Hydrominder Routine Maintenance

[2Biz]

Since there isn't a dedicated Hydrominder Routine Maintenance Thread on here, I thought I would start one. I have a few questions of my own that come to mind for discussion. Anything else that comes to mind, please add.

1. 
   I think this is the biggest. Do you remove the small washer strainer and use a standard garden hose washer? Then put in a larger SMC (Or similar) style strainer inline for your hydrominder supply water? If so, what mesh and why? Clogged washer screens have bitten me several times...And at the most busiest time!
   
   
2. Plastic or Copper Stems, which do you prefer and why?
   
   
3. How often do you replace the diaphragm or do you wait for failure then replace? Does the diaphragm harden over time changing the amount of water it lets through, also changing chemical draw?
   
   
4. How often do you replace the discharge tube in the tank?
   
   
5. Do you drill an Anti syphon hole in the discharge tube, if not why?
   
   
6. How often do you replace the pick-up hose and foot valve?
   
   
7. Do you routinely clean hydrominder metering tips?

The list is just a few of the items that come to mind....I think having a thread dedicated to just Hydrominders is a good idea...

 

[OurTown]

This is a great idea. Here is what we do but we are only into this business less than two years.

1. We use the factory screen washers but putting in a mesh strainer sounds like a good idea. With our current setup all the hydrominders have to be shut down to clean any of the mesh washers.
2. We end up buying the copper ones because that is what was in most of ours.
3. We do not change those very often but I'm also curious if there is a change of draw.
4. When it turns white or opaque. Although I have not done it does anyone reuse the yellow restrictor and use bulk hose?
5. Yes.
6. When the hose gets hard or opaque. When the valve fails.
7. I clean them only when I need to change the size. Do you guys use the screw in tips with 1/2" ID hose or push in tips with 1/4" ID hose? I have thought about keeping the screw in tips, attaching a short piece of 1/2" hose, then a reducer to 1/4" hose to the bucket. 1/4" hose costs less, quicker hose fill after maintenance, easier tip changes.

 

[MEP001]

1. I had issues with the screen clogging on just one Hydrominder, which was the only one on hot water. I got desperate one day and cut the screen out. I've never had a problem with the valve with no screen.

2. I prefer the brass stem. I always see issues with the plastic ones, when they get old the valve doesn't open fully and the chemical is weak. The brass ones have fewer problems and last much longer.

3. I haven't really had issue with the diaphragms since going to the brass stems. They will still sometimes flow too slow but it's maybe once every couple of years that one of the eight has a problem. Sometimes they chatter when they close so I put in a whole kit. I never change just the diaphragm, but once a year might be a good, cheap preventive maintenance.

4. When I have to take it off for some reason and it's too hard to get it back on.

5. I always do. The only reason I can see that you wouldn't is if the unit has a siphon breaker.

6. Same as 4, I shouldn't have to replace the entire hose for a while since I did this: https://www.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?10214-Quick-and-easy-quot-bug-fix-quot Part of this is so I don't have to replace the entire pickup hose if I only need to replace the foot valve but the hose is too hardened, I can replace just the section in the pail.

7. No, the chemicals I use never clog or foul the tips.

I also replace the screws with stainless steel ones - #8 x 5/8" Phillips pan head sheet metal screws work as well as the coated steel ones. I tested on a bad plastic body by tightening one of each until they stripped, and they took about the same force before they went.

 

[Earl Weiss]

PM for Hydrominders same as for Vacuum Motors and Bay Cat Pumps - None.
Problems addressed as they occur.
Once did away with factory washer / strainers. Crud got in Diaphragms and they kept running. Now use a Strainer on line feeding units and Factory strainer.
Took me too many years to learn I should stop trying to dig washer strainer out to clean and replace. Always damaged it. Now, disconnect hose fitting and unscrew wherever it comes off easiest, where 3/8" pipe enters valve or where valve enters unit. To clean apply compressed air to exit end, then enter side and replace. All else addressed a needed. Clogged metering tips, foot valves, educators with accumulated debris, and rebuild kit for diaphragm.
Most of my attention to Hydrominders is in the Tunnels. Can hardly recall issues in the SS.

