compressor shutting off

[Jimmy Buffett]

My compressor keeps shutting itself off. When I hit the reset button it comes right back on. I don't see anything wrong. Any suggestioons as to where to look? I don't even know who to call to look at a compressor.
Thx
J

 

[Greg Pack]

My compressor keeps shutting itself off. When I hit the reset button it comes right back on. I don't see anything wrong. Any suggestioons as to where to look? I don't even know who to call to look at a compressor.
Thx
J

Are you talking about the thermal overload on the compressor motor, a little red button? What brand/ size compressor is it?

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

It is a Curtis 3hp 3phase. I talked to Curtis and they said it is likely pulling too many amps. It's about 11 degrees here, that may be part of the problem. I turned down the pressure settings and it is now cycling. It's snowing now so I have no business but we have 7 pretty decent car washing days ahead of us. I have a Ryko softgloss that uses a lot of air so I'm dead in the water w/out my compressor. I have an electrician on his way now to check the amps. The guy at Curtis was very helpful but speaking of electricity to me is like trying to teach your dog a card trick! I just don't get it.

 

[car washing systems inc]

There is a check valve in the side of the tank from the head to the tank ,if it is stuck open it will put air pressure from the tank on the head that is can not over come on start up and could trip it out. or it could be the motor is just going bad.

 

[MEP001]

It could very well be the cold. We have an Ingersoll-Rand that would trip its thermal overload because the oil would get too thick on the coldest days. Before I replaced the motor with one that it should have had to begin with, I'd leave the drain valve cracked so it would kick on every five minutes or so which would keep it from tripping. You may also try a thinner synthetic oil.

 

[Fatboy769]

This may be a dumb question, but isn't your air compressor in the equipment room? If it is, I don't see what the temp outside would have anything to do with it. If your equipment room is that cold, your going to have more problems than just an air compressor that keeps shutting off.

 

[MEP001]

This may be a dumb question, but isn't your air compressor in the equipment room? If it is, I don't see what the temp outside would have anything to do with it. If your equipment room is that cold, your going to have more problems than just an air compressor that keeps shutting off.

Most of us don't heat the equipment room above what it takes to keep things from freezing. Anything more would be unneccessary other than human comfort. When the I/R keps stalling it was only in the 40's outside, probably only 10? warmer in the room, but there's a vent that blows right on the compressor pump.

 

[bruno]

If your talking little red button on motor I had mine do that for months, every so often. Eventually had to replace the motor.

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

I turned up the little dial that will allow it to draw a little more amperage. It seems to be ok. It's in the mid 40's in the equp. room. I did turn up the heat a little bit. I had 1 of those pressure activated "spitters" on it that wasn't working but that was not my problem. I may need new belts. How often do you guys change belts? By having a Softgloss machine I would assume that my compressor cycles a lot more times that people only using air only for foam and doors.

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

BTW it has a 3 phase Baldor motor. That thing should last forever don't you think?

 

[bruno]

I had the same, 3 Phase 5 hp motor (probably a little bigger compressor) I think it was a Baldor or what every came with the compressor. Went on for about 6 months, would blow red button about once a month or two. When temperature got colder was blowing quite often, probably due to lots of use. I had Ingersoll come out and look at it for me and they put a new motor on. Said with the cost to rebuild it was better to go new, which I agree. New motor took care of the problem. This was the red button on the motor not the regulator switch.

 

[RykoPro]

As always, the best way to check a motor is with a good clamp on ammeter. Check each leg, check it on startup (in-rush current is much higher) and check it running with a load.

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

We're running them thru the auto as fast as we can today and it is working ok. I just felt the motor and it was a little warm while it was running but I'm really not sure if that is normal or not. The guy at Curtis talked like that motor was fairly indestructible.

 

[RykoPro]

It is normal for a motor to be warm when it is being used. The only way to know if it is not operating properly is to take amp readings. Most air compressor "motor starters" use changable "heaters" to trip the overload. These bi-metal strips bend at certain temps to set the correct trip point of the overload. Instead of turning the amp trip adjustment setting, like on your Softgloss overloads, you have to remove and replace these strips of metal. I once had a problem were the wrong heaters were installed by the Curtis dist./man. all I did was change them out and no problems since. As stated in previos posts, there are many factors that can cause an overload to trip, including the overload itself. You first have to see if the motor is even drawing too many amps.

 

[DJGall]

My Devair compressor is on its last leg....main bearing on the compressor pump are howling. Where did you guys buy your Curtis compressor? I have been watching them on E-bay for a couple of weeks. Good spot to buy? West Tennesse Compressor sells them out of Memphis....then another dealer whose main focus is car lifts sells them out of Ohio. Thoughts?

 

[MEP001]

"Best" is rather subjective - what is your main concern? Price, shipping, service? An eBay store or auction may have the best price, but the freight will be high and there will likely be no help for warranty problems. It would be better to find someone local who sells them or can get them.

 

[Ben's Car Wash]

BTW it has a 3 phase Baldor motor. That thing should last forever don't you think?

No, I'm on my second Baldor motor on my Champion now in 6 years... but it's a tunnel that runs everything on air (foamers, cta's, rollers, retracts).

If you are pressing the RED RESET on the thremal overload, your drawing more amps than the motor can handle. This can be several problems... but it can take 6 months until the motor fails. As others stated the oil viscosity can place enough of a strain on the crank case to "stall" the pump and strain the motor increasing the starting amps. Or your contactor might just be worn. I'd check those first (cheeper than a $450 motor)... and the belt (Does it squeal?). I've had to replace all of these so far in 6 years including the reset (they have a new design now).

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

Mine is nearly 5 years old and has had very little done as far as maintenance. The belts don't squeal nor do the bearings. There is some but not a lot of play in the belts. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to tighten or replace them.
My Curtis came with the car wash package. I would guess that shipping would be brutal on one. I'd look for 1 I could drive and pick up. They have a "contact us" tab on their website if you are looking for a disty.

 

[ted mcmeekin]

If you lay your hand on motor and can keep it there, it is 140 deg or less which is normal.

Ted

 

[Jimmy Buffett]

I had it checked with an amp meter. It's pulling 10 but I cranked it up to 12 and have had no problems since. It is warmer than I care to rest my hand on however. I have a softgloss which will use considerably more air than most autos but not as much as Doug's tunnel. Do you think I should start shopping for a new motor to have on hand? To be honest I never paid any attention to how warm it was until it kicked off that day.
Thanks