How do I open these?

[slash007]

I finally took my RO filter housings and need to check the o-rings and probably change the filters, but can't figure out how to get them open. I remember that when I first changed the out a few years ago it was difficult, but am not sure how I got them open. Does the black part just pop out of the stainless housing? If so, any tips on how to get it to move? Thanks.

I have the u-pin style at my other wash and they are so easy to work on. Thinking about just buying two new housings if I can't find an easy way to open these. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-33397-ami-components-pv4040ssau-316-housing-u-pin-style-4-x-40.aspx

 

[traveler17]

Is the black part rubber? looks like you should be able to pry it up

 

[MEP001]

Is there a clamp on it that you've already removed? I'd probably try to pound the plastic cap out of the housing with a rubber mallet, or use a pair of screwdrivers to pry it out. I assume there's an o-ring around the plastic cap that's making it difficult to remove. Make sure you use some silicone grease when you reassemble it.

 

[slash007]

Is there a clamp on it that you've already removed? I'd probably try to pound the plastic cap out of the housing with a rubber mallet, or use a pair of screwdrivers to pry it out. I assume there's an o-ring around the plastic cap that's making it difficult to remove. Make sure you use some silicone grease when you reassemble it.

I did take the clamp off that was on the black rubber part. I figured you just pry it out, but was afraid to damage the housing. I tried a little with some flat screwdrivers, but it didn't budge so I figured I'd see if there was an easier way. There are o-rings inside on the black part.

 

[semocarwasher]

It will pry up. 2 Flat blade screw drivers is best way i have found.

 

[traveler17]

I did take the clamp off that was on the black rubber part. I figured you just pry it out, but was afraid to damage the housing. I tried a little with some flat screwdrivers, but it didn't budge so I figured I'd see if there was an easier way. There are o-rings inside on the black part.

That is the exact housing I have at one wash. Has an O ring seated just below the lip. Like MEP said use a rubber mallet and a flathead

 

[MEP001]

I don't recommend this, but if you "bump" the system on a couple times it will gently pop the cap out. Or it'll blow it out so hard it'll leave a dent in the ceiling, but it still does the job.

 

[slash007]

I don't recommend this, but if you "bump" the system on a couple times it will gently pop the cap out. Or it'll blow it out so hard it'll leave a dent in the ceiling, but it still does the job.

Lol too late, but I would have tried that. I just remember having the hardest time when I worked on them last. I'm pretty sure it's just a bad internal o-ring in there, but being so hard to open, I'm just going to go ahead and replace the membranes while I'm at it.

 

[Randy]

Back in the day when we had to change these we'd put about 5 lbs.of air pressure to the unit and they'd pop apart. But be very careful not to put to much air to it or you could get hurt. We had a cage that we used when we had to open one.

 

[slash007]

I was able to get one open by using a flat screwdriver and a mallet and lots of arm strength. I had to get the screw driver in, then work my way all around a few times until it was open enough to finish prying it open with a larger screw driver. I replaced the membrane in one so far, but it turns out the internal o-rings I bought were too large, so I just put it back together and am hoping that the membrane was the issue and not the 0-rings. If I still have the same problem with TDS, I'll have to do this crap all over again. Even putting the caps back on was a bi***h.

 

[slash007]

These are the internal o rings I bought. They are too thick. Anyone know where I can find thinner O-rings?

Kleen-Rite Corporation - Internal O-Ring for 2.5" & 4" End Caps

Internal O-Ring for 2.5" & 4" End Caps

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

 

[mac]

What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.

 

[slash007]

What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.

Great idea. Might give that a shot next time if these hold up. I ended up using a thinner flat head all around, then a medium flat head, then a larger one to finish it off. Wasn't too bad after the 1st cap. I ended up getting everything changed and on a 3:2 ratio, TDS is about 8, so I'm ok for now I think. Was over 120 before I changed the membranes. Was really hoping to get to 5 or lower on TDS, but would probably have to have a 3:3 ratio for that.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.

This is the way we do it - by inserting a threaded nipple into the center port. Best not to pry it.

Russ