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Where to put regulators on low pressure with flojets without High pressure blow back?

C

cityview

Member
There's been issues with the low pressure at our car wash since I bought it.

I finally decided to upgrade the pumps to flojets.

On the original system, the pressure gauges were AFTER the pump. However, when I see new systems for sale, they have the pressure gauge on the air inlet to the pump instead of on the product outflow. It seems to be suggested that way here when I searched about this: http://www.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?16108-Do-I-need-check-valve&p=123963#post123963

Here's how our system looks:

Air Line Splits > FloJet Air Intake
> Air Line Regulator (set to 30 PSI) > Solenoids > Individual Line Outs

Product > FloJet In > FloJet Out > Non-Relieving Pressure Regulator (set to 40 PSI) > Solenoids > Individual Line Outs

(One bay is disconnected because it was replaced by another Auto system)

View attachment 1223

It seems to be working OK, but I am getting blowback out the air pressure relief valve, which burned out a compressor. (If I cover up the relief valves, pressure shoots up to about 45 PSI). Wondering if the issue is pressure gauge on the flojets. I've never been able to really understand how the low pressure systems work, but I was told the product should be at 40 PSI and the air should be at 30 PSI.

When I see new systems online, they all seem to have ONE regulator instead of two, or have a regulator attached to the flojet airline in.

Secondly- if I do switch to regulating the air line to the flojet- should I use relieving or non-relieving?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Last edited:
I doubt it matters whether you use relieving or non-relieving to supply the Flojet. I use the 1/4" Norgren relieving for everything air because they're cheap and last a good while.

I prefer the pressure gauge after the pump. I don't need to know the pressure to the pump, I need to know what it's producing.

I would always regulate the air pressure to each FloJet. Some systems have one air regulator for all and then regulate the liquid pressure with another regulator. More to go wrong that way, and all the pumps but one have to run at higher pressure than needed. The variation of the FloJet running normally doesn't in my experience affect the flow or pressure at the bay.

I've set up systems with one regulator for both the FloJet and the air to the bay, and it works if there are individual adjustments for each bay but without that you'll need to regulate pressure to both solenoid blocks.

The regulator that's blowing out the bypass all the time is either bad or it's installed backwards.
 
You don’t want to use a regulator on the discharge side of the pump. The pressure you put into a Flo-jet pump will be the pressure that you get out of it. We use this regulator https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1684-parker-brass-mini-regulator-for-air-or-liquid-14.aspx Remove the regulator from the discharge side of the pump and put it on the air inlet to the pump, after you flush it out with water, the harsh car wash chemicals will ruin a regulator in no time. If you’re getting liquid spurting from the regulator on the air side you’ve got a problem with a check valve out in the bay. What system is this on? You'll be happy that you got rid of the ARO pump, those things are nothing but a problem, we got rid of them 20+ years ago. Now toss it into the dumpster and have a drink to celebrate.
 
MEP001 said:
The regulator that's blowing out the bypass all the time is either bad or it's installed backwards.
Click to expand...

First off, thanks a lot for your help.

Whats the odds of it being bad if its new? It seemed like it worked until I replaced the second gauge....

I guess it is possible. I'll probably go ahead and just replace it.
 
Randy said:
You don’t want to use a regulator on the discharge side of the pump. The pressure you put into a Flo-jet pump will be the pressure that you get out of it. We use this regulator https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1684-parker-brass-mini-regulator-for-air-or-liquid-14.aspx Remove the regulator from the discharge side of the pump and put it on the air inlet to the pump, after you flush it out with water, the harsh car wash chemicals will ruin a regulator in no time. If you’re getting liquid spurting from the regulator on the air side you’ve got a problem with a check valve out in the bay. What system is this on? You'll be happy that you got rid of the ARO pump, those things are nothing but a problem, we got rid of them 20+ years ago. Now toss it into the dumpster and have a drink to celebrate.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your advice Randy!

Check valve out in the bay? I don't have a check valve on any of my foam brush bays, never have. I do have check valves on my guns. I didn't think you were supposed to use check valves on foam brush... but then again it all starts adding up (Why I'd be getting blowback pressure with no check valves). I guess I answered my own question about using relieving regulator with no check valve... My system is a Jim coleman.

Do you have check valves on your foam brush? I guess I really should probably put one on all the air lines.
 
Yes we have a check valve on the foam brush system, one where the air and the liquid meet and one of the air side of the foam brush manifold, between and the regulator. This prevents any liquid from going back into the regulator. It's also not a bad idea to install a MX-8 or a series of relays and a solenoid valve on the Flo-Jet pump discharge to shut off the air when the system isn't being used. Should the hose break between the pump and the manifold the pump will run until someone discovers it, this could be days in some cases. I've seen it happen many times and it can be very costly.
On our Presoak systems we no longer use the Flo-jet pump but use a Procon pump controlled by a MX-8 to start and stop the pump, we can get a lot more pressure from a Procon pump.
 
Randy said:
Yes we have a check valve on the foam brush system, one where the air and the liquid meet and one of the air side of the foam brush manifold, between and the regulator. This prevents any liquid from going back into the regulator. It's also not a bad idea to install a MX-8 or a series of relays and a solenoid valve on the Flo-Jet pump discharge to shut off the air when the system isn't being used. Should the hose break between the pump and the manifold the pump will run until someone discovers it, this could be days in some cases. I've seen it happen many times and it can be very costly.
On our Presoak systems we no longer use the Flo-jet pump but use a Procon pump controlled by a MX-8 to start and stop the pump, we can get a lot more pressure from a Procon pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help.

I ordered a check valve, and I'm doing more research on the MX8 relays. I'm going to plan on doing something like that!
 
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