D&S 5000 Float Valve

[BillClinton]

I came in my equipment room this morning and the rinse tank on the D&S 5000 is running over. I think I need to replace the float valve. I turned off the water and drew down the water level, then turned the water back on to see it refill. There is a little hole on the left-bottom side of the float valve that constantly has a stream of water running out of it. Can anyone tell me what part to order from Kleen Rite? I think it is a "Watermaster" valve, but I don't know what size, model number, presure, etc. Can you D&S owners help me out? I don't want to disable the wash to take the existing one off until I have a replacement.
Thanks,

 

[Red Baron]

I came in my equipment room this morning and the rinse tank on the D&S 5000 is running over. I think I need to replace the float valve. I turned off the water and drew down the water level, then turned the water back on to see it refill. There is a little hole on the left-bottom side of the float valve that constantly has a stream of water running out of it. Can anyone tell me what part to order from Kleen Rite? I think it is a "Watermaster" valve, but I don't know what size, model number, presure, etc. Can you D&S owners help me out? I don't want to disable the wash to take the existing one off until I have a replacement.
Thanks,

Lowes has them in stock in the aisle with their swamp coolers.

 

[Red Baron]

Lowes has 2 models, one with a green float and one with blue. Get the blue one as the green one might be too long and hit the tank partition. That end piece just unscrews and screw in the new one from Lowes. Also, the sock one has a spring in it but it doesn't seem to need the spring when you replace it.

 

[washme1]

I recently had a similar problem on my D & S Quicksilver. I ordered a 1" Watermaster diaphram from Windtrax which goes inside the round housing that is about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and held together with about twenty small screws. Be careful not to lose the screws when removing them.

 

[Red Baron]

I recently had a similar problem on my D & S Quicksilver. I ordered a 1" Watermaster diaphram from Windtrax which goes inside the round housing that is about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and held together with about twenty small screws. Be careful not to lose the screws when removing them.

I've accumulated a pile of those Watermaster ball valves. They work great for city water pressure line, but the low pressure would not reliably close the valve on my reject water line. Following MEP's advice I ordered a 1" Robert Bob Float Valve - a little more pricey but a lot more robust. Since installing it I've noticed that I'm using up the water in the reject tank a lot faster as it's more free flowing.