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I just kicked the bucket!

TEEBOX

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Well I decided after 8 years of prepping cars with a soap bucket and hogs hair brush, I decided to kick the bucket!

I juiced up the prep guns with a hi ph alkaline presoak. It gives a nice coverage and the customers have not complained. Well I guess the ones that come back haven't. I use a low ph shampoo in my shower head. I also have a presoak arch.

My question is since I'm spraying the vehicles with a presoak is it overkill to use the presoak arch.

Your thoughts! Also, I still use the hogs hair brush for those hard to clean rears of SUV's with the visor. Any suggestions from those who prep?

Thanks
 

rph9168

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Hopefully you are diluting the prep soap quite a bit. I would not recommend you stop using the presoak arch. The prep gun is to perform the task it is made for - prepping. Covering the entire vehicle should not be necessary unless it is really bad. Most prepping should hit the spots the look like they need extra cleaning - usually the fronts and backs and sometimes the side. especially the rocker panels.
 

KwikClean

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Since you juiced up the prep guns (even if you hadn't) make sure you're not "over-prepping" or putting an excess amount of chemical on the car prior to the 1st presoak arch. In essence, that presoak now is being diluted with what is already on the surface of the vehicle; taking away from some of the cleaning strength that's present in the presoaks' detergent.
 

rph9168

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Not sure I agree with that. If you were not putting any chemical in your prep gun that might be partially true. If you are applying a presoak product in your prep gun you would not be diluting the cleaning strength of your presoak arch. In fact you would probably be enhancing it a bit. The only way it might be valid was if you were applying an alkaline product in your prep gun and an acid in your presoak arch or vice versa. Even at that, unless you were applying the solution at a high dilution you probably would only have a minimal effect on the presoak arch.
 

Earl Weiss

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Now that you have kicked the bucket, the next step is to kick the prep guns.

Bill Consolo was a big advocate of prepping for areas like between outside SUV spare tires and the body or other hard to reach spots. But prep on every car? Why, unless it's to enhance perception of value or not enough room to add more equipment.?
 

TEEBOX

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Now that you have kicked the bucket, the next step is to kick the prep guns.

Bill Consolo was a big advocate of prepping for areas like between outside SUV spare tires and the body or other hard to reach spots. But prep on every car? Why, unless it's to enhance perception of value or not enough room to add more equipment.?
You hit on the head! To Enhance perception of value. I have enough room to add more equipment. Thinking about more high pressure equipment and another set of wraparounds.
 

Express

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I'm glad to hear that you kicked the soap buckets. I'm still trying to kick the buckets my self to save on labor, especially this time of the year when it gets busy.

If you don't mind me asking what type presoak are you using in the prep guns, does it have a solvent like d'limonene?
 

TEEBOX

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I'm glad to hear that you kicked the soap buckets. I'm still trying to kick the buckets my self to save on labor, especially this time of the year when it gets busy.

If you don't mind me asking what type presoak are you using in the prep guns, does it have a solvent like d'limonene?
I use a high alkaline presoak. I do not believe it does have that solvent in it.
Just concentrate on the hard to reach areas that the equipment may miss.
 

Express

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I use a high alkaline presoak. I do not believe it does have that solvent in it.
Just concentrate on the hard to reach areas that the equipment may miss.
Not to be nit picky but who is your chemical provider, what is the chemical called?

What ratio do you use for the prep guns, 1:200 or etc?
 

steve everett

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If you truly kicked the bucket, you definitely want to keep your presoak arch on. The high pH chemical in your prep guns will help to a certain point, but the true cleaner is going to be the presoak arch. High pressure soap has impingement, but does not offer dwell time. You definitely don't want to have the chemical strength too strong, or you will negatively affect your drying. You won't be able to rinse the soap off and you will residual chemical into your dry aid application.
 

TEEBOX

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Ok, but what equipment should I get to help getting the front bumper and grill at the license plate clean. Also the back of the vehicles do not get very clean. I have slowed the conveyor speed and have a set of Hanna wraparounds and it seems not able to do the job. Most of the cleaning seems to be mostly for the sides of the car. My carwash consists of presoak arch using a high ph, foam shower heads with lo ph shampoo, high side wraps, foam top brush, underbody flush, high pressure oscillators for lower body, wraparounds, triple foamers, mitter curtain, clearcoat/drying aid arch, and final rinse arch. 20 feet of drip space then blowers. All my equipment is Hanna. Your suggestion well be helpbul to address this situation.
 

Earl Weiss

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I think a second set of wraps would make a lot of difference.

Not familar with Hanna Wrap efficiency and it may have changed over time. 2 sets of AVW or Sonny's do the job for me.
 

dlc95

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Teebox, you're in the metro Detroit area? Have you checked out Zax in Auburn Hills, on Opdyke? I can't remember the last time I saw a prep brush there, and they do a great job - with no towel drying either. Are your Hannah wraps the flex style, or the classic design?
 
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