Ryko OHD Problem

[Washeduptoo]

I'm lost. My go to tech says he's never heard of such. So show me your skills ryko pros, please.

The trolley and the gantry move at the same time. If I manually drive the trolley to the left the gantry moves in reverse. If I manually move the trolley to the right the gantry moves forward. I though it may be a crossed wire in the box, so I tried to run a wash. As soon as the trolley starts moving to the left the gantry drives in reverse and right into the bumper of the car. It drags across the car, makes it to the diver side door, stops wash, and rinses down the car.

X5 is blinking funny.
Get 74 code intermittently.
Could ultrasonic cause this?
Is gantry contactor in when wash is idle?

Thanks. God I need new equipment.

 

[soapy]

Have you done a complete shut down and let the computer reboot? leave it off for a minute or more. Have someone watch the PLC lights while you manually move the machine with the control buttons. See if you get multiple lights coming on the PLC while you are doing this. If multiple lights come on when only lights for the functions you are activating then you have a problem in the PLC. If all the lights come on correct you have some wires or relays crossing signals some where. If you have a machine with ice cube relays I would pull each one out and check to see if any a fused together at the contact points. My best bet would be to check those relays first for stuck contactor.

 

[Washeduptoo]

Have you done a complete shut down and let the computer reboot? leave it off for a minute or more. Have someone watch the PLC lights while you manually move the machine with the control buttons. See if you get multiple lights coming on the PLC while you are doing this. If multiple lights come on when only lights for the functions you are activating then you have a problem in the PLC. If all the lights come on correct you have some wires or relays crossing signals some where. If you have a machine with ice cube relays I would pull each one out and check to see if any a fused together at the contact points. My best bet would be to check those relays first for stuck contactor.

Yeah. I've shut down all power. Actually left it off overnight. I haven't had a chance to go back today.

Is the gantry contactor supposed to be closed?

I'm digging through books now trying to find the info for relays. I've been pretty lucky with the OHD thru the years. This has really got me thrown for a loop.

Thanks

 

[MGSMN]

Is the gantry contactor supposed to be closed?
NO

Output Y13 controls the gantry drive/cooling water valve. Look to see if the output Y13 light is on. If not on, check to see there is 24v AC present on the output terminal, should be 0v if output is off (measuring from the output terminal to wire terminal #25 or ground). If there is voltage the output relay is stuck on and you will probably have to replace the PLC. If 0V on output the contactor is mechanically stuck and probably needs to be replaced.

If you don't have a test meter or light, remove coil wire #220 from the gantry contactor K61 and it should disengage/de-energize. Recommend you turn off the 3 phase high voltage while testing for safety.


Also check to see if either of the gantry drive inputs X45 or X46 is on. They should only be on if you are manually trying to drive the gantry with the drive switch.

 

[Washeduptoo]

Is the gantry contactor supposed to be closed?
NO

Output Y13 controls the gantry drive/cooling water valve. Look to see if the output Y13 light is on. If not on, check to see there is 24v AC present on the output terminal, should be 0v if output is off (measuring from the output terminal to wire terminal #25 or ground). If there is voltage the output relay is stuck on and you will probably have to replace the PLC. If 0V on output the contactor is mechanically stuck and probably needs to be replaced.

If you don't have a test meter or light, remove coil wire #220 from the gantry contactor K61 and it should disengage/de-energize. Recommend you turn off the 3 phase high voltage while testing for safety.


Also check to see if either of the gantry drive inputs X45 or X46 is on. They should only be on if you are manually trying to drive the gantry with the drive switch.

My man. Thanks for this info. Had a dead battery on my meter so had to remove wires.

Yes removing the 24v wire from the bottom of the the contactor opened it. Connected that back and then removed wire from the y13 terminal. That also opened contactor. Obviously there is constant charge on the Y13 terminal. With the contactor closed, why is the gantry not constantly trying to drive itself. I can move it to the middle and it just stays there.

1) So, is there any way to solve this except replacing PLC?

2) If not, best source for PLC? See then for $1300 at sonny's, $2100 with $700 core refund at astromatic, and for $4k from ryko.

3) Can I do this myself and will new PLC have to programmed in some way? Thanks

 

[MGSMN]

1) So, is there any way to solve this except replacing PLC?
Not really unless you are capable of replacing the relay inside the PLC which is soldered on a PCB.

2) If not, best source for PLC? See then for $1300 at sonny's, $2100 with $700 core refund at astromatic, and for $4k from ryko.
Check RDM.net.

3) Can I do this myself and will new PLC have to programmed in some way? Thanks
Replacing the PLC is easy enough as the wire terminals remove in sections. You will need the program module from the existing PLC and a handheld programmer to access the setup up menu and various timers. If you have a site server or code a wash connected to the machine you can print the existing settings and timer values in the PLC that will need to be set in the new PLC with the hand held programmer.

