cleaning up mud
Member
Has anyone installed an electronic switch from KR? I hate replacing the switches with all those wires.
Bay rotary switch
- Thread starter cleaning up mud
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cwguy.com
The Eric
Are you talking about this switch (below)? I did think of installing harnesses at one time.... but then I remembered that the switches never break. 
A little off subject to this thread.... I have been having what seems to be a major problem with my 8 position Electroswitch actually seizing up. The back side of the switch is fine, it is where the rotary knob connects to the switch. There is some grease from the factory that seems to collect dirt and soap that causes the problem. Once I take off this portion of the switch, the internals spin fine. I have been using this brand switch for over 25 years and never had this problem until about four years ago. The only change I made was removing my heat tape from inside the coin box. The switches give me no indication that they are going to seize right up to the point of seizing. I have replaced at least 20 different switches over the past 4 years. Before this, I replaced only 3 or 4 over 20 years. Is there a manufacturing problem, or do you think it could actually have something to do with the heat tape removal?
slash007
Well-known member
I have the same exact problem. I just replaced two switches yesterday that were seizing up beyond repair. Usually when they seize up, I just spray them with some liquid wrench and rotate the know and that lasts for a while. Yesterday I had two that just wouldn't move no matter what. I don't have heat tape and never had, so maybe that causes issues. They are annoying to replace, but only really take about 15-20 minutes.
cwguy.com
The Eric
I am from the south..... using no heat tape and I also have not replaced a switch since January 2009..... So I guess I'm due even for down here?
They are also annoying to switch out.... Get it.... Switch? LOL That is why I liked the harness idea that kr was selling.
But I like mep1's method better using a molex connector. So are your connectors using no latch?
They are also annoying to switch out.... Get it.... Switch? LOL
That is why I liked the harness idea that kr was selling.But I like mep1's method better using a molex connector. So are your connectors using no latch?
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
Based on 2 of the last 3 posts I am kind of glad we chose to go with vandal resistant SS momentary push buttons with one of the GinSan distribution boards. To be on the cautious side ... it has been less than 2 years since the beginning of our transition from the no longer available Specialty distribution boards. Like everything else there are usually pluses & minuses but ... troubles with the switches during busy times could tip the scale in favor of the extremely durable stainless buttons - distribution board combination. Although, I assume that most of the operators on our forum can replace their front plates with a spare very quickly via a few molex style quick disconnects.
mike
I've had the same issue with the Electroswitches seizing. I replaced all the old MarkVII switches that were probably 25-30 years old just so all my wiring and switches were the same. I'm thinking that its not moisture that's getting into them from behind the panel, its water getting in from the front. Mine are always seized in the front, right behind the knob.
What I've started doing is putting anti-seize around the shaft before pushing on the knob. I'm hoping this will help keep water out. Or it may just help hold water in! Who knows!?!?! Although, I haven't had any seize up since doing this....
Getting the knobs off can be a pain too. Anti seize seems to help here too. Especially when you try to get the ltiny allen set screws out!
What I've started doing is putting anti-seize around the shaft before pushing on the knob. I'm hoping this will help keep water out. Or it may just help hold water in! Who knows!?!?! Although, I haven't had any seize up since doing this....
Getting the knobs off can be a pain too. Anti seize seems to help here too. Especially when you try to get the ltiny allen set screws out!
PaulLovesJamie
rural 5 bay SS
I've used the electronic switches from KR for a long time now, more than 10 years I think. Yes I replace them more often than the 2 or 3 stack electroswitches. More often enough that I'm migrating back to the electroswitches, but not bad enough that its a big deal.
On the subject of harnesses, they're like franks hot sauce - I put that s*** on everything. Rotary switches, coin acceptors, timers, you name it, if its at my car wash it probably has a harness. I've also made up a few conversion harnesses so I can switch out brands and styles quickly and easily.
What drives me nuts about the rotary switches is the size of the knob. Those teeny tiny little things are made for customers with dainty little surgeon fingers, its one of my pet peeves. I once saw a toyota tacoma on a dealer's lot with what the salesman called the "contractors package," everything about the interior of the truck was designed for burly guys wearing gloves - I want one! Nothing worse than having to take off my gloves in below 0 weather to peck at a microscopic radio control or open a window. Or turn the car wash rotary switch knob...
The 12 position electroswitch has a big knob, its about 3" long. Easier for my sausage fingers to grab, easy to use with gloves on. The switch itself is pricier, but its one of those small things that I think makes a difference.
On the subject of harnesses, they're like franks hot sauce - I put that s*** on everything. Rotary switches, coin acceptors, timers, you name it, if its at my car wash it probably has a harness. I've also made up a few conversion harnesses so I can switch out brands and styles quickly and easily.
What drives me nuts about the rotary switches is the size of the knob. Those teeny tiny little things are made for customers with dainty little surgeon fingers, its one of my pet peeves. I once saw a toyota tacoma on a dealer's lot with what the salesman called the "contractors package," everything about the interior of the truck was designed for burly guys wearing gloves - I want one! Nothing worse than having to take off my gloves in below 0 weather to peck at a microscopic radio control or open a window. Or turn the car wash rotary switch knob...
