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Blowers/Drying Agent

Jon

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What is your guys blower & Drying Agent setup?

I am currently have 4 Baldor motor blowers. 2 of which we use the elephant attachment.

Thinking about getting a sonny mammoth blower to get the car drier. Converting my was to a express style so I don’t want complaints about cars being too wet ( we used to towel dry full service)

Also what would you recommend the best drying agent combinations?
 

Earl Weiss

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Rinse to get rid of soap residue with a small injection of DA, then DA, Then Setting arch. 10 feet then Blowers. If less available feet Blwer 1 foot from setting then the rest as far away as possible.
 
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washnshine

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Spot free rain bar after your DA of choice followed immediately by a 15 Hp flash dry positioned directly above and centered will strip massive amounts of water off the top portion of the car quickly. Then let the rest of your blower array finish off what is left. Mammoth blowers are great for drying off the sides down to the rocker panels. A quick flash while the water is still moving from the rain bar is key to a really dry finished product.
 
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Jon

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Spot free rain bar after your DA of choice followed immediately by a 15 Hp flash dry positioned directly above and centered will strip massive amounts of water off the top portion of the car quickly. Then let the rest of your blower array finish off what is left. Mammoth blowers are great for drying off the sides down to the rocker panels. A quick flash while the water is still moving from the rain bar is key to a really dry finished product.
Sorry, I am a newbie but is there a difference between spot free rinse and a regular water rinse? We have the drying agent right after the rinse.
 

soapy

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Spot free rinse water has the hardness removed from a water softner and RO system down to less than 40 ppm of dissolved solids. Regular rinse water is basically tap water. Water hardness varies around the country. My water hardness is 22 grains which is about 2200 ppm of dissolved solids and that will leave bad water spots on a car.
 

DavidM

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The chemistry setup in your tunnel is important too. It is important to finish with a low pH products before you start rinsing and drying.
 

washnshine

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Agree with all of above
Get rid of DA

Get the car acidic
Then ceramic/Graphene
Spot free rinse
Dryest car you ll ever have
For now!
Agree with you ShinePro, but what do you do for a basic wash or mid level wash that doesn’t have your graphene in the package? Do you use a drying agent for those washes or a much more diluted graphene application?
 

ShinePro

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Agree with you ShinePro, but what do you do for a basic wash or mid level wash that doesn’t have your graphene in the package? Do you use a drying agent for those washes or a much more diluted graphene application?
I use a hybrid ceramic full rate applied after the graphene before the SFR
On the bottom washes I just apply the hybrid ceramic at half rate.
 

Roz

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Don't worry about about spending a few extra cents on the bottom washes as you will have a stellar reputation and happy customers for all your packages.
 

DiamondWash

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I'd love to see a video of everybody's Graphene application, I'm only using 8-10mls with 40psi of air through my Razor Hyperflex, some customers have complained they don't think it's being applied because it doesn't foam up like my other products.
 

ShinePro

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I ll take you one as soon as we get back above freezing 🥶

i have Razor3’s.
I apply 30mls thru the arch
My air might be closer to 50 psi
Then 25 mls of Ceramic thru flex pass
Then SFR
All my current videos are too long to attach
 
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