Hamilton DRS Hopper Motor Swap

[Rfreeman]

Trying to swap a motor on one of my hoppers and having a hard time removing this piece (sorry don't know the specific part name)

I removed the 3/32nd Allen set screw now I'm trying to remove this piece to get to the 2 Phillips screws behind it which I believe are still holding the motor in place

Using a flat head screw driving I can get it to run forward just can't get it all the way off.

 

[Jsshac]

Trying to swap a motor on one of my hoppers and having a hard time removing this piece (sorry don't know the specific part name)

I removed the 3/32nd Allen set screw now I'm trying to remove this piece to get to the 2 Phillips screws behind it which I believe are still holding the motor in place

Using a flat head screw driving I can get it to run forward just can't get it all the way off.

Put a little oil on it if you got the set screw out you should be able to put a pair of channel lochs on it and turn it you probably have a burr on the shaft

 

[PrecisionPyro]

Do you have a steering wheel puller, or a pulley puller?

 

[MEP001]

I have a lot of trouble with those because I used to work with an idiot who wouldn't make sure the set screw was on the flat spot of the motor and it creates such a burr that you can't get it off easily. I can usually get it with two large flat blade screwdrivers wedged underneath, just twist them both. The twist-and-pull won't always work because it can just turn while hung in the burr.

 

[Randy]

That part is called the “Motor Hub” they can be stubborn to get off sometimes. I’ve done hundreds of motor replacements on the Hamilton HSH Hoppers. I made a small puller to get the motor Hub off. What you can do is get 2 10-32” x 2” screws and screw them into the Hub, work the Hub back and forth and pull at the same time, it you’re lucky it’ll come off. If that doesn’t work screw the screws though the Hub into the motor mount and push the Hub off the shaft, be careful to not damage the motor mount. When you go to install the new motor turn the motor so the flat part of the shaft on the new motor so it’s pointing down. Check fit the Hub on the new motor shaft, it should slip right on, if it doesn’t use some emery cloth or sand paper and smooth out the inside of the Hub. Put the 3/32” set back in the hub before you put the Hub on the motor. I put the coin wheel on the hub before I put it back on the motor and mark the coin wheel where the set screw is. Once you get the Hub and the coin wheel back on the hopper you need to adjust the clearance between the wheel and the face of the motor mount, you want to have about .005 clearance. I’ve got 2 hoppers on the bench to do in the morning, they come in waves. When you change the Hopper motor it’s a good idea to look at the bottom of the hopper bowl, looking for a groove cut into the bottom of the hopper bowl. That groove will cause the hopper to jam. The hopper motor is designed to stop on the back. If it jams too many times on the front it will ruin the hopper motor.

 

[toddmullens]

So what do you do if you have a groove in the bowl and the hopper is starting to jam more often? Sand the groove or replace the bowl/hopper?

 

[MEP001]

Replace the bowl.

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The Hamilton Changer 11-0017A hopper assembly coin bowl replaces a cracked, broken, or vandalized bowl in your Hamilton HSH hopper assembly.

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[Randy]

You might want to take a look at the motor mounting plate #11-0007. If it has a groove worn into the plate from the payout wheel it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it also.

 

[toddmullens]

You might want to take a look at the motor mounting plate #11-0007. If it has a groove worn into the plate from the payout wheel it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it also.

I ordered one with the motor mounted already. Hopper is only 20 years old. Probably due for new guts.

 

[Rfreeman]

Update so I was able to install the new motor on my hopper and get my machine up and running, its been a little over a month. Ironically, when I tested the motor on my bench it worked???? I don't think it was motor I believe it was the switch (I think that's what its called) where the quarters come out that counts (sends a pulse to the controller) each qtrs as it is discharged. I notices a lot of build up and the switch couldn't close all the way.

Reason for my post, since changing the motor is there any calibration that needs to be done? I ask because I just noticed since changing the motor my counter and the cash I collect doesn't reconcile. Its been approx $100 off give or take a few bucks on a weekly basis. I don't think someone is stringing it, I would think they would try to string it and take as much as they can and be done with it, but I'm not a criminal so I don't know. I noticed it appears this difference has started this month when I installed the new motor on one of the hoppers. I'm going to start and reconcile each side with the counter to see if I can isolate the difference to one side of the machine maybe the new motor side

 

[Rudy]

Your coin switch is out of adjustment. There are two styles...new and old. The old ones work better. If you are using quarters, there needs to be 1/8" gap set. Hamilton has instructions on how to do it (old style).

Supposedly, the new style doesn't need to be adjusted. I NEVER had one work correctly (when new) without slightly bending the sensing arm. I had to make small adjustments until the payout was correct. Once adjusted (bent)....they seem to work OK.

 

[Randy]

Did you replace the payout switch when you replaced the hopper motor? Either way the switch is out of adjustment. In some rare cases the motor brake could also be hanging up slightly. Check for any dirt, lint, debris under the switch arm. If your using the old style switch lift the switch arm and listen for 2 clicks on the down stroke, they'll be very faint, you want to have about a 1/6" of clearance between the switch arm and the plastic bowl on the second click. The newer style switch, it's the one that has it's own stainless steel mounting bracket. You want to bend the arm down very slightly and then when you install the switch use one of the old 4/40" screws from the old switch and screw it though the switch so it comes out of the bowl where the slot is in the bowl, put a washer and nut on the screw and tighten the mounting bracket so it's tight against the hopper bowl. This hold the switch up against the hopper bowl so it doesn't move and pushes the arm over a little so it's more in the coin path. Picture #4081 is without the screw though the body of the switch and #4083 has the screw though the switch and the switch is pulled up tight against in hopper bowl.

 

[MEP001]

Your coin switch is out of adjustment. There are two styles...new and old. The old ones work better. If you are using quarters, there needs to be 1/8" gap set. Hamilton has instructions on how to do it (old style).

Supposedly, the new style doesn't need to be adjusted. I NEVER had one work correctly (when new) without slightly bending the sensing arm. I had to make small adjustments until the payout was correct. Once adjusted (bent)....they seem to work OK.

I agree, they both usually have to be bent a little to get the adjustment the way it says, but the old one is much easier to get at to bend. I've installed at least a dozen of these new-style switch, and so far I've had about six out of 18 defective right out of the package where the counts are off. It turns out I can get the switch cheaper than what it costs to send the bad ones back to Hamilton.

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[Twodose]

you want to have about a 1/6" of clearance between the switch arm and the plastic bowl on the second click. The newer style switch, it's the one that has it's own stainless steel mounting bracket.

How new are the newer switches?, I mean how long have the newer switches been available, months, years?
I have 2 switches that had instructions like in the switch adjustment pdf below. I'm assuming the switches are the older style since there is no bracket attached.
Also did you mean 1/16th inch? On the pdf it says 1/16 for dime hoppers, 1/8 for all others.
I got the hopper payout switch adjustment pdf off of Hamilton's website, but didn't see anything about a newer switch adjustment.

 

[MEP001]

The new switches have been out for maybe five years. They aren't supposed to need adjustment, so there's no adjustment instructions, but they do usually need minor tweaking.