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What did you change to make it go from 20 psi to 10? Is there a regulator or did you open up a ball valve more? IIRC if the system runs sub 15 psi it is not considered pressurized.

I looked at your video again and saw five gauges but you only showed two of them. I'm not sure which ones of the other three are temp and which ones are pressure.

A pressurized system keeps its pressure when off and cold. (I did more research) Where are you measuring pressure?

I read up on it some but a still little confused if it is or not cell based. If cell based then it would seem much more reliable when there is an internet outage but would require monthly or yearly fees.

If the pressure drops to zero when off then would that be a non pressurized system? Maybe there is corrosion protection in the alcohol to prevent rust on the cast iron pumps. I really want to replace this boiler and this is the time to do it with being shut down for a big remodel.

After looking at hydronic floor heating systems online they all seem so much more complex than what we have currently. More pumps and solenoid valves plus other things. Ours has only one pump for the whole system. Also when looking at non pressurized systems they all seem to be open systems...

Did you consider building one from scratch?

After doing some digging I found that the adjustment knob on the gas valve is called a "modulation knob" and is for system temperature set point. There are two different sets of temps in the manual. At set point "4" is 137F for low temp DHW but "4" is 177F for high temp hydronic heating. How...

^^^This^^^

We are currently not pressurized on our Raypak and do not get yearly inspections on that boiler. My late friend was a HVAC guru and told me that it was more efficient to run pressurized. The only disadvantage to run non pressurized that I see is the yearly inspection. I was hoping to run a loop...

https://www.afsupply.com/ibc-sl-26-260-condensing-boiler-260-input-mbh-afue-96-direct-vent-natural-gas.html Maybe this?

On boiler size I don't think we need all that big of one. Our old one is an 82% efficient 627K BTU running on about halfway on the gas valve setting. If that is truly set for only half the output (I need to verify this) then we are talking only about 257K BTU output. Factor in only needing about...

I did some research on boiler code in Ohio. They do require any pressurized commercial hydronic heating system to have a state inspection and have an ASME certified boiler. Just to clarify I called a state inspector and he said that is all correct. The under 200K BTU rule is only for domestic...

Yeah I know and have compared the two and decided to go with the PLC. I even bought a kit with an Uno, bread board and a bunch of components a while back and spent a lot of time learning the programming and making simple controls.

I'll do that and after your post about Allen-Bradley I did see they have free software and support for the micro 800 series.

Are you talking about a weeping a wand or foam gun? Injecting RV antifreeze, methanol or windshield washer fluid should keep the little bit of water from freezing after blow down. The only reason I want to do this on a foam gun is so I can dispense a triple foam protectant (ceramic) and not just...

They seemed kinda expensive compared to the basic cheaper ones I was looking at but maybe I didn't look at all their offerings. I was looking at building a blow down/antifreeze system for a self serve foam gun so I don't need anything crazy.

That is odd and something I missed. Probably not going to work. There's always something.

That makes sense and also why you spec'd out an Allen-Bradley PLC. Those were never on my radar when looking into PLCs.

Most of the tankless water heaters do not have a warranty for this application. Most state they should not run alcohol through them or be in a closed loop system. Most of the Takagi models would still have a warranty though and they do not make any actual boilers which I find those two things...