PVC Walls on self serve worth it?

[wash12]

Are PVC walls on a self serve wash worth it? I love how they look just worried about the longevity of them.

Who is using them and do they hold up, also what brand do you guys recommend?

I have them on our Auto and its the tongue and grove style so if one did get damaged you almost have to take the entire wall down depending on where the damage piece is, maybe there is a brand out there that doesn't require this?

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

My wash came with Extrutech. Ceilings, walls, everything. I couldn’t imagine anything else especially dealing with painting and maintaining block. I use a custom made wide brush, and some Kleen-Wall every 6 months and they’re like new....even 12 years after my wash was built.

 

[Earl Weiss]

I use pebble finish FRP. Pebble finish is not amenable to the Graffiti scratches. Haven't seen anything better. Won't get dinged like hollow core PVC.

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

I should add that my Extrutech walls are the concrete form/walls. Hollow core would be more susceptible to damage I’d assume

 

[wash12]

I should add that my Extrutech walls are the concrete form/walls. Hollow core would be more susceptible to damage I’d assume

Where would I buy or get a quote on these type of walls, I am guessing this form of extrutech is much more expensive then the hollow core ones?

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

Where would I buy or get a quote on these type of walls, I am guessing this form of extrutech is much more expensive then the hollow core ones?

Get a price on material from Extrutech. Either from them or a distributor. Then get a quote from a concrete contractor. That’s what I’d do

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

I absolutely hate my pebble finish FRP panels on my 10 bay but it’s 12+ years old and very brittle especially when cold weather comes. I pressure wash with acid all the time. I can’t wait to tear it off and just have nice clean brick sometime.

 

[DiamondWash]

I just installed Extrutech paneling in my self serves and yes they look nice but I already had some a$$hole dent some panels on both sides of a bay. I was told to make it look seamless again yes I would have to take down part of the wall to repair or I could just put in a H panel which would look like crap.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

It's not a big deal to replace a single panel, regardless of where it is on the wall. I've done it several times.

 

[wash12]

It's not a big deal to replace a single panel, regardless of where it is on the wall. I've done it several times.

Can you explain how? If its a tongue and grove style how would you get one in the middle out I am trying to visualize how that is possible.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I got this straight from Extrutech, it's not some cokkamamy idea I came up with, it's Extrutech's cokkamamy idea.

Destroy the damaged panel to remove it, doing whatever it takes to get it out, without damaging the adjacent panels. Cut the attaching fin off the new panel. Cut vertically through the back side of the replacement panel, so that it can be bowed. I cut in the middle, but it would probably be easier if it was cut in more than one place. Use wide putty knives (like used for drywall mud) to work the edges of the panel in place and to pry the J-channels back as well. Since the panel won't have the attaching fin, I was instructed to smear adhesive (liquid nails was recommended) on the wall before installing the panel. Squirting some behind the adjacent panel is not a bad idea as well. This is a bit of a cumbersome job, so an extra set of hands is recommended. It works, not a big deal at all.

 

[MEP001]

I got this straight from Extrutech, it's not some cokkamamy idea I came up with, it's Extrutech's cokkamamy idea.

Destroy the damaged panel to remove it, doing whatever it takes to get it out, without damaging the adjacent panels. Cut the attaching fin off the new panel. Cut vertically through the back side of the replacement panel, so that it can be bowed. I cut in the middle, but it would probably be easier if it was cut in more than one place. Use wide putty knives (like used for drywall mud) to work the edges of the panel in place and to pry the J-channels back as well. Since the panel won't have the attaching fin, I was instructed to smear adhesive (liquid nails was recommended) on the wall before installing the panel. Squirting some behind the adjacent panel is not a bad idea as well. This is a bit of a cumbersome job, so an extra set of hands is recommended. It works, not a big deal at all.

That's the same way you remove/replace a damaged piece of tongue and groove engineered flooring.

 

[DiamondWash]

Extrutech needs to make a video showing this procedure, it sounds simply enough but an instructional video would ultimately help.