Kr vanilla cream

[Ontario Car Wash]

Hello,
mixed up a 5 gallon with 10 gallons of water
been using on a orange hydrominder tip 505
clean was good and foam was really good
today no foam hmmmmmmmmmmm
tip was clear
changed to blue tip back to good
what happened water is not hard and still heated but not much soap hyrdo tub
almost like the mix fell apart or hydro not pulling enough soap
or does this stuff need mixed up every no and then looked like it was good not suspened?
Thanks

 

[2Biz]

Do you have the pail sitting on the floor? If you are having the same frigid temps we're having (Southern Ohio) could the bottom of the pail possibly be freezing? I put all my pails on top of empty pail containers to get them off the floor. It serves two fold, it gets the pail off the cold floor and its a shorter distance and less head pressure for the hydrominder to overcome. FYI...For every foot of tubing height, there is about .5 psi of head pressure when calculating using water....I would assume thick soap would be much higher. So the shorter you make the pickup tube, the better off you are...

 

[Randy]

Years ago we used the KR Vanilla Crème and we liked the smell and the foam. It worked great in the summer but in the winter it would drop out of solution, even in a heated equipment room. Do you have a white powder looking stuff at the bottom of your 15 gallon container? If you do the surfactant has dropped out of solution, there’s nothing you can do to get it mixed back up. The KR hyper concentrates used to be made by Simoniz, all the KR hyper concentrates and the Simoniz Tropical Bay soaps use the same base, just different color and scents, but the base was the same. Call KR and pitch a bitch to the soap guy. We had so many problems with the KR brand and the Simoniz Tropical Bay that we switched over to JBS Fonic, now we never have any problems.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

there’s nothing you can do to get it mixed back up.

Well, perhaps the first time I disagree with Randy... its a historic day!
I think that no matter whose ultra-concentrated soap you use it's going to precipitate out of solution at low temps. If you warm the soap back up & stir, it should re-dissolve.

---> I use this bucket heater on my high pressure soap when temps really cold: northern tool bucket heater
A little high priced IMO, but it works and barely uses any electricity, zero problems with the soap thickening or precipitating anymore. Which also means I dont have to dork around with changing the metering between summer/winter.

As an aside, I also used the KR soaps for a long time. 2-3 years ago they didnt seem to be cleaning as well for me, I'm pretty sure it wasnt my imagination and I hadnt changed anything. I switched back to Stoner soaps, cleaning is better again.

Edit: There are multiple styles/brands of bucket heater, shop around.

 

[Randy]

Paul, it is a historic day! I keep my equipment room at around 60 - 65 deg. year around. I'd buy the KR ultra-concentrated soap by the pallet and store of it in the basement, it's heated also. Sometimes it would separate in the 5 gallon pail before it was mixed up. We've never had a problem with the JBS Fonic separating. We used the JBS Fonic for both the HP Soap and Foam brush Soap. We also had problems with bacterial "slime" growing in the soap tanks with the KR ultra concentrated soaps, it looked like snot.

 

[2Biz]

I keep my ER @ 60° too. Well 60° about 6' off the floor where the thermometer is. I bet its about 45° on the floor! That's why I put empty buckets under the full pails. Gets them up in a warmer climate! No pail heater needed!

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

Yikes, doesnt it cost a lot to keep the ER heated? My ER cinder block walls are often below 30, thats a massive heat sink.
My ER generally doesnt go below 45 or so, unless outside temps are single digits or below 0 at which point I do generally run a small heater to keep things from freezing up.
I find that the soaps thicken around 60 degrees, and begin to precipitate around 50-55. So I keep the thermostat controlled bucket heater around 60-65. (Yep, all chems are on dollys - off the floor.)

 

[MEP001]

Some people here stud out and insulate the ER room walls and air-condition them to control the heat and humidity.

 

[soapy]

I accidentally ordered some kleenrite vanilla shake concentrate last year. I have been using it for my foam brush soap and have had no problems with it at all.

 

[copperglobe]

I accidentally ordered some kleenrite vanilla shake concentrate last year. I have been using it for my foam brush soap and have had no problems with it at all.

Soapy: how do you mix it for foam brush, tip color. That's an interesting option....

 

[soapy]

What might work in my system may be different for yours. I dilute it 15 to 1 with water then go through a hydro around 70 to one for final product.

 

[mac]

I am probably just old fashioned on this idea of having to mix a product with water first. When you add the human element into this there is always room or mistakes. There are some pretty darn good mixing systems out there now. This is like going backwards in time. I remember many years ago it was the fashion to buy some powder, mix it in a drum, and use it for most all functions. Reportedly Blendco now has some of their distributors mixing at their site and then selling it. I know this happens here in FL because I get customers that were using the Blendco home brew, but couldn't get consistent results. I mean there's enough other stuff to do at a wash anyway. There. Now I feel better.

 

[soapy]

Mac, you right for the most part. I just do what works for me. Ultraconcentrates require everything to be perfect for the hydro to work right. No leaks in hoses or plugged small tips etc. I myself would rather use larger tips drawing more product. Less likely to get a plugged tip and a small air leak will still allow chemical draw. I only do this with a few of my chemicals, mostly the ones that provide "show" to the costomers.

 

[slash007]

My ER stays around 50, just warms up from the floor heat boiler running. I do have a backup heater just in case. Is there really a point to having it at 60 degrees? I always thought just to keep it a decent amount above freezing.

 

[WikiWash]

I switched back to Stoner soaps, cleaning is better again.

Hey Paul!

Do you have IBAs and do you use Stoner soap products on them?

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

Hey Paul!

Do you have IBAs and do you use Stoner soap products on them?

No, unfortunately I dont have an IBA - my market is just a little bit too small, I can never get the numbers to pencil out.

 

[bighead]

FWIW i've been using this and I love it.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-30430-shore-901-clearcoat-drying-agent-5-gallon.aspx

I've even been using it as a TCP when i'm in a bind and almost like it more than Rainx/durashield.

It claims the same stuff as this thread: (needs to stay warm/falls out of solution) but haven't had that problem yet.

 

[soonermajic]

Bighead, that is interesting.I have never heard of those. How does it compare to rainX & others?

 

[bighead]

I think it "flashes" faster than most of the TCP's out there and have tried to use it in washes where i have drying problems. Back in the day I was buying it straight from shore corp. After a while it just wasn't worth ordering one chemical from them for me, so I stuck with Rainx and Durasheild.

But now that they are with kleen rite, I've been using it and its been doing pretty well. I use the same dilution tips as the TCP's and have been happy with the results, and for $65 a pail its significantly cheaper.

TCP's= Total Car Protectants

 

[soonermajic]

this sounds very intriguing...

any more info...?