Hamilton Coin Changer Upgrade - ideas

[Mattwash]

Hello, I finally installed my new coin changer. Had a giant block of concrete poured around it. Im wondering have people done anything special to cover the locks on the Hamilton changer to prevent theft? I welded stainless steel flat bar around the face of the changer so I could have a place to secure if I added another stainless locking system to cover up the factory locks. Here are a couple of pictures from what my old changer locks look like. Thoughts?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I used a different brand of this setup about 8 years ago. I added a couple more touches to make it even more secure. I wrote an article on it that was published in the SSCWN. I’m think it’s in a 2016 or 17 issue.

 

[Mattwash]

I like the idea of these puck locks. I just feel I need another deterrent. Is this your article?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Yes, that’s it.

 

[MEP001]

I don't know what the LAI "puck" locks are made of, but I really like the Cobra locks. They're hardened steel and can be ordered with a Medeco insert. They aren't 100% entry-proof, but they're a million times better than MasterLock or American 2000, both of which can be opened with a comb pick just as fast as with the key or melted apart in a few minutes with a regular plumber's torch.

FWIW LAI also has the barrel with the lock tab that accepts the original Medeco insert.

 

[Mattwash]

I don't know what the LAI "puck" locks are made of, but I really like the Cobra locks. They're hardened steel and can be ordered with a Medeco insert. They aren't 100% entry-proof, but they're a million times better than MasterLock or American 2000, both of which can be opened with a comb pick just as fast as with the key or melted apart in a few minutes with a regular plumber's torch.

FWIW LAI also has the barrel with the lock tab that accepts the original Medeco insert.

Do you have an image? I have changed almost all my locks over to the Equipment Lock Company Puck lock. Don’t know if they are easy to pick but definitely more difficult than the master or American.

Puck Lock | Containers & Storage | The Equipment Lock Co.

Protect your valuables with an unbeatable Puck Lock for trailers, gates, and storage containers. With a hardened steel shackle, this is the ultimate security solution.

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[MEP001]

Do you have an image? I have changed almost all my locks over to the Equipment Lock Company Puck lock. Don’t know if they are easy to pick but definitely more difficult than the master or American.

Puck Lock | Containers & Storage | The Equipment Lock Co.

Protect your valuables with an unbeatable Puck Lock for trailers, gates, and storage containers. With a hardened steel shackle, this is the ultimate security solution.

equipmentlock.com

I have a tool that's made for impressioning the tubular lock which will open that in about five seconds.

There's an image of the Cobra Lock puck lock in the article you posted. It's just a puck, it doesn't have the step on the underside like the MasterLock puck.

 

[Greg Pack]

I've got a system like LAI kit that uses Standard American locks and it's a snap to install.

You changer is accessed from the outside, which I don't care for at all. If you're in for the long haul and have the ability to find a used rear access changer I'd recommend looking for one.

These locks and that door are simply a layer of resistance. I would spend the money on alarm/electronics. Cameras are great to see what happened, but aren't as much of a deterrent as we would like to think. A friend of mine is using yolink devices at his carwash to monitor and control most everything. He used their vibration detectors on all his equipment. They alerted him when a break in attempt on a vacuum happened. A ring alarm system stopped a break in at my wash about two years ago. The thief broke in the back door and walked in my office. When he heard the alarm counting down he simply turned around and walked out, not grabbing a thing. Ring is $100 per year and gives me great peace of mind.

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[Mattwash]

I've got a system like LAI kit that uses Standard American locks and it's a snap to install.

You changer is accessed from the outside, which I don't care for at all. If you're in for the long haul and have the ability to find a used rear access changer I'd recommend looking for one.

These locks and that door are simply a layer of resistance. I would spend the money on alarm/electronics. Cameras are great to see what happened, but aren't as much of a deterrent as we would like to think. A friend of mine is using yolink devices at his carwash to monitor and control most everything. He used their vibration detectors on all his equipment. They alerted him when a break in attempt on a vacuum happened. A ring alarm system stopped a break in at my wash about two years ago. The thief broke in the back door and walked in my office. When he heard the alarm counting down he simply turned around and walked out, not grabbing a thing. Ring is $100 per year and gives me great peace of mind.

YoLink Products - Longest Range, By Far!

Shop online for YoLink's smart home automation system including: water leak solutions, door sensors, temperature and humidity sensors, smart garages, smart sirens, and more!

shop.yosmart.com

I will definitely look into Yolink. My pump room is made of corrugated metal siding, which is easy to pull off panels and break into. I opted to go to for front load changer, just so if someone tried to break in, it would be visible from the highway. As for changing up the changer, this is brand new and I just had the concrete poured. I can fabricate something if someone has some images for ideas. My MIG is outfitted for stainless, just need to buy supplies.

 

[Mattwash]

I have a tool that's made for impressioning the tubular lock which will open that in about five seconds.

There's an image of the Cobra Lock puck lock in the article you posted. It's just a puck, it doesn't have the step on the underside like the MasterLock puck.

