adding a pressurized wax that will be the only way I know of to get a higher volume of wax solution through. The trick is not to over do it. I've had several and never even replaced a seal kit on one. One had 75K cars on it when I sold it. The gantry tends to wear out long before the pump station does.

Agree ... This has been the only way that I have been able to get sufficient amount of wax to daraw into the system. The pump is still getting plenty of water but with the ball valve open all the way it is very difficult to get sufficient wax to draw.

 

[Buzzie8]

Close ball valve until pump starts to cavitate then move back just enough so pump sounds normal again. Also, I needed to replace the solenoid valves on my two WW 1.0's at about 7 years old. This could definitely be the problem.

 

[vinh]

has anyone tried using a larger solenoid with larger diameter tubing hose that feed to Cat pump?