CWR car wash equipment questions

[Mike Klick]

I recently purchased an old carwash built in 1985. It is a 5 bay self serve with CWR equipment. I have several issues im working on but the worst thing that just offered is I had some of my 24 volt wiring insulation melt today. I had a couple of 24 volt wires break from the terminal block and I replaced them when this happened. Not sure if its something I did or another problem.

I think one or more of the members here are familiar with this equipment and maybe worked for CWR.

Would love to have some wiring diagrams etc.

Need help, thanks in advance.

 

[MEP001]

I think one or more of the members here are familiar with this equipment and maybe worked for CWR.

That would be me.

The wires that melted are the main voltage from the transformer that go through the thermal overload of the motor starter before it gets to the terminal strip. I don't have wiring diagrams, but it's very simple. Left to right on that terminal strip is tire cleaner (orange), presoak (pink), soap solenoid (white), foam brush (tan), rinse (gray), wax solenoid (blue), spot free (red), motor starter (brown), unused (purple), unused (green), 24v hot (yellow), 24v "common" (black).

It looks like you have dead shorted the hot and common. There should be a wire that comes from the right bottom terminal of the transformer and goes straight to the 24v common bus where they are all jumpered together. The other side of the transformer goes to 95 terminal on the thermal overload, then 96 out to the yellow wire terminal on the strip. That will at least get you power.

I can't tell what's happened with the relay. I'm guessing you either have the IDX pushbutton controls in the bay or you have a PR-1000A regulator on the inlet of the pump and two solenoids to control water supply to it. I'm guessing you're in Oklahoma?

 

[Randy]

What a flipp’n mess. Whoever wired that did a terrible job to begin with. The best thing you can do is start over and put a fuse on the power supply. On a side note it looks like your solenoid valve coils aren’t installed on the valves. If you power up the system without the coils installed on valves the coils will get hot and can damage the coil, it can also draw to many amps.

 

[Mike Klick]

That would be me.

The wires that melted are the main voltage from the transformer that go through the thermal overload of the motor starter before it gets to the terminal strip. I don't have wiring diagrams, but it's very simple. Left to right on that terminal strip is tire cleaner (orange), presoak (pink), soap solenoid (white), foam brush (tan), rinse (gray), wax solenoid (blue), spot free (red), motor starter (brown), unused (purple), unused (green), 24v hot (yellow), 24v "common" (black).

It looks like you have dead shorted the hot and common. There should be a wire that comes from the right bottom terminal of the transformer and goes straight to the 24v common bus where they are all jumpered together. The other side of the transformer goes to 95 terminal on the thermal overload, then 96 out to the yellow wire terminal on the strip. That will at least get you power.

I can't tell what's happened with the relay. I'm guessing you either have the IDX pushbutton controls in the bay or you have a PR-1000A regulator on the inlet of the pump and two solenoids to control water supply to it. I'm guessing you're in Oklahoma?

Thank you for your detailed response. This is very helpful. Attached is a pic of my bay control panel. You are correct I am in Oklahoma.

My first thought on this carwash was to remove all equipment and put in a newer system, however after having it for several months I am assuming I can replace anything bad and make it work almost like new which is my intent.

Im sure I did the dead short you are saying, I most likely when I reattached a couple of the wires that had broken from the terminal replaced them backwards to create the dead short.

Can I just replace the wires correctly or do you think there is other damage?



Another problem that just occurred with another bay is after the bay timer stops the wash continues to operate......not sure what I need to check first on this problem.

 

[Mike Klick]

What a flipp’n mess. Whoever wired that did a terrible job to begin with. The best thing you can do is start over and put a fuse on the power supply. On a side note it looks like your solenoid valve coils aren’t installed on the valves. If you power up the system without the coils installed on valves the coils will get hot and can damage the coil, it can also draw to many amps.

I thought the same thing on the wiring being a mess to begin with.

I have recently purchased this car wash and want to either bring in a new system that is more modern or keep this system and just replace any and all equipment that needs replacing.

I am also planning on going from accepting quarters only and an 8 selection bay panel to wanting to go to a 10 panel and begin able to accept any quarters or tokens, bills and credit cards. (I have another larger wash in town and we accept tokens there)


Any help from you, MEP001 and others are much appreciated.

 

[Randy]

My equipment was installed in 1982 and works better today than it did when it was first installed. Everyone who buys an old car wash thinks that they have to replace the equipment, most of the time that's not the case. Keep plugging away at fixing things that aren't working correctly and pretty soon you'll have a better working knowledge of how everything is supposed to work and repairing a problem will be a lot simpler. Credit cards yes, bill validators no way.
Think security before you install bill validators in the bays, they are a problematic target, easy money for the thieves.

 

[MEP001]

The equipment we used to build is very solid. The wiring in your case was done by Rex, who barely knew what he was doing. I recognize his handiwork. As bad as it looks, most of that wiring is pretty solid for being only 22 gauge, but I very often had to go back and redo some because of the crimps vibrating loose. I'm sure I can give you a list of fifty things you'll find that he would do that you'll find, like the yellow and black wires being swapped at the coin acceptor hookup, which would always confuse the wash owner when they went to replace it.

One thing he did often for some reason was use Paloma heaters and the zero-pressure regulators for the water supply. If you aren't currently running hot water and don't plan to for a while, I would recommend adding a tank about 15-20 gallons for the pumps to pull from. It will reduce a lot of maintenance and simplify things. Like Randy said, the two DEMA solenoids need to have the solenoids in the coils or you might harm the coils or burn up more wiring. I use only 18 gauge wire for the control voltage.

 

[Mike Klick]

The equipment we used to build is very solid. The wiring in your case was done by Rex, who barely knew what he was doing. I recognize his handiwork. As bad as it looks, most of that wiring is pretty solid for being only 22 gauge, but I very often had to go back and redo some because of the crimps vibrating loose. I'm sure I can give you a list of fifty things you'll find that he would do that you'll find, like the yellow and black wires being swapped at the coin acceptor hookup, which would always confuse the wash owner when they went to replace it.

One thing he did often for some reason was use Paloma heaters and the zero-pressure regulators for the water supply. If you aren't currently running hot water and don't plan to for a while, I would recommend adding a tank about 15-20 gallons for the pumps to pull from. It will reduce a lot of maintenance and simplify things. Like Randy said, the two DEMA solenoids need to have the solenoids in the coils or you might harm the coils or burn up more wiring. I use only 18 gauge wire for the control voltage.

MEP001, thank you for your help.

Do you know what would keep my bay running after the time runs out on the controller?

I just recently had one of my bays start that.

 

[MEP001]

It's most likely the timer.