What's new

Anyone modified for low pressure drying aid AND CCP on wizards?

Etowah

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
4,391
Reaction score
2,169
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
Just bought a new location with one firstgen wizard and one 2.0. I really would like to make both units look as close as possible to the other. I'm thinking of modifying the both the presoak and wax applications.

I want to produce a drier car and reduce overall costs. I'm planning on modifying both units. I'm thinking of applying drying aid through a Sonny's low pressure rain arch attached to the exit end of the gantry. For the output I thought I would use a DPDT relay to both open the motor contactor circuit and turn on a flojet pump. I've also thought about trying what some Mark VIIs do and apply the drying aid on the same pass as SFR. This would require a setup that would shoot the drying aid forward of the gantry a few feet.

For RAIN-X I'm thinking of trying the application with K nozzles. I could use another output such as HP soap, reclaim, etc.

Any comments? Has anyone out there modified their wizard to apply low pressure drying aid/ccp and a premium product such as RAIN-X? If so, are there any pitfalls? Any other tips would be appreciated.

TIA
 

easy2wash

WW 2.0/4SS/5 Vacs/Detail
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
St. Helens, OR
lp wax/ccp

We have one ww2.0 and we tried installing an arch in the boom, but was not satisfied w/ the results. We modified ours to use the SFR nozzles that produce a vortex? spray on top and fan spray on sides. Better coverage, uses a little more product, but cars get coated better and customers are happier.
 

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
4,391
Reaction score
2,169
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
Right now I gone to two CCP passes in a row on the water wizards. The first is High pressure and the second is medium pressure with no boom down. The purpose of this is to allow the CCP product to move out through the gantry plumbing during the first pass, and by the second pass I get one complete pass of CCP over the entire surface of the vehicle. This has resulted in a much better beading action over the entire surface and a much drier car. The thing I do not like about it is that CCP is now my last HP pass. As a result the HP plumbing is full of CCP, and it is applied on the first HP pass on the next car. Plus, it is inefficient. I have to use more CCP, and a lot of water (at 1.36 cents per gallon) to move the product. I would rather use .15 of a good CCP instead of .20 of the same product plus .12 of water/sewer to get the same results. However, for those trying to get the driest car possible with no field mods this seems to work pretty well.


I have ordered some basic components to add low pressure drying aid to one unit. I have a Sonny's rain arch I plan to attach to the exit end of the gantry. I will use the existing wax tank, and will power the product via a flo-jet pump. My plan is to run a DT relay to the motor contactor circuit on HP wax. When the wax circuit is engaged it will break the contactor circuit. The oscillators will still move but nothing should come out. This is all theory at this point, A second option is to try something like Mark II GT units, and shoot the CCP out a few feet ahead of the gantry during the spot free pass. The idea of saving an entire pass is very appealing. I will try to keep you guys updated.
 

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
4,391
Reaction score
2,169
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
Finally got around to converting the CCP into a low pressure product on one unit. The wiring was simple and only took thirty minutes. I found a three pole dual throw relay and used it to control both the low pressure solenoid and open the motor contactor circuit. The arms oscillate because the unit doesn't know any better, but the rain arch distributes the product very well. The end result of most washes is much better than previous setup However, there is one problem. On the ten pass wash on a first generation wizard with onboard blowers it's hard to configure a recipe to work the way I want. I need two high pressure passes, one with an odd number and one with an even number, to be able to get high pressure on both ends of the car. As a result, I'm having to put this low pressure CCP directly on top of my tri color, then rinse it off with high pressure and spot free on pass eight. The products are compatible, but I'm not getting the best drying results on my best wash. This would not be a problem on 2.0s with better programming flexibility, or on freestanding dryers. The only other option is to move rocker panel to pass 2 along with second pass of presoak, but I really don't want to do that if I can avoid it.

Am I missing something?

pass1 presoak
pass 2 presoak
pass 3 rocker panel
pass 4 HP rinse
pass 5 tricolor
pass 6 low pressure CCP
pass 7 HP rinse
pass 8 SFR
pass 9 blower
pass 10 blower

I may try some stuff tomorrow just for fun, including applying CCP and SFR on the same pass to see what happens.
 

wisheewashee

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
119
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Finally got around to converting the CCP into a low pressure product on one unit. The wiring was simple and only took thirty minutes. I found a three pole dual throw relay and used it to control both the low pressure solenoid and open the motor contactor circuit. The arms oscillate because the unit doesn't know any better, but the rain arch distributes the product very well. The end result of most washes is much better than previous setup However, there is one problem. On the ten pass wash on a first generation wizard with onboard blowers it's hard to configure a recipe to work the way I want. I need two high pressure passes, one with an odd number and one with an even number, to be able to get high pressure on both ends of the car. As a result, I'm having to put this low pressure CCP directly on top of my tri color, then rinse it off with high pressure and spot free on pass eight. The products are compatible, but I'm not getting the best drying results on my best wash. This would not be a problem on 2.0s with better programming flexibility, or on freestanding dryers. The only other option is to move rocker panel to pass 2 along with second pass of presoak, but I really don't want to do that if I can avoid it.

Am I missing something?

pass1 presoak
pass 2 presoak
pass 3 rocker panel
pass 4 HP rinse
pass 5 tricolor
pass 6 low pressure CCP
pass 7 HP rinse
pass 8 SFR
pass 9 blower
pass 10 blower

I may try some stuff tomorrow just for fun, including applying CCP and SFR on the same pass to see what happens.

I would be wary of just one HP pass. That cannot possibly be getting cars clean. Maybe combine the rocker. Try this and let me know how it works

PASS1 Presoak-Tire
PASS2 Presoak-rocker panel
PASS3 HP wash bug
PASS4 HP wash bug
PASS5 Tri color
PASS6 HP clear coat
PASS7 Med clear coat
PASS8 Spot Free
PASS9 Blower
PASS10 Blower
 
Top