BT9 IDX Timer in my combo vacs acting up.

[cwguy.com]

Well, the new LED modules have mostly failed. Displays are worse than the originals. Any ideas why they failed so quickly? Time for new timers?

What exactly are you talking about? Not as bright.... not lit at all? Have you tried switching the displays around? From known working locations? I would think it would be just certain locations with an issue not the whole display?

Like a power or driver issue for one matrix display?

 

[Doyle Vacuum]

Actually, I think Mike Walsh was correct.

I believe there is a potentiometer somewhere on the board that controls the output voltage for the LED sockets. The voltage needs to be set to the correct level to insure proper function (and life) of the LED's. For example, the high-output LED's require a different voltage setting than the standard LED's.

If the replacement LED's failed relatively soon, I would suspect there was a voltage problem. It might be that this could be adjusted to the proper level, or it might be that either the potentiometer or another component on the board is bad, thus causing a faulty voltage output to the LED's.

Do what you want as far as repairs are concerned. I was just offering my input based upon a history of using many IDX timers and components in our machines over the years. In any case, I would call them and get some tech support - they have always been very helpful to me and to my customers.

 

[MEP001]

I believe there is a potentiometer somewhere on the board that controls the output voltage for the LED sockets. The voltage needs to be set to the correct level to insure proper function (and life) of the LED's. For example, the high-output LED's require a different voltage setting than the standard LED's.

I still don't see how replacing the modules with the identical item would necessitate readjusting anything since the driver is already adjusted correctly for the modules.

We never heard back from jprb as to whether he replaced all the modules or just a couple.

 

[cwguy.com]

I still don't see how replacing the modules with the identical item would necessitate readjusting anything since the driver is already adjusted correctly for the modules.

It wouldn't.... also wouldn't the potentiometer need to be after the display driver chip according to this theory? Or maybe the display chip can cover a wider range of currents?

Again I'm not sure if my timer is the exact board (I believe it is?) and I am not a professional component identifier.... but I don't see a potentiometer? The yellow things are inductors.

Also no one ever argued that idx couldn't fix an idx timer? How does everything always get bent around on this forum?

 

[mjwalsh]

Actually, I think Mike Walsh was correct.

If the replacement LED's failed relatively soon, I would suspect there was a voltage problem. It might be that this could be adjusted to the proper level, or it might be that either the potentiometer or another component on the board is bad, thus causing a faulty voltage output to the LED's.

Do what you want as far as repairs are concerned. I was just offering my input based upon a history of using many IDX timers and components in our machines over the years. In any case, I would call them and get some tech support - they have always been very helpful to me and to my customers.

The possibility of another component that went bad for whatever reason causing JPRB 's future LEDs voltage issue was spot on! A lot of times there are domino effects when it comes to electronics ... based on mine & many other people's common shared experiences. Very reasonable & very understandably put forth by you also.

Thanks Doyle Vacuum. For some to question yours & my motive for offering assistance ... that clearly points towards a need for improvement on their part. I met Mike Oliver from IDX in person & even had the opportunity to be at the same dinner table (Des Moines Heartland) with him with follow-ups via telephone. I agree that IDX ... like the rest of us ... they are not perfect ... but from experience they have always made an extra effort to be fair & helpful. Come to think about it, before I ever talked to Mike Oliver live & in person, he was one of the better regulars on this specific forum ... that was founded & nurtured by Bill Pitzer ... who I also had the opportunity to have dinner with ... when he stopped by here in Bismarck to both investigate & thoroughly check me out! Oh well OK to set the record straight ... it was mainly a friendly & worthwhile tour & visit. John from Whale a Wash in Fargo had a similar experience with Bill.

Mike Walsh www.kingkoin.com

 

[MEP001]

No one questioned your MOTIVE, ffs. Trying to claim the timer needs to be recalibrated whenever the display modules are replaced is like saying the wall switch needs to be adjusted every time you replace a bulb.

jprb still hasn't posted back whether he replaced all the modules or only a couple.

 

[Doyle Vacuum]

Man... this forum has almost become toxic... too bad!

I just called IDX to discuss this with them, and here is what they said:

1. There is a potentiometer on the board (see the little, off-white, octagonal shaped part with a slot in the top, just to the right of center on the top of your board - that's it). The potentiometer is factory set to control the voltage/current output to the whole board, not just the LED's, so it is important that this is properly set. It's original factory setting is indicated by a red mark on the side of the potentiometer.

2. Any replacement LED's must be an exact match to the original LED's installed on the board... some LED's might look right, but they must be an exact match in terms of voltage and amperage rating as well.

3. Another component on the board could be the cause of the problem and be faulty. You could have a damaged LED driver (or more than one), or you could be having a problem with the power supply on the board, or it could be something else.

I never indicated that replacing the LED's required that any adjustments be made. I suggested that because he had replaced the LED's and they still were not functioning properly, that he might need to adjust the output of the potentiometer or consider that another component on the board might be the root cause of his problem.

Good luck

 

[cwguy.com]

Your exactly right.... Everyone knows everything and doesn't share anything or read other people's post. Mep1 at least was sharing useful knowledge.

I thought that piece was a cheap stand off they used.... My bad! I had another picture at an angle and it is one.

 

[MEP001]

2. Any replacement LED's must be an exact match to the original LED's installed on the board... some LED's might look right, but they must be an exact match in terms of voltage and amperage rating as well.

It has already been confirmed, even before your first post, that the replacement display module was an exact match. That should have rendered the whole discussion about calibration moot before it even started.

3. Another component on the board could be the cause of the problem and be faulty. You could have a damaged LED driver (or more than one), or you could be having a problem with the power supply on the board, or it could be something else.

It could also be that jprb only replaced some of the display modules on one timer, as I tried to make known would cause premature failure of the new ones. Since he has not confirmed that he did or didn't, there was no reason for the discussion to go beyond the first suggestion of calibrating the timer to the new modules.

 

[mjwalsh]

I too am interested if our friend JPRB did actually replace all the LED modules for the timer before powering it up after inserting them. Ideally, there would be a way for some of us to ... in house ... with a multimeter to be able to verify at strategic test points within the board if the components leading to the LED Section were all functioning properly.

Mike Walsh www.kingkoin.com

 

[cwguy.com]

I actually agree with you also Mike! I think idx should post a manual that actually has troubleshooting that doesn't involve calling them? This is their troubleshooting for the timer now. My mother wrote number 7.

But to be fair.... this kind of troubleshooting is standard in the industry.

TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Check the instructions and wiring related to the symptoms. If this fails to provide the answer, use a voltmeter and a diagram to check every connection against the wiring diagram and to check the electrical integrity of the connections.
2. Verify that the 24VAC supply voltages, coin switch voltages, and load voltages all are at expected levels at both ends of any connecting wires.
3. If you have another operational unit, look for differences between the two. Try swapping one Little Two Timer or Big Time Two Timer for another to verify functionality of the unit.
4. Verify that the problem unit does indeed have all the options installed that are expected for the application.
5. Verify that the switches have been set as instructed in this document.
6. Try other simple tests to verify connections and operation of peripheral equipment as related to this application.
7. If you are still not able to find the problem, prepare a list of what the symptoms are, under what conditions they appear or do not appear, what you have already checked or measured, and what, if anything (and we mean anything), has changed in your system between the time it last functioned well and now. Then call IDX at 1-800-643-1109 with your list at hand and ask for application assistance. You may also email the IDX application support team at support@idxinc.com.