Thinking of reclaiming my ro reject, any ideas????

[Edie011]

Any help on plumbing and set up would be great? I was thinking a barrel on a stand higher than the rinse tank using only gravity with a float that's higher on the water than my pressurized city water, city water would kick on when the reclaim couldn't keep up or it ran out.

 

[pgrzes]

thats what I do. I have 2 55 gal drums up in the attic 3/4" line down to a float valve in the rinse tank, and a 3/4" overflow line into the rinse tank. When that overflows it just goes into auto bay. but I use as much as possible.

 

[Edie011]

thats what I do. I have 2 55 gal drums up in the attic 3/4" line down to a float valve in the rinse tank, and a 3/4" overflow line into the rinse tank. When that overflows it just goes into auto bay. but I use as much as possible.

Never even thought about the attic!

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Check out this thread.

http://www.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?7720-Reject-Water/page2&highlight=reject

The link takes you to the second page in the thread. Click to page one to see the illustration.

If your IBA tank holds nothing but rinse water, it is much simpler to not use it at all and use only the reject tank. The dumping from this tank to that tank requires more plumbing, valves, and whatnot, resulting in more things to maintain. Don't get hung-up on using the original tank unless it is absolutely necessary.

 

[wash4me]

Check out this thread.

http://www.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?7720-Reject-Water/page2&highlight=reject

The link takes you to the second page in the thread. Click to page one to see the illustration.

If your IBA tank holds nothing but rinse water, it is much simpler to not use it at all and use only the reject tank. The dumping from this tank to that tank requires more plumbing, valves, and whatnot, resulting in more things to maintain. Don't get hung-up on using the original tank unless it is absolutely necessary.

I used my original tank. I put a second tank beside the first tank at the same exact level with a 2 inch line between them. It did work but the space the second tank takes up is annoying and the 2 inches not quite big enough so the fill valve cycles on and off three or four times before it fills the tank. I'm going to start over using one tank for the whole works and mounted up on the ceiling.

 

[Edie011]

My wash just doesn't do the amount of cars that some of your washes do, I'm thinking 55 gallon drums in the attic will be my best bet.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Tank size is really not that important, regardless of how many cars you wash. Reject is usually used as it is produced, so 55 gallons would probably be fine. Make some overflow provision so when the rare instance pops up you won't have a big mess.

 

[Jeff_L]

Don't know why you haven't done it yet.

I keep my RO reject upstairs in 7 x 55gal drums, on their sides tied together with 2" PVC pipe and feed my automatics with it for rinse water.

 

[mjwalsh]

My wash just doesn't do the amount of cars that some of your washes do, I'm thinking 55 gallon drums in the attic will be my best bet.

Edie011 & others,

http://www.onlineconversion.com/waterweight.htm

Just a heads up based on the above calculator: 55 gallons of water weighs about 458 pounds. Make sure your specific attic structure can carry that kind of weight without potentially doing some long term damage to any part of your structure. We had hired a very reputable proven structural engineer when we went up with our second story above our laundromat. He was very firm in insisting that we did not put water tanks up in the specific truss system attic area designed for our specific building.

Since we have an inside enclosed bay that never freezes next to our equipment room we have considered possibly mounting a RO reclaim tank horizontally up higher than our other small tanks with some stainless steel support from the floor. We will not do it until we resolve potential technicalities going to the small tanks that Specialty Equipment put in for our six self service bays ... no automatic wash bay. I have thought about somehow teeing into a pipe that is most likely to draw the most water for our facility & have the tank only empty then into that flow. I am not sure how the cV of a needed check valve will affect the drawing of water from the reject tank. If I can go into the said pipe ... I am pretty sure the reject water tank will rarely overflow. Since the reject water tank would be in the closest car wash bay ... I do not see a need for a float valve ... just an over flow port. I am hoping no pump will be needed & the tank will not have to be higher than the highest point of pipe that it will be tapped into. Water bills have been greatly increasing lately in our area.

mike walsh www.kingkoin.com

 

[Jeff_L]

Good point about the weight Mike. I should've added that we added angle iron below the 55gal dorms and tied them into the brick wall to be safe.

 

[Waxman]

I plumbed my reject line to a 250 gal. tote. I used a Little Giant pump inside tote to pump reject into touchfree wash HP pump tank.

The Little Giant pump has a low cutoff float switch and a second float inside the HP pump feed tank.

works for waxman

 

[Kari_L]

I plumbed my reject line to a 250 gal. tote. I used a Little Giant pump inside tote to pump reject into touchfree wash HP pump tank.

The Little Giant pump has a low cutoff float switch and a second float inside the HP pump feed tank.

works for waxman

I know this is a very old post, but I was hoping you could tell me what hp your little giant pump was to get the water up to your rinse tank.