The 12 position electroswitch has a big knob, its about 3" long. Easier for my sausage fingers to grab, easy to use with gloves on. The switch itself is pricier, but its one of those small things that I think makes a difference.
PaulLovesJamie
rural 5 bay SS
I dont mess with taking them off, I use the same time-honored technique as many of us use for replacing vac brushes. Crush it off with channel-lock pliers and replace it with a new one.
cwguy.com
The Eric
Your right.... we should find an eaton or allen bradley rotary switch.
But there is a problem with using $20 ginsan buttons.... you need a $350-400 control board. The ginsan board is also dipped in epoxy like stuff and the Coleman board is just shielded with a ss box. (The Coleman box uses a storm keypad.) I also believe a standard ginsan meter door does come with a heater btw..... Maybe 2? One just for the controller?
I am not really sure the ginsan setup saves any time on maintenance? I have seen and touched one in real life and discussed it with people. I also saw the older model.
But there is a problem with using $20 ginsan buttons.... you need a $350-400 control board. The ginsan board is also dipped in epoxy like stuff and the Coleman board is just shielded with a ss box. (The Coleman box uses a storm keypad.) I also believe a standard ginsan meter door does come with a heater btw..... Maybe 2? One just for the controller?
I am not really sure the ginsan setup saves any time on maintenance? I have seen and touched one in real life and discussed it with people. I also saw the older model.
slash007
Well-known member
I got lucky this week and was able to take off a couple of the knobs, but usually I just have to break them off and put new. I use the kind that have two small screws, not the knob that comes with the switch.
MEP001
Well-known member
I prefer the all-plastic ones that come with the switch because you can crush it to get it off, plus it's a little bigger. Have you ever had to remove the type with two screws when you don't want to destroy the switch? I've had to cut and/or drill them to get it off, even after putting something on the shaft to keep it from rusting on.
slash007
Well-known member
True, but I usually throw the switch away at that point anyway, so I don't mind breaking the shaft. I used the knobs that came with the switch for a while, but they would always come loose often and even when they were tight, they had too much play. The knobs with the double screws are very tight and precise which makes selecting easier.
MEP001
Well-known member
If I hadn't gotten some bad decals that I had to keep replacing, it wouldn't have been a big deal.
It takes a really good screwdriver to get the set screw in the plastic knob tight enough that it won't work loose. The ones with the magnet on one end and a clip for your pocket will twist the blade off before you can get it tight enough.
It takes a really good screwdriver to get the set screw in the plastic knob tight enough that it won't work loose. The ones with the magnet on one end and a clip for your pocket will twist the blade off before you can get it tight enough.
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
Slash007 & others,
I wonder if medium duty Loctite would prevent the loosening? That worked really good for our coin slides in our Laundromat to prevent that specific screw from loosening up. Also some set screws have better gripping power at their base. We have found that in most sizes, set screws are available with different style of bases but with the same threads.
mike
cwguy.com
The Eric
LOL
A crap set from wm will do the same thing. I always seem to misplace mine and I'm purchasing a new set.... wm is the closest store. I understand I do not have this issue.... I do not even use a heater in my meter box.
But what if you moved the heater from the back of the meter box and stuck the heater on the actual door? Maybe this would help with keeping the switch working longer? If I remember correctly ginsan has 2 smaller heat pads on the actual door?
I am just assuming the normal setup is on the back of the meter box. I have seen that install before and I know Coleman's rotary switch meter boxes mounted their heaters on the back of their boxes. Again I don't use them in my meter boxes. So I am not a meter box/heater expert.
The ginsan version pictured is $70 from kr.
This is the knob we’ve been using for years from KR https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1732-rotary-knobs-black.aspx we take the screwdriver slotted set screw out of the knob and replace it with a Allen screw. You can get them tighter with the Allen screw. About every 6 months or so I take the knob off and spray the switch shaft with WD-40 and about once a year I spray WD-40 into the guts of the switch from the back. I haven’t replaced a switch in years. We do have heaters in our coin boxes.
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
On a previous post I stated that I was going to try a different thermostat with a higher temperature range so it does more than just keep the box from freezing shut. We survived the extra tough winter (not closed for a single hour less than our normal 8 AM- 10PM) without any moisture related coin box troubles. While it is just my limited North Dakota observation, I think the fact that we kept the coin boxes closer to 65° F room temperature helped. Any day now I will flip a switch turning off the 200VA 24VAC transformer that provides all the power to the thermostat-heater combos. That is since spring (on the calendar) has arrived & our car wash can be run with the overhead doors open again instead of closedLOL
.Just about every temperature range of that same style of thermostat that showed on Eric's picture is available ... just in case someone else ... in a tougher & colder climate might think it will help.
mike walsh http://kingkoin.com/USA_Deficit_Reduction.html