Jim H.
Member
I would like to start using my RO reject water. Would some of you share your ideas on how to do this? I figure there is know since in reinventing the wheel. Thank you
I have been thinking for a few days about doing what MEP had just mentioned(pipeing a new holding tank to my existing automatic holding tank with its own float above the existing float)I don't understand all of these over-engineered ways of using the reject water. If your auto pumping plant is in the eq. room it should be as simple as buying a tank and setting it up on blocks to get it above the pump inlet. When I did it on my old Mark VII Rotoclean it cost me the price of a tank and a couple of hours for a plumber. Here is what I did,
Elevated a 300 gallon tank next to the pumping plant.
Disconnected the fill from the original tank and routed it to the manhole of the new tank.
Moved the fill and low level switches to the new tank, putting the low level switch a couple inches higher than the outlet fitting, the fill switch about a foot higher. Disregard the fill switch reference if you will be using a float valve. This leaves room for about 200-250 gallons of reject water to be dumped on top of the water already in the tank.
Plumb the outlet of the new tank to the HP pump.
You're done!
Everyone seems to be hung up on using the existing supply tank which just complicates the $h!+ out of it. Ignore the old tank and life will be much easier...been there, done that.
I dont think its over engineered at all. and I suppose I should have mentioned we use this for 750 -1500 gal tank. I guess if your only saving and reusing 250 gal why put any effort into it.I don't understand all of these over-engineered ways of using the reject water. If your auto pumping plant is in the eq. room it should be as simple as buying a tank and setting it up on blocks to get it above the pump inlet. When I did it on my old Mark VII Rotoclean it cost me the price of a tank and a couple of hours for a plumber. Here is what I did,
Elevated a 300 gallon tank next to the pumping plant.
Disconnected the fill from the original tank and routed it to the manhole of the new tank.
Moved the fill and low level switches to the new tank, putting the low level switch a couple inches higher than the outlet fitting, the fill switch about a foot higher. Disregard the fill switch reference if you will be using a float valve. This leaves room for about 200-250 gallons of reject water to be dumped on top of the water already in the tank.
Plumb the outlet of the new tank to the HP pump.
You're done!
Everyone seems to be hung up on using the existing supply tank which just complicates the $h!+ out of it. Ignore the old tank and life will be much easier...been there, done that.
Thanks for your help MEP, Could you tell me where I would purchase all these parts and exactly what kind of pump your talking about? What type of float valve would you use?For that type of "spell check," you'd need to write in Microsoft Word that can also check grammar. You spelled "know" and "since" correctly, and a simple spell-check wouldn't have caught it.
My preference is to use a storage tank and pressurize the water to a second float valve in the automatic tank that's higher than the one on city water. You'd only need a pump with bladder storage, a tank, a float valve and a low-water cutoff switch that will disable the pump if the tank is empty. You'd want an overflow on the storage tank so if the pump fails it won't make a mess.
Sorry for my inexperience but could you tell me the purpose of the bladder?I believe I found the Arbor frieght ITEM 47906-1VGA with 5 gallon tank connected to it.With a bladder tank you'd use the same type of float valve you're already using. Harbor Freight has a bladder tank and stainless steel pump assembly for $99 that you just plumb in and out and plug in. The float switches you can get almost anywhere - the one I like is a blue and yellow one that has contacts for both close on rise and close on drop. We used to get them from Specialty Equipment.