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"Although" would have been more correct than "albeit."

It's probably from cavitation, which would mean the retainers are good to use again.

Whoever sold the locks should be able to make copies from the number. I have a device that can decode the key and can cut new ones, but it was about $100. The keys will cost about $3 apiece. A lot of locksmiths can make copies too.

I hope it has the same segmented LED display as the 7. I've seen a lot of failures of the LED6 dot matrix display. FWIW you probably won't need to replace the harness. You can release the wires from the plastic plug and re-insert them where you need them.

Where is that pressure setting? Right off the air compressor? It's way too high since you don't have any other regulator or restriction on the liquid side.

Can't you replace just the valve "gasket" and not the whole valve? http://arimitsupumps.com/images/PDFs/model_516.pdf

Are these streaks visible as soon as the car drives out? Try running a clean car through to make sure the streaks and spots are not from something left behind by the presoak. Check your spot-free with a TDS meter. It needs to be below 30 PPM, ideally it will be under 10. You could have a bad...

First very obvious problem is that there's no regulator anywhere on the liquid side. You need to be able to control either the pressure or the flow of the liquid. I'd recommend an air regulator on the air supply line to the pump, and a gauge somewhere on the liquid line (The plugged tee on the...

Press the reset.

Nothing is going to "clean" those pennies. That's not something on them, that's the copper gone from the surface and the zinc corroding. They are going to get rejected by the CoinStar or bank counter no matter what.

The thermal overload is probably tripped. It disconnects the 24V to the bay. You most likely lost the high leg of power. Plug in the probes to the volt meter and set it to 300~ to test high and low voltage of the car wash. The meter will self-adjust to read low or high voltage. The 24V AC...

You are running three 7.2 amp motors at a total of 21.6 amps. What size is your current relay? 15 amp? With two 7.2 amp motors and one 10.2 amp motor, you are pulling probably 80 amps when the vac starts. It's no surprise that you've toasted the relay.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-50-mercury-35no-24ath-normally-open-relay-for-inductive-or-lighting-loads-24v-35-amp-1-pole.aspx Did you try anything suggested to see what is wrong?

If the vac stays running, first thing to do is unplug the timer. If it still runs, the relay is bad. If it shuts off when you unplug the timer, the timer is bad (Unlikely but it does happen). Pulling the relay will always shut off the motors no matter what, so that's no test of the problem...

That's probably a spambot trying to harvest email addresses. Those are the account's only posts here, asking for something to be sent directly to them.

The seven screws on each side of the pump. Start with one, skip two and tighten the third, repeat until you've gone around twice to make sure it's torqued evenly.

I had problems with them leaking, so I started tightening the screws. I've had no leak issues and it seems like a lot less problems with them stalling until they're five years old or more.

It's pretty complicated. https://www.powerstream.com/VA-Watts.htm#:~:text=The%20ratio%20between%20the%20VA,called%20the%20power%20factor%20PF.&text=In%20other%20words%2C%20volt%2Damps,times%20power%20factor%20equals%20kilowatts.

That filter is better than nothing, but you need something much more substantial that you can drain (or that has an auto-drain). Whenever I install a new Flojet I go around and tighten the screws as tight as I can by hand. I've had a lot less trouble with them since I started doing that.

What kind of timer and relay does it have?