Airlift Door doesn't open trapping people inside?

[JGinther]

That button is a good idea as its easy to see, but the sign should do the same thing with your manual buttons you already have... They are in the bay by the exit door right? It doesn't matter how many open buttons you wire in - if the stop circuit is open, nothing will work. And if a down button is latched on by either the button or the car wash, then it depends on the logic of the "brain" (if there is one) as to whether it will process the 'up' request. But it most likely will ignore the 'up' request if its the controller I think it is.

 

[cityview]

That button is a good idea as its easy to see, but the sign should do the same thing with your manual buttons you already have... They are in the bay by the exit door right? It doesn't matter how many open buttons you wire in - if the stop circuit is open, nothing will work. And if a down button is latched on by either the button or the car wash, then it depends on the logic of the "brain" (if there is one) as to whether it will process the 'up' request. But it most likely will ignore the 'up' request if its the controller I think it is.

But the other door would open... I thought I could have one emergency button open both using relays.

In that case, both would have to fail for it to be an issue.

Most people would have to stand on a ladder to access the controls that are there unfortunately.

 

[JGinther]

Just get a button with DPST or DPDT contacts. Then you won't need a relay - if that's what you want to do.

 

[cityview]

Just get a button with DPST or DPDT contacts. Then you won't need a relay - if that's what you want to do.

Wow...

Just discovered the buttons ARE disabled in auto mode, so I don't think that will work.

The wiring for the stop button goes into what looks like a relay of some sort.

 

[mjwalsh]

Cityview,

Hopefully, the system has not just a hook up wiring diagram but also a ladder wiring diagram ... that would help possibly rewiring it in an improved way along with possibly a relocation of the stop button etc.

 

[JGinther]

We are talking about a garage door stop button, right? Not a Emergency stop for the car wash? Maybe that is your whole problem anyway - its wired wrong or somebody thought they should over-engineer something. Is there some sort of door control switch for auto/manual?

 

[BBE]

I would chdck a few things. First would be the limit switches. If one of them is bad and possibly sticking on it can make the door do funny things because both relays will be on at the same time. It will give you an error that goes away by hitting the stop button to clear it and then being able to open or close it with the button. I can't recall the error code. Fof or fuf, something along those lines. Also if it's wired to an Iba, and the Iba is holding a signal to either open or close it, you won't be able to manually raise it up or down with the buttons on the panel. This is because the Iba is holding a signal to it to keep it up or down. Sounds like this might be part of what's going on as well. These are all things I've experienced with an airlift door on a washworld high velocity. Good luck.

 

[GoBuckeyes]

If your automatic is holding a signal to either open or close rather than just sending a momentary signal you can fix that by using a timing relay. For example, a Laserwash 4000 sends open and close door signals in 1 minute durations and will sometimes hold the open signal constantly depending on the circumstance. With my door controller, holding a signal rather than using a momentary overrides the door controller's safety features and also renders the manual buttons useless until the signal is removed. With this timer you can use the single shot function to send a .5 second signal or use the interval timer to send a signal length of your choosing. I'm not sure this is the cause of your intermittent problem but it may help once you figure that out.

Good luck!

https://www.galco.com/buy/Macromatic/TE-8812U

 

[cityview]

I think I may have fixed it.

My problem is I'm not sure how.

Fingers crossed.

I went the old fashioned- "Clean the contacts, replace the switches, check the wiring".

I'm on a week with not getting stuck... Knock on wood?


https://www.airliftdoors.com/_pdf/EMAIL - XRS MANUAL.pdf

 

[JGinther]

Good news! Curious which switches you replaced?

 

[cityview]

Low Voltage?

Good news! Curious which switches you replaced?

Bad News!

I thought I fixed it but I didn't... however, I now know what is going on.

I get a LOW VOLTAGE error at both doors. The guy said I had a low voltage issue on door 1 because the motor was bad, so he was replacing that (evidently that takes 2 months), but I just discovered the other door has a low voltage issue too and does NOT have a bad motor (already confirmed that.

So now my question is... WHY would i be getting low voltage at both garage doors? It sounds silly, but I have no idea what could be causing low voltage....

the guy that came out to fix it said the voltage looked OK coming into the boxes, so why would both of them be having low voltage errors?

When it detects low voltage, it then locks. To unlock it you have to hit the "Stop" button. Besides that being the worlds dumbest engineering design, what could be causing it?

The fact that the only airlift servicing company in the area can't figure it out is not helping me any...

 

[JGinther]

How sure are you that the other motor is bad? Low voltage should have nothing to do with the motor. You have VFD drives (maybe thats the 'relay' thing you mentioned in another post that the stop button is wired to?) Those drives need enough voltage and current to prevent the DC bus from going too low and causing output problems. So if that is for sure the problem that is causing the error, you need to look at the supply side to the control box, not anything on the doors. If the motor was bad, you would have an overload or over-current problem on the drive, not a low voltage problem. So now you need to look at the supply wire size and contacts through switches or whatever is between your breaker and the door control box. Also make sure the wire size is as specified for the installation. For example, using a 18 gauge wire when it calls for a 20 amp supply at 120V would cause the voltage to drop when the motor was running and the drive to fault out.

 

[cityview]

I appreciate your thoughts... Now that I've identified the issue, im going to start a new thread.

Had a guy out. Voltage is 119 at both doors.

Could something be causing intermittent drops of voltage? IE... When the compressor goes on AND when the drying fans are on or something?

I don't even know where to look and neither did the garage door repair person.

 

[mjwalsh]

Cityview,

If it was mine, based on intermittent voltage drop situation I had on some rental property ... the local power company at no charge will put a monitoring device on your meter to make sure the problem is not on their end.

 

[cityview]

Cityview,

If it was mine, based on intermittent voltage drop situation I had on some rental property ... the local power company at no charge will put a monitoring device on your meter to make sure the problem is not on their end.

Thanks for that tip. Im Going to call them tomorrow!