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You've started several threads on this same issue. If it's the same pump, stick with one thread and list everything you have tried. You've been given advice in each thread, and none of us who have tried to help have any idea what you've done.

If it's not working, most likely the cartridge is washed out, which is why the o-ring on it is gone. The rebuild kit should come with a new cartridge. If they were made of stainless steel, they'd last forever.

There are two holes in the bracket for the pin. The bottom hole in the bracket should be farther from the wall than the top hole to let the boom naturally lay against the wall.

It looks like the boom mount might be upside-down. The bottom hole in the bracket should be farther from the wall than the top.

For now, the simplest thing would be to rebuild or replace the PR-1000A. One of the best ways to get rid of the zero-pressure regulators is to add a holding tank.

They should have cold water plumbed to them. Those are for the rinse to be cold while everything else is hot. The reason the tank overflowed is because the check valve above where those tee in is bad.

2-stage delivers more air volume at a higher PSI. A good single-stage commercial unit rated 100% duty cycle will hold up very well and will usually cost a lot less. For the cost of a really good 2-stage unit you can get two single-stage ones and pretty much guarantee no compressor downtime.

He said single stage. Why are you so set on getting a 3-phase? Unless it's custom-built, you probably aren't going to get a 60 gallon 3-phase.

In order to build it yourself, you'd need to buy a premade box and be able to wire it yourself. If you can do this, it will be cheaper than buying a ready-made one. So you still have to answer your own question.

It could still have water in it or it's getting some with the air, but if you've cleared it out, no sign of water is coming out of the exhaust and it's still stalling it could be done or it could have a ruptured diaphragm. That will allow air through the pump instead of liquid pressure. I've...

I would not assume that. He said there's a configuration in the timer, presumably to match the count-up from the Nayax. Dixmor LED-6 doesn't have that.

You can rebuild the shuttle valve, but I don't try to repair them anymore. The kit is expensive and it's a lot of work, and it never wants to work right.

Seals and/or valve o-rings.

You can use a wireless hotspot for about $20 a month for Cryptopay.

What happened? Did you forget already?

And while you're setting it with the trigger pulled, watch the gauge. If the pressure stops going up, don't keep cranking on it. You most likely have a problem with the pump.

What are those solenoids used for?

How do you find the right lawyer?

I also tried that for six months. Didn't even slow them down. A couple times I'd see one guy at one end of the wash going through the last vac and another guy would be walking up to go through the first one again. There is no "simple" solution other than to keep them out.

It's a Fleck system, you can order every individual part for the brine valve or the whole assembly. I'd take it apart, clean it, and lube the seals with silicone lube.