Ryko SoftGloss Wheel Scrubs

[DiamondWash]

Oh boy this is going to be expensive to fix from Ryko both of my wheel scrubs are not working at all, I hit the test button and they both engage (come into the bay) but don't spin very fast and both gear boxes are making a grinding sound and they do have oil in them also I can stop them with my hand the motors barely sound like they are on, I looked up the price of the gearbox per side on carwashconsigment $787.46 a piece and the motor I couldn't find there but will be very expensive I can imagine, I am thinking about ripping them out and installing the new rotary wheel blasters for the softgloss but from what I am told they are not shipping out many softglosses with this option why? or do I bite the bullet and buy new motors and gearboxes from Ryko? "Ouch!"

 

[RykoPro]

Seems very strange that they would both go bad at the same time? Try pulling the motors off and see how fast they spin without the gearbox. Then try spinning the gearbox in both directions by hand with the input shaft. Have you noticed a problem with either one recently? I have never seen everything go bad at once, try checking the voltage through the contactor and the amps of each motor leg. Also check the keystock when you pull the motor.
I checked and Ryko's list price for the reducer is $608.61. I have found Ryko to be much cheaper than Astromatic for almost every part.

 

[soapy]

Check the key that goes in the keyway on motor shaft that slips into the gear box. More often that not that is where I find the problem. You can buy motors locally much cheaper. Just match up the specs. I like to use baldor motors in place of the ryko supplied motors.

 

[DiamondWash]

I am going to have to replace both motors and the gearboxes Im not so sure about the gearboxes they sounded O.K when I spun them in both directions and the keyways are still there, can the motors be increased to a higher HP I get a lot of industrial trucks with huge tires come through the wash and the wheel scrub was originally designed to handle wheels of normal size not tractor tires, can that be the culprit to both going out at the same time?

 

[RykoPro]

The common factor of both brushes is the contactors. I would check the points of both contactors (CK60 and CK61). One set turns the brushes in one direction and the other contactor turns the brushes in the opposite direction. I would stick with the 1 hp motors.

 

[DiamondWash]

Got my new motors for my wheel scrubs today went to look at the wiring and man this is going to be fun, Also I have two questions while I am here: 1. Can the counterweight for the top brush be adjusted? seems to be a little too agressive while on the hood and roof. 2. How or Can you test the solenoids on the Signature series self serve with the handheld? I called Ryko and nobody really could tell me anything but that the tech who had knowleadge of that is no longer there and basically to just replace the foaming brush solenoid.

 

[RykoPro]

The wiring is the same as any other motor, if you need help, let me know. The top brush must be set properly in order for the top brush interupt (the system that keeps the brush from dropping into pickup beds)to work properly. The weight of the brush dry must be set at 15 to 18 lbs. The crush should be set at 6" to 10". The crush refers to the length of the brush that is bent and folded when making contact with the vehicle surface. I have been very busy and will have to check into the sig series question.

 

[Gabriel]

I hope you were able to switch to Baldor motors. We changed ours out after 4 or 5 Ryko motors and they last many, many times longer. Almost none of them have ever gone out. 4 Ryko motors in one year versus 1 Baldor in 9 years. Just a quick comparison based on our actual experience.

 

[RykoPro]

Gator,
You burned through 4 Ryko motors for the same device in one year? Was this for the wheel scrub? I have never heard of anything like this before and I been servicing hundreds of Ryko's for over 18 years. Were they the silver US motors without the fan, with the fan or the newer green motors? How many cars is this machine washing a month?

 

[RykoPro]

Steve,
With the signature series you can force outputs with the hand held or the programming keyboard on the front of the cabnet. 90% of the components are not controlled by the PLC. Most are controlled directly from the coinbox selector switch. Who did you speak with at Ryko, was it a local tech or customer service?

 

[Gabriel]

Ryko Pro, we burned out Ryko motors on side blasters, drive motors and gear boxes on old gantry 2001 automatics, in the pump room, and at about every location a motor is attached except for the main Hi pressure motor and pump. Those have been durable and reliable. We also replaced every Starite motor in the complete SS set up. Made conversions to Flojets, Baldors, and eventually burned out all usable remaining motors from the old 2001 Gantry units and Soft Gloss. We replaced most everything with Baldor motors as they went bad. Sevaral years ago we converted to the more than excellent new OHD Automatic that Ryko produced. With the new 2001 Ryko OHD we have had several years of almost perfect operation. It is an excellent Automatic and a pleasure to own.

 

[RykoPro]

Ryko Pro, we burned out Ryko motors on side blasters, drive motors and gear boxes on old gantry 2001 automatics, in the pump room, and at about every location a motor is attached except for the main Hi pressure motor and pump. Those have been durable and reliable. We also replaced every Starite motor in the complete SS set up. Made conversions to Flojets, Baldors, and eventually burned out all usable remaining motors from the old 2001 Gantry units and Soft Gloss. We replaced most everything with Baldor motors as they went bad. Sevaral years ago we converted to the more than excellent new OHD Automatic that Ryko produced. With the new 2001 Ryko OHD we have had several years of almost perfect operation. It is an excellent Automatic and a pleasure to own.

The side blaster or "prep wash" ocillator motors did only last about one year, being mounted low and taking in lots of water took its toll. They now use a differant type of motor that lasts much longer. Same thing with the old 2001 gantry, drive motors and gearboxes did not last (Ryko quit making that machine this past year). We only had two in the state and the one I took care of was mounted less than one inch from each side wall, I believe this contributed to the shorter than normal motor/reducer lifespan. I am not a big fan of sta-rite either.
We very rarely replace brush motors on the softgloss, voyagers or ultra cleans. Drive motors for these three machines normally last around 4 to 5 years (many times even longer).
I am glad to hear you like the OHD/Radius. As a tech, I like the Softgloss, if you take care of it, it will run for many years with almost no down time.