Thank you. I will look at changing the locks over to cobra lock.

 

[edredtop]

I will definitely look into Yolink. My pump room is made of corrugated metal siding, which is easy to pull off panels and break into. I opted to go to for front load changer, just so if someone tried to break in, it would be visible from the highway. As for changing up the changer, this is brand new and I just had the concrete poured. I can fabricate something if someone has some images for ideas. My MIG is outfitted for stainless, just need to buy supplies.

Nice set up.
Some observation FWIW.
Street side is good but a determined thief will park parallel to the changer with a big van or SUV blocking the view of their activity and still go for it.
Nothing you can do about that so the goal is to make it appear so difficult, they won't try.
Since thieves are idiots they will still try, lol...
IMHO layering plenty of quality locks is good for slowing them down. Time is your friend and their enemy. The longer they are there, the better the chance they get noticed by you, a customer, or a passerby.
As much as possible, take away their angles to attack a lock. Welding a block of stainless steel right next to a key hole that faces it will take away drill angles and save you from many amateur attempts.
Try a 'ring' smoke alarm listener in the changer with two smoke alarms in case they try to torch or cut their way in. When the smoke alarm goes off, the ring does too.
Put 'ring' alarm speakers in the changer as well so that when the smoke alarms go off, it trips the ring and the ring goes off all over the property.
Place a hidden security camera directly over the changer and set it to motion so it alerts your phone when someone is at the changer, I usually turn mine off during the day, except rainy days, because thieves are idiots and try to break in when there is no business and no dough.
I put a custom cut 3/8" thick stainless-steel plate on the front of the changer door because battery powered tools from Harbor Freight can make short work of a stock changer door.
Put bollards 48" deep into concrete that are 10 to 12" in diameter in front of it. Fill them with concrete.
Using Red Head fasteners to hold a bollard down is a waste of time because thieves are thieves, and they will use a stolen vehicle to ram it.
With all of that said, your bill changer isn't going anywhere because even if they smash into it, they won't be able to pick it up, but it'll ruin your day. You can do everything right, but there's always a knucklehead that'll test your security and make for an unexpectedly long day or days.
As an example, a friend of mine had a pretty solid set up at his location and a couple of California's finest stole a dump truck and backed it over his pay station.

 

[Mattwash]

Nice set up.
Some observation FWIW.
Street side is good but a determined thief will park parallel to the changer with a big van or SUV blocking the view of their activity and still go for it.
Nothing you can do about that so the goal is to make it appear so difficult, they won't try.
Since thieves are idiots they will still try, lol...
IMHO layering plenty of quality locks is good for slowing them down. Time is your friend and their enemy. The longer they are there, the better the chance they get noticed by you, a customer, or a passerby.
As much as possible, take away their angles to attack a lock. Welding a block of stainless steel right next to a key hole that faces it will take away drill angles and save you from many amateur attempts.
Try a 'ring' smoke alarm listener in the changer with two smoke alarms in case they try to torch or cut their way in. When the smoke alarm goes off, the ring does too.
Put 'ring' alarm speakers in the changer as well so that when the smoke alarms go off, it trips the ring and the ring goes off all over the property.
Place a hidden security camera directly over the changer and set it to motion so it alerts your phone when someone is at the changer, I usually turn mine off during the day, except rainy days, because thieves are idiots and try to break in when there is no business and no dough.
I put a custom cut 3/8" thick stainless-steel plate on the front of the changer door because battery powered tools from Harbor Freight can make short work of a stock changer door.
Put bollards 48" deep into concrete that are 10 to 12" in diameter in front of it. Fill them with concrete.
Using Red Head fasteners to hold a bollard down is a waste of time because thieves are thieves, and they will use a stolen vehicle to ram it.
With all of that said, your bill changer isn't going anywhere because even if they smash into it, they won't be able to pick it up, but it'll ruin your day. You can do everything right, but there's always a knucklehead that'll test your security and make for an unexpectedly long day or days.
As an example, a friend of mine had a pretty solid set up at his location and a couple of California's finest stole a dump truck and backed it over his pay station.

These are some really good ideas. I’ve already been looking into getting a plate of stainless and welding it onto the door, while beefing up the locks.
Never thought about one of those smoke detectors. Super cheap and gives me piece of mind.

I’ve actually thought about doing something similar on the front, like you see at ATM’s. Doing a stainless plate that swings over the door with some different locking mechanisms.

do you have an example of this? “Welding a block of stainless steel right next to a key hole that faces it will take away drill angles”

 

[MEP001]

do you have an example of this? “Welding a block of stainless steel right next to a key hole that faces it will take away drill angles”

You want to block the keyway so you can still get the key in it, but not get a drill at it.

 

[edredtop]

These are some really good ideas. I’ve already been looking into getting a plate of stainless and welding it onto the door, while beefing up the locks.
Never thought about one of those smoke detectors. Super cheap and gives me piece of mind.

