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$2K-ish in pumps/motors, probably $500-$750 in additional parts, and the time($$) to get it functional(if you can) and you'll still have an obsolete machine with limited factory support.
The hp pump seems to be okay, the procon will probably need a new pump head, it works but its bulged like it may have froze. The solenoids and stuff probably just need cleaned. I will probably need a wiring diagram and parts diagram to get it up and running. Im curious, what I can do to salvage what I have and bring it up to modern standards as economically as possible?
 

Buckeye Hydro

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No, you need to know the hardness and total dissolved solids.
Hardness is not included in that data (which is typical for these annual reports). But there is a point of contact - call that phone number and ask them:

1. What disinfectant do they use - chlorine or chloramine? The answer will affect the size and type of media you need in the carbon tank prior to the RO system.
2. What is the Total Hardness.

Russ
 

Buckeye Hydro

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I'd give that one a shot. If no freeze damage it might still be functional. I've seen worse in service. You will likely need a new membrane
Without a doubt - remove the sediment filter and RO membrane and sanitize the system (we can provide detailed instructions).
What that system uses is a 20" x 2.5" 5 micron sediment filter and a 2540 Membrane. All readily available stuff.

Also - you'll want to get that system indoors, or at least out of the sun/weather.
 
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Buckeye Hydro

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$2K-ish in pumps/motors, probably $500-$750 in additional parts, and the time($$) to get it functional(if you can) and you'll still have an obsolete machine with limited factory support.
Looks like you'll also need new pressure gauges and flow meters. Also - that system does not have a recycle function.
 
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Dan kamsickas

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Also - that system does not have a recycle function.
Yes it does. There is a needle valve to adjust the amount of reject water recirculated although I doubt it's any good at this point.

The hp pump seems to be okay, the procon will probably need a new pump head, it works but its bulged like it may have froze. The solenoids and stuff probably just need cleaned. I will probably need a wiring diagram and parts diagram to get it up and running. Im curious, what I can do to salvage what I have and bring it up to modern standards as economically as possible?
I seriously doubt the delivery pump is any good and if it is there's much life left in it. Salvaging a 20+ year old obsolete machine makes zero economic sense. How much is your time worth? It's not free.
 

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A 50% recovery is not the same as recycling a known quantity of the concentrate. But this discussion is not benefiting the OP.
 

Dan kamsickas

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A 50% recovery is not the same as recycling a known quantity of the concentrate. But this discussion is not benefiting the OP.
The amount being recycle is going to vary machine to machine to achieve the 1:1 ratio. Too much focus on the amount and not the end result gets too confusing for most operators. This is all important knowledge, IMHO, for the OP.
 

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Finally got to work on hooking up the delivery system today. I can’t seem to get the pump to prime. Does anybody have any pointers. The pump kicks on but there’s no water flow.
 

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I can hear the solenoids click open but the pump isn’t pulling water up from the intake tube.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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That pump needs to be supplied with pressurized water. Don't run it dry for even a moment.
 

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This is the pump on your RO system we're talking about, correct?

Assuming that's right, the pump won't "suck" water to the intake side. The water feeding the intake side of the pump should be at ~ 40 psi or more
 

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This is on the repressurization/delivery system that is sending water out to the bays. It’s not the production unit.
 
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cbchevy4x4

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This is on the repressurization/delivery system that is sending water out to the bays. It’s not the production unit.
To give you honest real life answers these pumps no matter the useage production or delivery prefer to have pressurized water to them, although i have been running the same pump for almost 20 years in a delivery system with 0 issues that is gravity fed.

On the intake line put a check valve nothing fancy just one you get from lowes or home depot for a well repressurizaton system to help ensure prime is kept. Make sure the water level in the storage tank is above the level of the inlet side of the pump so the pump is being gravity fed, you need to make sure your production pump turns on before the level gets to the inlet side of the delivery pump, this is your first fail safe the 2nd is the check valve. To get prime bust that hose clamp loose on the inlet barb and wiggle the hose back and forth to burp the air out but make sure your water level in the tank is above the inlet, then tighten back up hose clamp it should suck that last little bit of air out in about .5 second and be good to go from there.
 

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Lot of good info from cbchevy, only thing I would add is make sure your discharge is wide open. Might be worth taking off the discharge hose and pumping into a bucket or something to prime the pump
 

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Thanks. I’ll give that a shot. I’m guessing I should raise the low water shut off up to the level of the pump inlet?
 
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