Which 1" float?

[MEP001]

But the diaphragm type are susceptible to holding debris and malfunctioning. This is why I'm not crazy about this solution.

IMO the diaphragm-types are less susceptible to that because the orifice is as large or larger than the inlet plumbing. Really, any solenoid can get trash under the seat.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

IB, what solenoid did you use for the water? I like and dislike your solution. The like is obvious, but I dislike it also because it complicates a simple setup. I would also be concerned if the solenoid failed or got plugged and shut down all the pump (via the low water switch).

It may complicate a simple set-up, but the fact is, the simple set-up doesn't work! Believe me, I've tried virtually every new, latest, greatest valve that has come out in my 43 years associated with this business. The fact is, the float valve was ALWAYS the most problematic part of the wash. With the exception of the 571 Hydrominder, they start leaking in a short amount of time. The 571 would eventually fail to open, which was worse.

Regarding the solenoid failing to open, which I haven't experienced yet. I plumbed in a bypass that would get me up and running with the turn of a ball valve if needed. At most of my washes, my Mark VII pump stands have both a hot and cold tank. I hooked them together at the bottom and left the float valve (without solenoid) in the cold tank, but set the level fairly low, compared to the hot tank. This way, the cold valve is shut off tightly unless the hot tank gets very low. If the solenoid valve fails to open or the hot tank gets low for whatever reason the cold valve will open and function as a lifeboat.

I used the piston type Dema, 418P I think. My experience with diaphragm valves has not been good (leaked or failed "full open" when new) and I took them off and sent them back.

 

[Bud]

I have used the Walters for years and have always had to replace them a couple times a year on the hot tank but I would rebuild them but the last couple years I have bought new ones and they seem useless. Maybe a new manufacturerer? I have started using the Topaz and have had only one problem. The knobs on one loosened up and the tank overflowed rapidly. I don't know for how long. I believe the knobs were tight when I installed them so I checked the others. I did find one other one a bit loose. I guess they need checked every now and then but other than that they have been falwless. I will continue to use them. I also use 3/4 ". I did away with the 1". Atleast on my LW 4000s it was way over kill. I still only have the ball valve half open.

 

[MEP001]

I have used the Walters for years and have always had to replace them a couple times a year on the hot tank but I would rebuild them but the last couple years I have bought new ones and they seem useless. Maybe a new manufacturerer?

Could be. The last new one I put into service leaked from one side - I had to go around and tighten all the screws. The last time I replaced the pilot valve on one, the new pilot valve was bad.

 

[Flash]

best buy on Topaz float valves

Just wanted to let you know I read your post about the Topaz float valves. I found them at kencove for 65.00 free shiping. I bought 3 of them. Kleen Rite wanted 154.00. I was always fixing on those water master floats so thanks guys.

 

[Waxman]

The regular Topaz is $52 + shipping. Hi temp valve is $150+.

I just installed the cheaper version for my IBA.

Seems like a decent unit and I like how it actuates.

I like the plastic construction and how easily adjustable it is.

Needed 1 large crescent wrenh to install; took about 10 minutes.