 

[Greg Pack]

Side question: A friend of mine just bought a SS pump unit from Etowah Valley Equipment( Jim Gosnell's company) and he is using DEMA 440s on his pump unit. Does anyone else use the DEMA? Is there any advantage to them?

 

[OurTown]

Side question: A friend of mine just bought a SS pump unit from Etowah Valley Equipment( Jim Gosnell's company) and he is using DEMA 440s on his pump unit. Does anyone else use the DEMA? Is there any advantage to them?

I have no experience with them but noticed that the tip colors are not the same as Hydro's colors. You have to use Dema's chart to cross reference them. I'm sure Dema knew that most operators were familiar with Hydro's tip colors so why change that?

 

[MEP001]

I have no experience with them but noticed that the tip colors are not the same as Hydro's colors. You have to use Dema's chart to cross reference them. I'm sure Dema knew that most operators were familiar with Hydro's tip colors so why change that?

But whose came first? As far as we know, Hydro made theirs after DEMA and they used their own color code. In any case, Hydrominders are in 99.9% of washes I've been in, which is probably 500.

The older DEMA version seem to be bullet-proof. The few times I've seen them they've never been touched. Some of their solenoids are terrible now so I wouldn't consider a DEMA float valve unit.

 

[2Biz]

Last weekend it warmed up and was the busiest weekend we've had in the last 2 years. I had a TF hydrominder fail causing me to scramble to get it fixed while cars were 3-4 deep waiting on the bays...Definitely raises the BP! Today we've had snow, rain, and now freezing rain! So a good day to go through all the hydrominders in an effort to do this on a schedule than waiting for one to fail!

I already had brass stems installed, so I just put in new diagrams. Also took out the pesky washer strainers and replaced with standard garden hose washers and installed 50 mesh SMC clear bowl strainers. I only used one on the inlet to the TF tanks since I only have one supply...

It never hurts to have enough shutoff valves!

 

[Roz]

If chemicals look weak in one bay we check the solenoid (HP Soap & Wax). If LP chemicals look weak in more than one bay we change the screw in tip and soak the tip removed in boiling water, then use an air can to blow dry clean. Probably better to just purchase a new one for the $1 cost than to take a future risk so that is the way we are probably heading.

We had an issue with our Hydominder 572 where the actuator spring was pancaking in the open position and briefly allowing water to overflow the tank. Cleaned the shaft with a windex wipe as a temporary solution. Spoke with Hydro Systems who was very helpful (as our equipment is new). According to tech support they had a manufacturing issue at some point last year (2018) with the actuators pancaking and sticking open so they are spending me a replacement actuator - impressed with their customer service and quick response!

We added Anti-siphoning holes to all our new units.

The questions below are all good. You might consider calling Hydro Systems tech support and see what they recommend. They are not operators of car washes but they may have info gained from speaking with operators who call in. Thomas in tech support was most helpful and tracked down the answer to the spring issue for me.

 

[OurTown]

But whose came first? As far as we know, Hydro made theirs after DEMA and they used their own color code. In any case, Hydrominders are in 99.9% of washes I've been in, which is probably 500.

The older DEMA version seem to be bullet-proof. The few times I've seen them they've never been touched. Some of their solenoids are terrible now so I wouldn't consider a DEMA float valve unit.

Why do you think that the Dema units never caught on?

 

[MEP001]

Why do you think that the Dema units never caught on?

Good question, maybe they were late in the game.

 

[MEP001]

If LP chemicals look weak in more than one bay we change the screw in tip and soak the tip removed in boiling water.

I wouldn't use boiling water. It might distort the tip and its orifice.

 

[Earl Weiss]

installed 50 mesh SMC clear bowl strainers. I only used one on the inlet to the TF tanks since I only have one supply...

I would order bunch of Clear Bowl spares. Have had plenty fail over the years, but they were in Combo Vacs r the tunnel and subject to wide temp swings. I now use a black think it's called "Banjo" type strainer. Never had one fail.

 

[Roz]

I wouldn't use boiling water. It might distort the tip and its orifice.

Someone recently mentioned that too. We probably will just discard and order new as the part is inexpensive relative to a tip that does not function as expected. Still learning and refining our processes.