Rotary pump vs. Flojet

[cantbreak80]

Following “best practices” for compressed air plumbing will significantly reduce moisture at the point of use. There are many piping examples available on the www, but, multiple drip legs are commonly recommended...especially in the humid environment of a car wash engine room.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

I've had a few procons fail on me & require replacement. IMO when I add in the cost of the motor & eletricity, procons end up being more expensive even factoring in flojet replacement. Especially for lower pressure applications. Flojets last me 5 to 10 years each.

Following “best practices” for compressed air plumbing will significantly reduce moisture at the point of use. There are many piping examples available on the www, but, multiple drip legs are commonly recommended...especially in the humid environment of a car wash engine room.

I've always known that my compressor was originally piped "on the cheap." Since I use a lot more air than I used to, and since I seem to be getting more moisture in the lines, I've been thinking about re-plumbing it... your post reminded me I need to do it, & do it right.
So thanks for that.

 

[copperglobe]

Procon by far. Used both in our washes and I wouldn't go back to Flojet.

 

[Greg Pack]

If you remove the air from the pump between usage with the proper equipment, the air pumps will last much longer. It will require a IDX controller, a solenoid, and a 3 way valve of some sort to bleed off the air. Pitzer used to use a pink hydrominder teed into the air supply line downstream of the solenoid instead of a valve to bleed off air.

I put in a flojet in a very humid equipment room and the air supply is wet. I have a solenoid on the air supply. This flojet is probably five years old and still working. I know on one pump stand I have a ARO pump that is configured the same, and it is at least ten years old.

I like rotary pumps for LP presoak because of the higher pressures, but I am fine with air pumps on everything else.

 

[MDrost1]

Like CFCW said, I have a Norgren(PN 353162-0151-E) solenoid with a let off built in. Takes the pressure off the Flojets. Works pretty well. Aside from the valve being $90, works fine. Though I have to be very mindful of draining the tank to keep moisture out. If I don't stay on top of it, the valve gets messed up.

Anyone know of another potential replacement valve for this application? I'd be curious if there are any other options.

 

[Kevin James]

I previously was having serious aggravation with the flo-jets. I was sending multiple units back under KR 16 month warranty. They were being covered, but they always failed when busy. As a last straw before changing to procons, I added a point of use provider filter (PUP) at one location. (KR part # REA425- $159.50) This has made all the difference in the world. I have not had to change a flo-jet since adding it. So I put them at all locations. It requires a $66 yearly element change, but is well worth it.

So, I would recommend the flo-jets as long as you get the filter; mostly for the reason MEP said: Easy, quick change out. And all my attendants can do it.

As a side note to flo-jets-- I have an A-OK pump stand from 1997 that has 2 of the original 4 flo-jets on it--when they were made in the U.S.A. They are now made in China.

I think you guy’s need to go back to 3rd grade and get some math lessons, a 5th grade could figure this out. If you’re paying $239.99 for a Pup air filter that requires a yearly filter change that costs $104.27, after 10 years your going have spent $1282.69 and you’re probably going to have to replace 3 Flojet pumps in that time period at $233.25 if you buy the cheapest one there is. For a total of $1755.93. Or you could buy 1 Procon 102A100F11XXpump for $77.57 and a buy 1/3 hp motor for $188.07 for a total of $265.64 and be money ahead over the 10 year life of the Procon pump, or longer and not have a the aggravation of dealing with the Flojet pumps.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

I think you guy’s need to go back to 3rd grade and get some math lessons, a 5th grade could figure this out.

OK now thats funny, 3rd grade math requiring a 5th grader... LOL

 

[MEP001]

Anyone know of another potential replacement valve for this application? I'd be curious if there are any other options.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-36151-kip-3-way-solenoid-valve-24v.aspx

I couldn't find a 120V one on their site, but I got some from somewhere for only about $50. I put them on the frag/vac because they were trapping pressure in the line and the compressor would always start under load.

 

[washnvac]

OK now thats funny, 3rd grade math requiring a 5th grader... LOL

Ok---well that fuzzy math neglects the electric costs of running the pump, a $95 multiplexer, and a $?$ motor starter. Plus a 100 gph pump would not do my locations. One is a 9 bay which a flo-jet at 7 gpm does just fine. I would need 2 procons for that location, and I would need the 240 gph or 330 gph with a 1/2 hp motor for the others. And, a procon would not last 10 years on tire cleaner and presoak. I have them at one location-- 3 years tops.

We will just have to agree to disagree. From the posts, there are pros and cons of each set up.

 

[MEP001]

We will just have to agree to disagree. From the posts, there are pros and cons of each set up.

But are there flos and jets?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Anyone know of another potential replacement valve for this application? I'd be curious if there are any other options.

I just use a check valve open to atmosphere to bleed the pressure off. I just screw it in by hand, without tape or sealer, so it will leak a little. When enough air leaks off, the CV unchecks and dumps what's left, along with any moisture. Pretty crude, but very simple and cheap.