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

I just replaced a PLC on my Radius. Is there any value to the old one?

 

[MGSMN]

I just replaced a PLC on my Radius. Is there any value to the old one?
Check this list.

Cores Wanted

www.rdmcarwash.net

 

[Washeduptoo]

I just replaced a PLC on my Radius. Is there any value to the old one?

Where did you get the PLC, price of, and who installed? If you don't mind.

I just listed my car wash for sale. So, I'm not really game for a big repair. I think i'm leaning toward pulling the plc off and sending out to a control company for repair.

 

[MEP001]

Replacing the PLC is very easy. The entire terminal strip comes off with a couple screws. You do have to buy a replacement from someone who can pre-program it, but if a simple component such as a relay fails, it should be able to be repaired without it losing the programming.

 

[Washeduptoo]

Replacing the PLC is very easy. The entire terminal strip comes off with a couple screws. You do have to buy a replacement from someone who can pre-program it, but if a simple component such as a relay fails, it should be able to be repaired without it losing the programming.

Yeah, the replacement seems pretty straightforward with the caveat that the terminal strip comes off. I’m more worried that I’ll have to get Ryko out to program it. Think I may be able to save some coin and headache by sending it out for repair. I also have a soft gloss, which gets most of the washes at my site. So, the downtime may not be too painful.

 

[Waxman]

I would try to repair the one you have. To someone good at soldering, replacing a relay on a circuit board shouldn't be too hard, right?

If it also saves reprogramming that is a big plus!

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

Where did you get the PLC, price of, and who installed? If you don't mind.

I just listed my car wash for sale. So, I'm not really game for a big repair. I think i'm leaning toward pulling the plc off and sending out to a control company for repair.

I bought it through my distributor. It was $3600. I installed it myself. I didn't realize but I had to buy the EPROM from Ryko to flash the PLC That was another couple of hundred.

 

[Ryko CS]

It does sound like the PLC relay for Y13 is likely shorted on if that contactor K61 is pulling in.

Before you replace your PLC or get this one repaired, I'd recommend you have someone that has an HPP programming console write down how all of your setup questions and your D timers are currently programmed. If you are trading in your PLC, remove the program EEPROM from your PLC before you trade it so it may be reinstalled into your new PLC. If you keep that program EEPROM, someone just needs to key in all those setups and timers into the new PLC with an HPP to get it back to the way it was.

As others have said, actually replacing the PLC is easy. There are usually 4 strips of wires that can be removed together, and they just bolt down into the new one so you don't have to deal with all the individual wires.

 

[soapy]

The program should be in the chip on the PLC and can be moved from the old one to the new one. I think I would first unhook the wire for the water cooling feature and just run your wash without that feature. It is really only needed on super busy sites that run constantly.

 

[Washeduptoo]

The program should be in the chip on the PLC and can be moved from the old one to the new one. I think I would first unhook the wire for the water cooling feature and just run your wash without that feature. It is really only needed on super busy sites that run constantly.

I had that thought last night. Perhaps the water cooling feature is shorted on and is causing the constant signal. So, how do I go around the water cooling feature? THere is only one wire on Y13. Where should I be looking?

 

[Ryko CS]

Wire 220 from Y13 should go to a terminal strip, then branch out to the contacts of K61 and valve Y8 (cooling valve). If you remove that cooling valve wire, I'd recommend you jack up each corner of the machine, and remove the idler wheel to clean and put a light coating of fresh grease inside to reduce friction. If you don't, and lose the water cooling, it will reduce the possibility of binding.

 

[Washeduptoo]

Wire 220 from Y13 should go to a terminal strip, then branch out to the contacts of K61 and valve Y8 (cooling valve). If you remove that cooling valve wire, I'd recommend you jack up each corner of the machine, and remove the idler wheel to clean and put a light coating of fresh grease inside to reduce friction. If you don't, and lose the water cooling, it will reduce the possibility of binding.

Got it thanks.

 

[soapy]

I have run a OHD for years without the water cooling on the trolley. Just keep the wheels lubed. You could also move the wire to another output for the trolley drive and then it would come on when the trolley was being driven.

 

[Washeduptoo]

Ok. So, this is all coming together. Before this issue, I was having having an issue with the Q13 breaker tripping. Found a severely corroded solenoid under a water leak. Switched it out and the breaker issue was resolved. However, this was when the issue with the gantry contactor began. You guessed it. The severely corroded coil was for the cooling valve. I'm assuming this is what has shorted the relay in the PLC.

I removed the cooling valve wire and it did not open the contactor. I didn't pick up a battery for my multi-meter, so i was back to moving wires around. So, I switched wire y13 (k61 gantry) with y13 (k63 trolley). K61 opened and k63 closed. That settles it right? Open relay on the PLC.