I’ve actually thought about doing something similar on the front, like you see at ATM’s. Doing a stainless plate that swings over the door with some different locking mechanisms.

do you have an example of this? “Welding a block of stainless steel right next to a key hole that faces it will take away drill angles”

Here's one example on my vacuums. A stock security cover has the keyhole hanging out in the breeze and I would get about 4 or 5 attempts a year (yes, even with the "tokens only" decals on there, smh)
Getting a drilled Abus lock out of one of these is not fun.
Anyway, the addition of these extra boxes of stainless has eliminated a decade of headaches in that area.

A few more thoughts:
Whenever possible, and if it will be effective, I try to face my keyholes to the left.
85 to 90% of the world's population is right handed and if I can force a thief work harder by making them use their non-dominant hand to drill, I will.
Be careful when applying additions to your design in that you don't want to create a fulcrum to aid a pry-bar attempt, one of the most basic tools of the criminal trade.

 

[Mattwash]

Here's one example on my vacuums. A stock security cover has the keyhole hanging out in the breeze and I would get about 4 or 5 attempts a year (yes, even with the "tokens only" decals on there, smh)
Getting a drilled Abus lock out of one of these is not fun.
Anyway, the addition of these extra boxes of stainless has eliminated a decade of headaches in that area.

A few more thoughts:
Whenever possible, and if it will be effective, I try to face my keyholes to the left.
85 to 90% of the world's population is right handed and if I can force a thief work harder by making them use their non-dominant hand to drill, I will.
Be careful when applying additions to your design in that you don't want to create a fulcrum to aid a pry-bar attempt, one of the most basic tools of the criminal trade.

Very impressive. So you basically build a little box over the lock?

Here is a pic of my bay. Out of curiosity, what would you do to protect these puck locks?


I am using the puck locks on my vacuums. Already had one thief who used a torch to cut my abus lock off, so I switched to the puck. But thinking would also look at building a box on these locks too.

 

[Mattwash]

Here's one example on my vacuums. A stock security cover has the keyhole hanging out in the breeze and I would get about 4 or 5 attempts a year (yes, even with the "tokens only" decals on there, smh)
Getting a drilled Abus lock out of one of these is not fun.
Anyway, the addition of these extra boxes of stainless has eliminated a decade of headaches in that area.

A few more thoughts:
Whenever possible, and if it will be effective, I try to face my keyholes to the left.
85 to 90% of the world's population is right handed and if I can force a thief work harder by making them use their non-dominant hand to drill, I will.
Be careful when applying additions to your design in that you don't want to create a fulcrum to aid a pry-bar attempt, one of the most basic tools of the criminal trade.

Is this a JE Adam’s addon for the coin box? And you just fabricated the box on the side? Just curious before I go and spend hours trying to fabricate this outfit.
Went and emptied my change yesterday and saw that someone tried to pry the puck lock that I had on my vacuum. They didn’t do too much damage but oddly enough this happens when i am talking to others about beefing up the coin boxes.

 

[edredtop]

Is this a JE Adam’s addon for the coin box? And you just fabricated the box on the side? Just curious before I go and spend hours trying to fabricate this outfit.
Went and emptied my change yesterday and saw that someone tried to pry the puck lock that I had on my vacuum. They didn’t do too much damage but oddly enough this happens when i am talking to others about beefing up the coin boxes.

Yes.
It was pretty straight forward: 4 pieces of 3/8" thick stainless to make the box. The front piece is longer than the back piece for the disc lock. However, I did put a small blocker piece in once the lock was in place with two slightly better than tack-welds so that if a dummy tries, I can hammer out the blocker, get at, and replace the lock. The blocker piece is to make the lock out of sight, out of mind and to offer some "slow down time" protection against a torch.
Once you have it set up, I have learned to slide a flat head screwdriver behind the lock and move the lock towards the key to aid in opening. It's not necessary, but it works perfectly every time.
Vacuum Coin Box Metal Security Cover | J.E. Adams 8202W (kleen-ritecorp.com)
-or-
Steel Vacuum Coin Box Protective Cover | J.E. Adams | 8940-1W (kleen-ritecorp.com)

 

[Mattwash]

Yes.
It was pretty straight forward: 4 pieces of 3/8" thick stainless to make the box. The front piece is longer than the back piece for the disc lock. However, I did put a small blocker piece in once the lock was in place with two slightly better than tack-welds so that if a dummy tries, I can hammer out the blocker, get at, and replace the lock. The blocker piece is to make the lock out of sight, out of mind and to offer some "slow down time" protection against a torch.
Once you have it set up, I have learned to slide a flat head screwdriver behind the lock and move the lock towards the key to aid in opening. It's not necessary, but it works perfectly every time.
Vacuum Coin Box Metal Security Cover | J.E. Adams 8202W (kleen-ritecorp.com)
-or-
Steel Vacuum Coin Box Protective Cover | J.E. Adams | 8940-1W (kleen-ritecorp.com)

Thank you! I just bought some 3/8 stainless flat bar. Have some ideas for mimicking this. But may implement it and then reinforce with the flat bar.