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Water lubricates the seals, except for putting the head back on the pump. That seal has seen several years of use. That's normal wear. Unless you ran it for 10-15 minutes with NO water in it at all, you didn't do that.

You didn't do that. That's just a worn out seal.

It's supposed to be non-adjustable, but one was obviously way out but still payed out too much after I bent on it. The one I replaced it with dropped in and worked. I did tighten the pivot screw to remove almost all the play on them. I've had less trouble with the old style.

In the last month I've changed three hopper switches to the new style. Two new ones of the five I ordered were defective. One did exactly what you described, the other would pay out too much.

Probably not, even if it wasn't fully primed it would still have some water in it to cool and lubricate the seals.

Mine is a 20 year old Husky 80 gallon 2-stage 7.5 HP, which is a C/H with a red tank. I'm pretty sure someone put an undersize pulley on the motor which I think has been replaced, but otherwise I don't think it's been touched. There's a water filter on it but there's never any water in it, and...

FWIW I've had a lot more trouble getting the 340 to prime than the 310, probably because of the shorter stroke. I used to take the valve cap off closest to the outlet used by the main outgoing flow and pulsing the pump on a few times. The trick I mentioned above works just as well.

If you can find a 2-pole pushbutton switch or run the switch through a 2-pole relay, you could have the "STOP" button stop the equipment and the CC count-up. You've got me thinking about this, I've been planning to add Cryptopay to a couple of bays, a couple vacs, and an electronic towel...

Hold the trigger and turn it on to a high pressure function, then turn it off and hold the trigger until flow completely stops. After 3 or 4 times it should be primed. Bad regulators don't cause pulsation. Accumulators only smooth the normal "hum" through the lines of a properly working pump...

Someone called me today and asked for help with adding a large button to end credit card charges. He's been count-down for years with his Cryptopay but wants to go count up. I had tried to talk him into using a programmable relay to end the charges when "STOP" on the switch is selected, but he...

Those are banned in a lot of cities. IMO they also look tacky.

I'm a firm believer in having the best compressor that you can afford and have room for. Both these washes have tiny rooms, one so small there would be no way to get a 60-gallon compressor in and service it in place.

Texas hasn't issued a shutdown, but several counties have including mine. Bexar county (San Antonio) apparently has said car washes are allowed to remain open. I haven't run any numbers yet, but I don't see a huge downturn in business, certainly not so bad that I won't have to dip into reserves.

The Husky already crapped out. I haven't been able to find out what went wrong, but he was at least able to get it repaired under warranty. He had to take it to a Home Depot himself since if they came out to repair it they would have seen it in a commercial use and voided any warranty. The...

Kleen-Rite's boxes are very easily pried open. There is an additional lock bar for it that should help. I wouldn't put bill acceptors in the bays unless it was in a really good neighborhood.

Most likely, since the relay you pictured requires 24V DC.

Have you considered moving the boxes to the entrance of the bay? IMO since you're adding bill acceptance you should to keep the validators from getting too wet. There are quite a few places to buy complete boxes, or you can build your own. Dralco has a fairly simple bare box.

My fiancée was at a grocery store yesterday where they have circles on the floor in the checkout lanes to mark a 6' separation and signs everywhere explaining, and she said a couple behind her with three kids who were bouncing around touching everything, and the mother crowded up behind her to...

Right, NC means the circuit is always closed, so you've basically direct-wired the power through, but that should have caused the motor to stop running when the Nayax payment went through. Have you confirmed the power coming from the Nayax unit that's meant to energize the relay coil?

I assume you're sending 24V DC to the relay? That's the coil voltage of the one you showed. Are you trying to close a circuit on power to the relay? In your first post you mentioned switching FROM NC to NO, so you would need to use the NC side for that.